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Old 07-21-2017, 11:13 AM
highspdlife0224's Avatar
highspdlife0224 highspdlife0224 is offline
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wiring harness?

Anyone used one of the 21-circuit harnesses from BJs to re-wire their rig? Picked one up recently and am planning to start it this weekend but wondering how daunting it is?

Additional info: definitely a wiring newbie and it's an 84 J10
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2017, 11:50 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highspdlife0224
Anyone used one of the 21-circuit harnesses from BJs to re-wire their rig? Picked one up recently and am planning to start it this weekend but wondering how daunting it is?

Additional info: definitely a wiring newbie and it's an 84 J10

Why do you want to replace the harness? I'd suggest you fix the harness you have, unless you had a serious fire or such. Just go one circuit at a time and straighten it out. Here's an article about wiring repair in general that you may find useful - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ba...arted-1340134/
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2017, 12:01 PM
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highspdlife0224 highspdlife0224 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 18, 2009
Location: Englewood, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
Why do you want to replace the harness? I'd suggest you fix the harness you have, unless you had a serious fire or such. Just go one circuit at a time and straighten it out. Here's an article about wiring repair in general that you may find useful - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ba...arted-1340134/

To be honest, I figured it may be quicker (and safer) to just replace it entirely as the previous owner appears to have used what was at hand for his various "improvements" on the truck. I'm talking house fuses and extremely shotty wiring throughout the entire truck. Thanks for the link though! I'll definitely be browsing that.
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'20 Jeep Gladiator S
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  #4  
Old 07-21-2017, 12:28 PM
Wagoneerlover Wagoneerlover is offline
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Join Date: Jan 18, 2004
Location: Maryland suburbs
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I did my entire rig over with a 21 circuit harness from painless. (I am assuming bjs would be similiar) I have a thread on here about it with photos. (I will provide a link when I am at home on my console and not on a cell phone. If you are ok with wiring and wiring schematics it is not a bad job. Just more time consuming than anything. The other p.I.a. was getting the dash off to rewire. Additionally after separating some circuits and using the pre-wired ones on the new harness I had to add a few new relays etc.
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89 Grand Wagoneer AMC 360 (Deceased)


Upgrades

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  #5  
Old 07-21-2017, 12:30 PM
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highspdlife0224 highspdlife0224 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 18, 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagoneerlover
I did my entire rig over with a 21 circuit harness from painless. (I am assuming bjs would be similiar) I have a thread on here about it with photos. (I will provide a link when I am at home on my console and not on a cell phone. If you are ok with wiring and wiring schematics it is not a bad job. Just more time consuming than anything. The other p.I.a. was getting the dash off to rewire. Additionally after separating some circuits and using the pre-wired ones on the new harness I had to add a few new relays etc.

Awesome! I really appreciate it! Were you happy with the results?
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  #6  
Old 07-21-2017, 01:42 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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For me, it wouldn't be any faster ... but I have a lot of experience straightening out factory harnesses. Safer ... I think probably not. Anything new and untested allows unanticipated failure modes. The factory harness may have faults, but those will have been thoroughly discovered by now.

If you want to tear it all out and redo it, that's fine with me... but mostly what you are buying with a hot rod harness kit is a lot of wire of different colors, all coming to a new circuit panel. You will need to route, secure and terminate each of the circuits for the devices that you use, splicing new to old at each device. When you finish fixing the factory harness, it will already be documented by the TSM and factory wiring diagram - no additional documentation needed. If you replace with a hot rod harness, I suggest making notes and keeping the documents from the harness, your notes about terminations and the process, in a folder or notebook that goes along with the car.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #7  
Old 07-21-2017, 01:54 PM
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highspdlife0224 highspdlife0224 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 18, 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
For me, it wouldn't be any faster ... but I have a lot of experience straightening out factory harnesses. Safer ... I think probably not. Anything new and untested allows unanticipated failure modes. The factory harness may have faults, but those will have been thoroughly discovered by now.

If you want to tear it all out and redo it, that's fine with me... but mostly what you are buying with a hot rod harness kit is a lot of wire of different colors, all coming to a new circuit panel. You will need to route, secure and terminate each of the circuits for the devices that you use, splicing new to old at each device. When you finish fixing the factory harness, it will already be documented by the TSM and factory wiring diagram - no additional documentation needed. If you replace with a hot rod harness, I suggest making notes and keeping the documents from the harness, your notes about terminations and the process, in a folder or notebook that goes along with the car.

