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  #21  
Old 01-30-2013, 08:49 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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TGW has these:

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/tea...-gw-1963-1991/

They seem to have rears only. Kinda steep but if they fit properly...
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  #22  
Old 01-30-2013, 12:31 PM
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gas4blood gas4blood is offline
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Im not really worried about the "molded" corners. I figure if I take my time to make nice tight cuts and use some high quality weatherstrip adhesive, I should be fine. Not really worth spending $240 total to me to get the molded seals.
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  #23  
Old 01-31-2013, 04:11 PM
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mdill mdill is offline
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X2, if the base material works, but the word on the street is that the doors
don't close well (no mater how well you do the corners) with the genaric strip.
If the teamgrandwagoneer ones work out of the box seal right, doors close nice and I don't need to spend a couple hours fitting, spending the $'s might make sense.

We need a field report, I think the TGW ones are new on the market, it would be nice to hear from someone else who spent the $'s and time to test them out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gas4blood
Im not really worried about the "molded" corners. I figure if I take my time to make nice tight cuts and use some high quality weatherstrip adhesive, I should be fine. Not really worth spending $240 total to me to get the molded seals.
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Last edited by mdill : 01-31-2013 at 04:25 PM.
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  #24  
Old 01-31-2013, 05:25 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
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They'd be worth it to me if they fit right.

But maybe this ebay stuff fits better than what BJ's has???

Hopefully gas4blood will have good news to report.
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  #25  
Old 02-01-2013, 10:14 AM
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mdill mdill is offline
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Best guess the EBAY stuff is the same genaric weather strip cut to almost fit as what BJ's
has, there only seems to be a few suppliers of genaric weather strip, so chances are it is from the same base supplier. (I could be wrong, though)
I would hope that since TGW went though the trouble of getting the corners
molded (paying the NRE setup costs to get this done is not cheap) they would have also re done the strip material to match the OEM Jeep profile vs. just using the the same generic stuff but (??)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
They'd be worth it to me if they fit right.

But maybe this ebay stuff fits better than what BJ's has???

Hopefully gas4blood will have good news to report.
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1977 J-10 Honcho 360-T15-D20
1977 Cherokee WT 360-Th400-NP241 true-trac(s)
1979 Cherokee 4 Door 258-T-18-D20
1981 Cherokee Chief WT 360-727-NP208
1972 K20 Suburban 350 SM465 205
And the other stuff that gets driven
----------------------------------------
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  #26  
Old 02-01-2013, 10:38 AM
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ScottsMojo ScottsMojo is offline
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One thing

What I have noticed has been a lack of mention of the vent holes in the door seals in all the door seal threads I have read over the past years. If you look at the original seals, there are small 1/8" or so holes along the outside edge of the seal spaced every so often. These are there to let the air escape when the door compresses the seal.

If these are not present, regardless of what seal you use, when you try to close your door you are trying to compress an air bladder, given the seal is installed properly and the corners and ends are glued up with reasonable accuracy.

It seems like such a small detail, but go take a close look at your late model car door seals. I think you will find that they have little holes every so often, and they are there for a purpose.
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  #27  
Old 02-01-2013, 11:52 AM
CJ5 CJ5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottsMojo
What I have noticed has been a lack of mention of the vent holes in the door seals in all the door seal threads I have read over the past years. If you look at the original seals, there are small 1/8" or so holes along the outside edge of the seal spaced every so often. These are there to let the air escape when the door compresses the seal.

If these are not present, regardless of what seal you use, when you try to close your door you are trying to compress an air bladder, given the seal is installed properly and the corners and ends are glued up with reasonable accuracy.

It seems like such a small detail, but go take a close look at your late model car door seals. I think you will find that they have little holes every so often, and they are there for a purpose.

That is a good point. If the PO comes back and says what he bought worked well. I may take my BJ's one and put holes in them and see if that creates a difference. Like I mentioned, from the inside, mine only seem to be really tight in the pull handle portion of the door. With seals it closes perfect.
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  #28  
Old 02-01-2013, 07:35 PM
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woodfar woodfar is offline
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door seals

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamJay1979
I actually bought these and my doors wont close will obviously still buy all kinds of stuff from BJs but not pumped about these... actually ripped my arm rest off trying to slam the door from the inside.. aaarrgggghhhhh

Got door seals from a Grand Wagoneer at bone yard. Paid $10. They must be thicker as I have the same problem.
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  #29  
Old 02-02-2013, 09:54 AM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Scott has it right. I put these same ones on mine and they are exactly what's needed (mine's a '72 so I don't know about the newer models). The new seals compress nicely and allow the doors to close fully without a slam.

