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  #1  
Old 01-15-2013, 03:20 PM
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blkwarrior blkwarrior is offline
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Deep Freeze

Well we have been under a freeze for the last few days. Last night however was the crowning event 19* at my house. Being concerned about the house and other issues I totally forgot about my waggy . For the past few months I have been wanting to get the motor flushed. Because of this I have not put any anti freeze/ coolant in it. So I just went out to take a look and possibly drive it but only to find all the hoses solid as a rock.

Am I in for an expensive ordeal or can I just let it thaw out? Any recomendations, or is it toast?
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:28 PM
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fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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Ouch. Did this with an old Rambler when I lived in Florida. It got down in the teens for 3 days and the radiator self destructed. Hope that is not the case for you.

Wait and thaw. Start and warm motor. Look for leaks around heater, radiator and all hoses.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:31 PM
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blkwarrior blkwarrior is offline
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Thanks Flint, I am hoping for the best.
I did pull the upper radiator hose and then poured some antifreeze to top off the radiator (about 1/2 gl). I will try and warm it up before the next freeze tonight.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:33 PM
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fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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Kick mama's car out of the garage before sunset.

Good luck!
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http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac
88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s with a few Evil Twin & TT's Fabworks mods
76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
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  #5  
Old 01-15-2013, 04:33 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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well

If you have some kind of heater to stick it safely under the hood I would. If it isn't hurt yet then you may be good.
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  #6  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:20 PM
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Retro93 Retro93 is offline
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If the radiator and block are frozen solid the last thing you want to do is start the engine. If no coolant is moving you will rapidly go to an overheat situation, with little to none of the heat being transferred to the radiator. As mention above, get a source of alternate heat in there to slowly thaw things out.

Good luck!
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  #7  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:22 PM
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Make sure it is completely thawed before you start it. If it is frozen in the water pump when you start the motor you will get a big surprise. I know it first hand from a BB Chevy. My chevy only pushed a couple of freeze plugs out and no other issues other than all the trashed belts and water pump from starting it frozen. It is usually REALLY hard to get freeze plugs in a motor while in the vehicle. Napa carries some that are rubber with a nut and washer. You tighten the nut and it expands to fill the hole. Worked great with no issues and you could drain the block with it before removing the water pump.
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  #8  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:44 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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The "freeze plugs" are not for freezing, but so they can get the casting sand out of the block after it's cast. "Expansion plug" is a misnomer too. So they are more properly called "core plugs." That they pop out when the block freezes is just coincidental.

The rubber core plugs are a Dorman item: http://dormanproducts.com/gsearch.as...xpansion+plugs

I'd get a space heater or electric blanket or something on that engine to try and melt the coolant before I did anything with it. If if freezes hard, it will split the block - the "freeze plugs" won't stop that. You'll end up with scrap metal. Act now.
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  #9  
Old 01-15-2013, 06:21 PM
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Dirtfarmer Dirtfarmer is offline
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19 degrees thats a heat wave, Hah! it was 3 here yesterday morning. That being said, I doubt it did any serious damage to the block, heads etc. but if your radiator froze solid that may be an issue. warm it up somehow where it sits. and see what leaks where
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  #10  
Old 01-15-2013, 07:36 PM
Pair O 79 J10 Pair O 79 J10 is offline
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Pull the belt..

off of the water pump if it is frozen to the point where it won't turn. Start the engine run it for a few minutes, shut it down let it sit for about ten minutes, do the procedure again, and again and again until the water in the hoses and radiator thaw . Used this procedure with my Wagoneer in Wasilla Alaska when I to forgot about having only water in it after a repair I did in the summer. It worked fine no core plugs lost no leaks, just don't over run it or steam will form and that's not good!......good luck..
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  #11  
Old 01-15-2013, 07:42 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pair O 79 J10
off of the water pump if it is frozen to the point where it won't turn. Start the engine run it for a few minutes, shut it down let it sit for about ten minutes, do the procedure again, and again and again until the water in the hoses and radiator thaw . Used this procedure with my Wagoneer in Wasilla Alaska when I to forgot about having only water in it after a repair I did in the summer. It worked fine no core plugs lost no leaks, just don't over run it or steam will form and that's not good!......good luck..

I'd remove or loosen the belts if I was going to try this ... don't try to drive the water pump.