Your comment made me wonder if I might be wise t follow your advice. I suppose I'm most concerned with the amount of hacking that has occurred with the factory harness. The engine bay is a complete mess and further rationale for a complete change was the fact that if I replace everything, I would have gone through everything on the truck and eliminated any potential issues prior to them becoming issues if that makes sense? Having looked over some of the cab harness as well as the block on the firewall and it almost appears that some melting has occurred. When I get home tonight, I can post a photo or something for you folks to see. Also, I really appreciate the feedback as I'd kind of jumped to the assumption that a new harness is the best solution.
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'14 Mustang GT
'20 Jeep Gladiator S
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  #8  
Old 07-21-2017, 02:01 PM
johnsonic johnsonic is offline
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I paid a bit more to get the Z&M Jeeps harness - was pretty intact, built for waggy, with all connectors. Seemed to be modeled after an older wagoneer though & had to modify slightly. Took me about 16 hours to find & compensate for the discrepancies for an engine harness.

Will be doing dash next & will let you know how it goes.
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2017, 02:17 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Melted wires are no big deal unless there has been a real fire. To repair, you cut out the melted section and splice in new wire. Automobile wiring is all low voltage DC, and a spliced wire works just as well as the original. I'm very thorough in making splices - I use non-insulated barrel connectors of the right diameter for the wire, crimp and solder, and cover the splice with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

Not difficult if you take one circuit at a time, and refuse to be overwhelmed. The wiring looks complicated, but it's just a bunch of very simple circuits all running in the same space. You might be in trouble if you cut a bunch of wires and then had to figure out what goes where and connects to what ... but you can use the existing harness as a guide for most of the connections.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 07-21-2017 at 02:23 PM.
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  #10  
Old 07-22-2017, 11:41 AM
Wagoneerlover Wagoneerlover is offline
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Join Date: Jan 18, 2004
Location: Maryland suburbs
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I found the thread but if pictures are what you are looking for it wont be of any use to you. It looks like I got hit by the photobucket (Upgrade to better account) issue too. Also when I did my harness I purchased the proper terminals and made the wiring work with the existing connectors. I did not have to splice anything. (I guess splicing is ok if that is what you need to do) but I didnt.

I will try to find another place where I can load the photos and provide images here if I can. (Assuming I can find the photos now)
__________________
88 Grand wagoneer AMC 360 all stock
89 Grand Wagoneer AMC 360 (Deceased)


Upgrades

1. Electric Radiator Fan 10/15/11
2. Cs-144 Alt 10/1/11




(Wip)
1. TBI
2. New fuel tank
3. AW-4 Transmission
4. Aluminum condensor
5. Custom Gauge Panel
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-05-2017, 07:52 PM
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highspdlife0224 highspdlife0224 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 18, 2009
Location: Englewood, CO
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Decided to take your advice and work on the factory harness instead of a full replacement. That being said, would you be able to direct me to some solid wiring diagrams? I've got a haynes manual and another random one but they're vague at best and with the amount of hacking the previous owner did, I'm hoping you or someone can direct me to a good and complete set of diagrams?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
Melted wires are no big deal unless there has been a real fire. To repair, you cut out the melted section and splice in new wire. Automobile wiring is all low voltage DC, and a spliced wire works just as well as the original. I'm very thorough in making splices - I use non-insulated barrel connectors of the right diameter for the wire, crimp and solder, and cover the splice with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

Not difficult if you take one circuit at a time, and refuse to be overwhelmed. The wiring looks complicated, but it's just a bunch of very simple circuits all running in the same space. You might be in trouble if you cut a bunch of wires and then had to figure out what goes where and connects to what ... but you can use the existing harness as a guide for most of the connections.
__________________
'84 J10
'71 J4000
'14 Mustang GT
'20 Jeep Gladiator S
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2017, 01:43 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Location: Medford MA USA
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http://oljeep.com/

If it's not there, you'll need to buy the factory service manual for your year. The Haynes and Chiltons manuals are nowhere near as complete as the factory manual - trying to cover so many years - and contain a lot of mistakes.

If you don't like the factory diagrams, there's not an alternative.

Reprints of factory manuals are available from BJs, and there are some on RockAuto.
__________________
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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