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Thanks to 'Jeeper_71' I got a Rhino grill and the headlights with trim rings. These are the lessons learned from the swap to a late-model Cherokee.
The late model front valance panel is not made for round lights without fabbing and the lower sheet metal around the radiator opening has wrinkles. I picked up an almost perfect valance panel from a '69 wagoneer and did the following:
o Test fit. The earlier valance panel required a lot of the inside lower lip removed with my trusty Dremel to clear the larger late model radiator and supports. Remove any grill mounting tabs at this time by grinding-off or drilling-out the spot welds. Fill holes and paint.
o Horn relocation. Since I was putting in fog lights in the smaller holes I relocated the horns to the upper lip in front of the radiator.
o Rhino install. Before bolting-in the valance this is a good time to mount the grill.
o Valance/grill bolt-in. This went without any problems once all the above was done. The valance will bolt to all the later model bolt locations. The only fabbing is the top Rhino bolt that will require a spacer to bolt to the upper grill lip. I used hard rubber.
o Headlight buckets. The newer models use a three wire while the older round buckets use two wires coming out of the bucket with a third grounded to the inside bucket. Instead of splicing, I discided not use the older wires and drilled a 1-1/2" hole in the rear of the buckets and simply used the later model wires.
o Turn signals. No problems noted.
o Test fit with hood. Later model hood leaves large gaps on each side of the Rhino grill at the top and the peek of the Rhino does not quite look right. Solution: get early model hood.
o Early model hood. Picked-up a nice one off a '76 J-10 with the cross bar on it. I think you can use hoods up to '78 without problems as long as the version has a cross bar or an original hood from a Rhino equipped vehicle.
o Hood prep. Remove the cross bar and admire the huge holes.
Remove old latch mechanism and replace with your later model latch. bend the lip of the hood where you use your hand latch on the driver's side enough for the latch paddle to clear. You will no see the change from the outside. Drill new mounting holes for the cable release mount and zip-tie the cable to the support.
o Test fit hood. Adjust as necessary and then tighten everything down. Fill huge cross bar mounting holes and paint.
Finished. No new pictures yet, however, it looks like it was made this way. The Rhino conversion on a wide track Cherokee is awesome. Except for one neighbor asking me if it was a Rolls-Royce
everyone loves it. 'TPI Cherokee' was my insperation.
Caio
The late model front valance panel is not made for round lights without fabbing and the lower sheet metal around the radiator opening has wrinkles. I picked up an almost perfect valance panel from a '69 wagoneer and did the following:
o Test fit. The earlier valance panel required a lot of the inside lower lip removed with my trusty Dremel to clear the larger late model radiator and supports. Remove any grill mounting tabs at this time by grinding-off or drilling-out the spot welds. Fill holes and paint.
o Horn relocation. Since I was putting in fog lights in the smaller holes I relocated the horns to the upper lip in front of the radiator.
o Rhino install. Before bolting-in the valance this is a good time to mount the grill.
o Valance/grill bolt-in. This went without any problems once all the above was done. The valance will bolt to all the later model bolt locations. The only fabbing is the top Rhino bolt that will require a spacer to bolt to the upper grill lip. I used hard rubber.
o Headlight buckets. The newer models use a three wire while the older round buckets use two wires coming out of the bucket with a third grounded to the inside bucket. Instead of splicing, I discided not use the older wires and drilled a 1-1/2" hole in the rear of the buckets and simply used the later model wires.
o Turn signals. No problems noted.
o Test fit with hood. Later model hood leaves large gaps on each side of the Rhino grill at the top and the peek of the Rhino does not quite look right. Solution: get early model hood.
o Early model hood. Picked-up a nice one off a '76 J-10 with the cross bar on it. I think you can use hoods up to '78 without problems as long as the version has a cross bar or an original hood from a Rhino equipped vehicle.
o Hood prep. Remove the cross bar and admire the huge holes.
Remove old latch mechanism and replace with your later model latch. bend the lip of the hood where you use your hand latch on the driver's side enough for the latch paddle to clear. You will no see the change from the outside. Drill new mounting holes for the cable release mount and zip-tie the cable to the support.o Test fit hood. Adjust as necessary and then tighten everything down. Fill huge cross bar mounting holes and paint.
Finished. No new pictures yet, however, it looks like it was made this way. The Rhino conversion on a wide track Cherokee is awesome. Except for one neighbor asking me if it was a Rolls-Royce
everyone loves it. 'TPI Cherokee' was my insperation.Caio
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