Seems like it should work though.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2013, 07:49 PM
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Ha! I bet most of you wouldn't believe me if I said the high here yesterday was 17. Meanwhile, the high in Antarctica that same day was 25. This is all Farenhieght.

The low has been about -7 for the last week. We were excited for it to get above freezing for a few hours today.
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2013, 07:53 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Ha! I bet most of you wouldn't believe me if I said the high here yesterday was 17. Meanwhile, the high in Antarctica that same day was 25. This is all Farenhieght.

The low has been about -7 for the last week. We were excited for it to get above freezing for a few hours today.

Flagstaff is at what, 6000 ft? Doesn't surprise me at all. The Southwest is in the middle of a cold snap. Not a lot of precip there though.

It gets cold here too, but the weather varies. Snow, then melt. Repeat. It was 37F mid-day here ... not cold at all for this time of year.

NE is serious cold, I hear. Ever seen "Fargo?"
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2013, 08:03 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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We had -30 (yes) at Bogard Station just south of Redding last week.

I used to put a trouble light (incandescent) under the hood. It was enough to let me start the car in the morning...
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2013, 08:23 PM
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MonsterZ MonsterZ is offline
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Still sitting up here in Fairbanks and we've seen it all the way down to -50 degrees this winter, though right now we are at freezing which has made the roads a complete disaster. You should be able to pick up a couple of block heaters from a parts store for cheap. There are several kind, I'm kinda partial to the magnet type, though the ones that glue on work well also. Up here we usually place one on the block, one on the tranny pan, and one inside a battery box, then run the cords to a junction or powerstrip, zip tie the whole mess down nice and clean like, then run a blue (arctic rated) extension cord to a power outlet. Give it an hour or so and you should be just fine. Oh, and ammo cans work well for battery boxes. You should be just fine as long as your hoses were tight before you froze. The big problem up here is actually the pressure line on the power steering blowing out. Cold fluid and pumps and frozen lines trying to work under pressure, something's gotta give, and usually it's one of the crimped fittings. Good luck!
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  #16  
Old 01-15-2013, 08:59 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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I wouldn't try to start it for several reasons.

You have to be very careful not to crack the block. Heat on one side of a cylinder wall & ice on the other a minute too much can cause a crack. the heater & waiting it out is what I whould do. Really hot meeting really cold is a formula for a crack. It can work no doubt it can not work also. If I had to do that there's no way. I would heat it If it's not in the wind 2 or 3 light bulbs would work. if you do the start thaw be careful.
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360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
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If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
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  #17  
Old 01-15-2013, 09:14 PM
Pair O 79 J10 Pair O 79 J10 is offline
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I would have to say ..

The ice on one side heat on the other would not be the problem of course this is just my opinion..for what thats worth...case in point, antifreeze in say a vehicle in Alaska again...how cold is that fluid when the truck has been sitting out all night in sub zero weather? At least as cold as ice would be I would think. No, I would say the main concern is steam, if you build steam pressure in the block, then you will have a problem, because that pressure will be localized and rising ...something will give and it will be a gasket or the block. Granted this procedure is a lot more risky than your process and if the O/P has the time I say go with your suggestion. I had limited time and had to hit it , the USAF was a waitin!...LOL
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  #18  
Old 01-15-2013, 09:15 PM
aallison aallison is offline
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No way would I start a frozen motor. Not unless I wanted an excuse to buy a new motor. Get some heat on it, get it thawed out, I'd pull the lower radiator hose and drain the block. Then refill it with antifreeze and try to start the motor. But I'd never even try to start it in it's current condition.
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  #19  
Old 01-15-2013, 10:56 PM
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Don't start it (will rip the water pump impeller right off) warmed it up some how , get out the radiator presure tester and pray you did not crack the block.
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2013, 01:11 AM
Pair O 79 J10 Pair O 79 J10 is offline
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Guys I have to tell you, it's really not all that scary a thing to do. In fact it works quite well, a slow steady heat applied from "within" the motor, produces a fast steady melt. You must consider this; as long as there is ice in the block the potential for the ice to crack that block exists. Now, is it not better to get that ice out of there as quickly as you can? Heat from "inside" the motor is the fastest way....slowly heating all that iron is just that "slow". In any event my engine suffered no negative effects, drove that puppy for three years after that incident and sold it. Remember it's a JEEP, is there anything tougher?..LOL ...however he proceeds or has proceeded I'm sure it will be good to go.
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