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  #61  
Old 08-10-2019, 03:51 PM
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offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
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Join Date: May 31, 2019
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So as i'm laying under the truck, turning the crank with a socket, the #2 and #3 cylinders give me a very wet wooshy gooshy sound as they compress that I don't get from the other cylinders. Also, they then start dripping coolant down at a faster rate than before. That seems to lean me towards head gasket.... but I'm still unclear if there's any way to nail it down as that instead of a cracked head?
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  #62  
Old 08-10-2019, 04:29 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Either way the head has to come off so does it matter?

Unless you're going to scrap the motor if the head's cracked, then I guess you would save some work but it doesn't seem likely.

Are these known for cracking heads?
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  #63  
Old 08-10-2019, 09:11 PM
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jeepdan jeepdan is offline
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I don't think that they are prone to head cracking.
It's just it's 54 years of age.
And realistically, in that time span, how often would the antifreeze have been changed on schedule to keep the corrosion inhibitors fresh.
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  #64  
Old 08-26-2019, 11:45 AM
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offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
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From the looks of things after I got the head pulled, and this is no scientific evaluation, but it looks like I had leaks between cylinders 2, 3, 4, & 5. There was carbon buildup on the gasket in all three shoulder areas, so I'm sure the head gasket was toast. From the look of the intake passages, it's been leaking for awhile too. It's hard for me to tell how the cam looks, not too bad in my opinion, but I don't know jack.





The cylinder head is at the machine shop, awaiting a cleaning and diagnosis.
The guy there (probably almost 70) was really excited to see some old cast iron come through his door. He said he'd really rather work on my head than the Audi A8 that blew a timing chain at 120mph. That thing has 5 valves per cylinder! They were all bent to hell.





Anyway, I'm hoping the head is good, so I don't have to go down the path of engine swaps. I've come across a couple 2 barrel intake manifolds that I would jump on if I knew my cylinder head is good.

Here's some progress photos:

(Edit, FlIcKr sucks today and won't let me log in. Why is photo hosting so difficult?)

Last edited by offthebeatenpath : 08-26-2019 at 08:19 PM.
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  #65  
Old 08-27-2019, 02:02 PM
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offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
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As Miner_Jeepy noted in his build thread, there's a few double barrel intakes floating around on the market right now, and it makes me wonder what carbs could work with that intake?

Sounds like the Holley 2300 was the carb that came stock on the 2 barrel, what other carbs could work and how many CFM would be ideal?

Could I go as high as a 500 CFM 2 barrel Holley racing carb? What would the upside and downsides be?

Last edited by offthebeatenpath : 08-27-2019 at 02:14 PM.
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  #66  
Old 09-04-2019, 01:59 PM
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offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
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Have any of you guys utilized an ultrasonic parts cleaner in the process of your restoration/rebuild work?

I just started looking at some this week, and the idea is super intriguing.

Amazon of course has a pile of them that get pretty good reviews for what you pay for it.

https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Comme...ay&sr=8-4&th=1
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  #67  
Old 09-04-2019, 03:35 PM
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63J200atLSU 63J200atLSU is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offthebeatenpath
Have any of you guys utilized an ultrasonic parts cleaner in the process of your restoration/rebuild work?

I just started looking at some this week, and the idea is super intriguing.

Amazon of course has a pile of them that get pretty good reviews for what you pay for it.

https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Comme...ay&sr=8-4&th=1

What parts are you looking at cleaning with it? For small parts, I have a harbor freight parts cleaner that I think cost me $40 and another few bucks for the ultrasonic cleaning powder. It seems to work pretty well, imo...
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If all goes well, we can toast to accidental successes.

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  #68  
Old 09-04-2019, 03:38 PM
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63J200atLSU 63J200atLSU is offline
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Cylinder Head Reassembly

I also wanted to mention... When you go to reinstall the cylinder head, do yourself a favor and get the oil line (the one that goes to the back of the cylinder head) on the cylinder head BEFORE you put it on. I literally screamed from hand exhaustion trying to reach up in there after it was on the first time I did my head gasket... And pay it forward.
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'63 J200 Resto-mod in progress
(http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=178651)

If all goes well, we can toast to accidental successes.

I'm convinced I'm just too dumb to know that I can't restore this old truck...
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  #69  
Old 09-04-2019, 05:21 PM
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offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
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Yeah, mostly small parts, though who knows!
I'm looking at all of the cylinder head bolts, plus the manifold bolts that are all greasy and gummed up, thinking it'd be a heck of a lot easier to throw them in a bowl and walk away.

I did make a mental note about that oil line when I took the cylinder head out. Thankfully, mine is a flexible line, not a hard line, but it'll still be tricky enough to get routed back into the correct place.

In the mean time, I decided I needed to start getting rid of the rot. Cut and grind! I've been doing a bit of practicing on my sheet metal welding, and it looks like I still need more practice. Now that I have some of the old metal out, I'll practice with some of that too. It shouldn't be too bad. I'm not planning on full carpet, so I don't want it to look too awful, but I'll still probably roll some bedliner or textured paint on. Here's some progress shots:







I'm trying to work with square corners, I figure that'll be easier to patch in later on. We'll see, this is uncharted territory for me. I can sort out mechanical stuff, and I've spent some time welding, but nothing this thin.

How have you guys decided where to cut your losses on cutting out old sheet metal? How do you decided where to stop?
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  #70  
Old 09-05-2019, 07:45 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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once I had some rusty floor pans replaced,
there were no replacements, the guy formed them from sheet metal
but he mainly used 3M FUSOR adhesive to attach them.

stronger than ever before now !

dave in NC
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  #71  
Old 09-05-2019, 10:06 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offthebeatenpath
...
How have you guys decided where to cut your losses on cutting out old sheet metal? How do you decided where to stop?
When I did the floors in my last project, I did the passenger side first and kind of did what you are doing (work with square corners and cutting chunks here are there). It ended up being a giant PITA because you end up having to make a quilt worth of little patch panels to fill it all up.

When I did the driver side, I cut in a way where I only needed to make 3 rectanular'ish patch panels total: One for the kick panel (the upward sloping area behind the pedals), one for the actual floor board, and one for the trans tunnel. IMHO it is easier to fit larger panels, than lots of smaller panels. You also have less welding to do (less holes, less grinding, too) and a stronger panel.

I have only done floor panels once and am no expert so don't take my word for it.

If that were my floor board, here is how I would cut it:


I would make the green patch panel first. That holds the least weight and is good to get you in your groove. It's flat and should be really easy to make. On my Falcon, when there were spot welds, I would drill a small hole through the flange but not my patch, lay them together, weld the corners, then the spot weld holes (fill the hole with my welder), then stitch the other sides. Then do the yellow patch because it will probably need a bend toward the front, and lastly the side of the trans tunnel.

Kaiser Jeeps has done amazing work like this (I am sure you have read Sadies build, if not, read that and copy him). Same with Full Size Jeeper's 78 driver build. Copy them.
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