Reliable 30 year old FSJ

[Probesport]

Mine is not only a driver, but a winter driver as well.

For me, the biggest thing that elevated my JGW to high reliability was going EFI. I also replaced every accessory - save for AC which just needed a seal kit.

New starter, alternator, water pump, brakes, oil pump, disty, and all that goes along with EFI. I also replaced all lines and hoses. For extra's I added a remote starter, keyless entry, and heated seats to make it more comfortable.

I am using aftermarket wheels but in a stock size and stockish tire. No lift. My wife has no issues driving the Jeep now - she was very leery of it when I got it. Of all my cars, I'd count this as one of the most reliable. At this point it reminds of my old ZJ - get in and go, don't worry about quirks or oddities. The only spare I keep with me is an HEI module in the glovebox. I have a bluetooth adapter for my Megasquirt and can always use my phone to adjust or view anything going on in the ECU.

[Andyr421]

Appreciate the responses

Thanks very much guys.
Honestly it is a bit daunting and exciting to know that what I am touching and troubleshooting will fit into place with previous engineers, manufacturers, mechanics' work/effort and take me 100 miles away or mess up on me on my 3 mile commute for errands.

I drive my 89 JGW 10 miles or so a week and enjoy the feeling of shutting the solid doors, starting her up, inhaling exhaust fumes, opening the air vents by pulling on a mechanical tab, sitting on corduroy + leather seats, connecting my phone to the modestly impressive sound system, and rolling out around town.

I hope to be able to get to the point where I can visually and audibly detect something wrong. So far no knocks, just electrical issues (rear tailgate was previously jerry rigged) left windows don't go up or down, power locks sometimes work.

I might need to add a bit of grease to the door locks and locking mechanism. they don't unlock lock all the time and the doors are hard to close sometimes (the latches are crooked I assume)

I need to replace the weather stripping, remove some surface rust, seal the underside, paint it(? I just want to protect the bare roof from the elements), and make it mechanically sound.

I know the belts are new, I don't know about all the hoses.

REPLACED ITEMS:

• RADIATOR
  HOSES
  BATTERY TERMINALS
  GROUND CABLE
  BELTS
  DIFF FLUIDS
  POWER STEERING FLUIDS
  REAR BRAKESHOES+DRUMS
  SHOCKS
  POWER MIRROR SWITCH
  IGNITION CONDENSOR

What does the following mean?:
my mechanic mentioned window regulator not working. what does that mean if he said the window motors were working? (FL+RL don't work, FR+RR work just slower than normal speed, sometimes need help)

Also, i was told intake manifold was leaking (air leak).


I have slowly realized I was delusional thinking I could spend 10k on her and have the equivalent reliability of my 2014 civic and a FSJ that rivals an ICON or Wagonmaster build. I do want to learn however, I watch engineering videos on youtube, scour the forums, and now I need to learn some practical tasks I can perform on my car.

I need to get over the fear that is similar to my parents and technology. If i touch something I might break it (If they click on something on a computer it will somehow break everything or if they tap the wrong things on their smartphone it will self destruct)

CHEERS
-Andy

[bufurd]

You're on the right track, don't be afraid to tear into it. Take pictures, bag and label fasteners, and one of the biggest fears and mistakes one that is learning makes is proper torque on anything you bolt back together. Even the smallest fastener must be tightened properly or it'll fall apart, learn torque values and invest in torque wrenches, inch and ft lbs. I have a friend I've been helping with various projects, and that is the biggest issues he has with his work, scared to strip or twist off a fastener. These things are very easy to understand and work on as the systems for the most part are mechanical, meaning no computer running things. I've got a 74 J20 that I've put over 100,000 miles on in that last 2 1/2 years sense rebuilt, it has been a labor of love along the way, always something that needs a little attention. But I have no reservations about taking it anywhere, I carry nothing but a few tools and the knowledge of how everything works. Good luck

[nograin]

Yup. Stay organized. Invest in a decent set of tools and a box that you can keep organized. Learning the how and why things work will get you much further down the road than simply doing a procedure. At the same time, doing the procedure yourself is the only way to get a feel for things. So do as much as possible yourself.

This is also the most likely strategy to hit your goal in that budget. The budget itself is reasonable if you know what you are doing and can do it yourself. Its not reasonable if you're paying someone, especially someone who doesn't have a lot of experience with these exact vehicles and the mods. A mechanic that is familiar with the specifics can wiz through something 2 to 3 times faster than one who is not. And this doesn't include the time to figure things out. Anything that will involve looking through diagrams, manuals, and tracing is a time killer. Most shops can't afford to have a mechanic and shop space, especially a lift, tied up while they figure out and find parts for some unusual vehicle. I mean unusual compared to the stuff they normally move in and out.

Save the budget for things you can't do and you may come in close. Everyone is different and in a different situation at different times. Over the years the big repairs I've paid a shop to do have been:
Fuel tank Skidplate and frame repairs.
Install new leaf springs.
Transmission repair.
and most recently swap engine.

In each case I made a decision based on not just my ability, but whether I had time, space, equipment and my confidence level in the shop. The last two turned out only OK requiring additional time on my part.

So here's some big things that you may not want to tackle on your own so set aside budget.
Check the frame and skid plate.
Body mounts including frame brackets an sheetmetal
Leaf spring condition (although really not complicated, just big and new good set on all 4 will be around $800 )

Get yourself a print or digital copy of the shop manual, the Haynes manual, and/or a subscription to All-data for your rig.
Poke around Tom Collin's Ole Jeep website.
Find out what you can about the exact fuel injection system you have.

PS Save that old radiator if it was the original. Most of the replacements are junk and something will fail in a year or two.

[Andyr421]

The old radiator blew, so i can't really save that one...

I will start acquiring spare parts to keep in a little bin in my trunk for those side-of-the-road repair sessions.

[Andyr421]

Leaf springs looked good, I do need to check the distributer (not sure how to do that so will do some research) and look into ignition upgrades. I want to buy volt meter to check currents on cables and see if its a bulb or corrosion at the end of the wire that is prevent something from running.

I do want remote start/locks but i think I can wait on that.

main priorities:
further inspection of ignition system, timing, FI system (not sure if its too light/lean) i will try to make the pour a bit more aggressive (previous owner told me it was adjustable with simple process)

weather seals

functioning windows

seat restoration (most of it is in good shape but I want to prevent the tears from getting worse)

[Wagoneerlover]

I have to agree with what some of the other members have said. Get your ignition, fuel etc in good working order.

Additionally reach out to some of the other members in your area. You mentioned your fear of working on these things and diving under the hood and tinkering away. This can often be overcome with some mentors/support around you as you work. Being a FSJ owner brings you into a new way of life/group that is tight knit in most places. If you can find/reach out to some of the other members in Michigan/join the mid-west FSJ group (Or whatever one is applicable to your area.) you can probably very easily get a helping hand. Many members would be willing to lend you a hand/help you to get over your fear of going over the hood for little to no money. If you were even somewhat close to the Washington D.C. area I would definitely lend you a hand.

One of my FSJ's in the past was very reliable (In fact all of them have been) But I did most of the work myself. I used to drive 600 mile round trip each weekend for a year and a half in one of my rigs and it never once broke down on me. (the Ignition Module went out once, but I had a spare) shortly after that module went bad I changed to HEI ignition and kept a spare HEI module in the rig. In my travels I encountered some Jeepers out there in southern Virginia, and they would get together and someone would order a few pizzas and some beers and they would all get together and wrench away. Sometimes they others would show up just for the social aspect and to support the person wrenching away. I remember this new guy purchased a rig and was in the same boat as you. He met up with them somehow and he had six or seven other guys who for the same beer and pizzas used to help him wrench away. He with their help, learned about his rig, lost his fear of going under the hood and he was able to take his rig from a frighteningly unreliable rig to something he was not afraid to tool around in each day or commute to work in 20 miles each way.

One final thing. You mentioned your mechanic telling you to tear the fuel injection out of the rig. There will be arguments for and against this I assume, but I would leave it in, find a mechanic who is used to working on whatever brand you have under the hood and get it working properly. Going back to a carbeurator will give you ease of work and cheaper components, but FI once tuned in and running properly will run extremely well. If it is a holly, or howell kit, I would start by contacting their tech departments and explaining the issue, maybe the chip needs to be tuned. If you did not have fuel injection already installed then sticking with a carb would probably be best. But you already have the components on the rig, they are paid for and it is running (Just not properly). Reach out to others here who have gotten fuel injection running and maybe someone is close by that can help. You mentioned not wanting to go under the hood, having a mechanic remove the fuel injection and install and tune a carb is also going to cost you money.


Get the following
1. AAA card
2. alliance of the nearby members
3. basic hand tools
4. jumper cables
5. spare ignition module
6. Cell phone for calling AAA (Assitance when stuck)
7. A competent mechanic who is familiar with these rigs and their quirks and strong points.

[Probesport]

I second that, don;t move away from EFI just because your mechanic is better with a carb.

Carb's work and they do function, but it's a rare case to find it an ideal solution, even rarer to be better than EFI. From general driving to hill climbs, EFI outshines your avg carb every day of the week. Personally, I'd get rid of my JGW before i went back.

When I got mine it had a crappy carb, to get it up and running well I threw on an Edelbrock carb and it was great while I was working out the rest of the issues. Once I was happy with it, I went EFI and couldnt be happier. It feel's like a newer Grand Cherokee but with less gearing and more torque

[babywag]

What kind of FI are you talking about here? If it's something like an old Holley analog I wouldn't keep it.

[Andyr421]

babywag,

I am jealous of your 94 caprice wagon.

I have jumper cables, a battery pack to jump the truck, and roadside assistance with my insurance provider.

i need the tools (All i have is a basic wrench and screwdrivers)

I need to learn more about the FI system and the ignition system.

I need to find a mechanic that is more experienced with these FSJs

Stay Tuned!
I'm going to drive over to the only two other GWs I've seen in the city parked. maybe I'll run into the owners.

[babywag]

Post a pic or two...and we can tell you what you have.

I wouldn't obsess on finding a FSJ specific mechanic, nothing unusually exotic on these things. Any competent honest mechanic should be able to assist you in your goal(s).
Stay away from large chain shops IMHO, try to find a local mom/pop business that's been around a long time.

These can be extremely reliable in stock form if maintained properly.
I've driven mine cross country many times w/ very few problems.

There are "upgrades" that I would do, and there are some that I would NOT do.
You will find varying opinions on the forum on them.

[Andyr421]

pics

I've been trying to post a pic! but I couldn't get the file size small enough to upload.

[babywag]

lol I meant of the fuel injection...as in what's hiding under air cleaner.
ignition @ least distributor is stock, nothing wrong w/ them.

[Wagoneerlover]

Looks like you finally got the pics up. Nice rig you have there! Having a photobucket account helps a lot but not a necessity. Photobucket and similiar sites allow you to crop and resize photos as you see fit.

From the photos you posted, cannot really see the FI system you have. We will be able to get a better understanding/view if you remove the air cleaner and snap a shot from there. (Just on first glance though it looks like you have a Throttle Body Injection system.) now just need to see if it is homebrew/DIY or one of the branded models.

Also welcome to the group!

[babywag]

I see an aftermarket aluminum intake, and what appears to be a crusty? adapter plate.