I did put sill trim from a newer Wagoneer in, which helps hold things together. If I were to do it again - and I still might do this - I'd put the ends under the sill trim. Duh.

I conservatively measured mine and also came up with 47 feet, and ordered 50 feet to be safe. I have 12 feet left over. Go figure. I didn't think I was THAT conservative.

Note to BJs Offroad: Stock this weatherstrip and sell it for the pre-'74 models! I'd have bought it from you the first time around, since I was buying everything else from you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottsMojo
I have R & P Carriage in my saved sellers on EBay as I thought thats who I would buy new seals from when I get to that point. Here is the link to their store.

http://stores.ebay.com/R-and-P-Carriages-Trailer-Sales

I think this is the seal you are looking for...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trim-LoK-Lock-Seal-1-8-x-5-8-bulb-Side-Door-Rubber-/350433434512?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Acc essories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519775db90
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  #30  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:39 AM
CJ5 CJ5 is offline
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I messed around with mine last night. I left the seal off in different places to play around and see if I could pinpoint where the issue may be. When the seal was removed from the bottom of the door, they shut fine. My original comments about the arm rest section of the door was wrong. The seal is compressed the most there but it does not hinder closing. My issue seems to be the bottom of the door.
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  #31  
Old 02-02-2013, 09:07 PM
Pair O 79 J10 Pair O 79 J10 is offline
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TGW seals

I have a set of TGW seals, I have not installed them yet. They look to be a high quality seal, on the same level as some Am softseals I have purchased in the past for some of my "other" projects. The have very nice molded corners and the seal is soft and pliable ( and these seals are in my 36 degree garage right now and they are still soft). The seals "do" have the little bleed holes molded in, all in all I'm very impressed with the look and feel of the seal. I will be installing at least one of them next week. I'll report the as installed fit.
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  #32  
Old 02-03-2013, 08:50 PM
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gas4blood gas4blood is offline
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Tracking information says my seals will be here on Tuesday. Thinking about using a day of PTO this week to install them before the rain comes later this week. I will be sure to give a report as they go in.
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  #33  
Old 02-03-2013, 08:50 PM
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gas4blood gas4blood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budojeepr
Scott has it right. I put these same ones on mine and they are exactly what's needed (mine's a '72 so I don't know about the newer models). The new seals compress nicely and allow the doors to close fully without a slam.

I did put sill trim from a newer Wagoneer in, which helps hold things together. If I were to do it again - and I still might do this - I'd put the ends under the sill trim. Duh.

I conservatively measured mine and also came up with 47 feet, and ordered 50 feet to be safe. I have 12 feet left over. Go figure. I didn't think I was THAT conservative.

Note to BJs Offroad: Stock this weatherstrip and sell it for the pre-'74 models! I'd have bought it from you the first time around, since I was buying everything else from you.

Great to hear. Looks like I will have about the same leftover then! haha.
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  #34  
Old 02-03-2013, 08:58 PM
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ScottsMojo ScottsMojo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ5
I messed around with mine last night. I left the seal off in different places to play around and see if I could pinpoint where the issue may be. When the seal was removed from the bottom of the door, they shut fine. My original comments about the arm rest section of the door was wrong. The seal is compressed the most there but it does not hinder closing. My issue seems to be the bottom of the door.

What does the door alignment look like from the outside, with the door closed? Is the bottom of the door aligned properly? If it is, you can still probably cheat the bottom of the door out a little to make closing easier.
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  #35  
Old 02-05-2013, 01:51 AM
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elskeptico elskeptico is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ5
When the seal was removed from the bottom of the door, they shut fine. My issue seems to be the bottom of the door.

I have had the exact same experience with the 'generic' door seals I ordered from BJ's. It really sucks to have the slam the door so hard, and I feel like I'm putting a lot of stress on the whole truck.

I have an idea that hasn't been floated yet, so here it goes. I'm thinking of hitting the bottom part of the seal with a heat gun for a bit, then closing the door, so that, ideally, the bottom part of the seal "molds" a little to its closed position. Hope to have time to try this out tomorrow. If I ruin the seal, too bad, so sad. I'll post results.
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  #36  
Old 02-05-2013, 07:50 AM
CJ5 CJ5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottsMojo
What does the door alignment look like from the outside, with the door closed? Is the bottom of the door aligned properly? If it is, you can still probably cheat the bottom of the door out a little to make closing easier.

My alignment looks great from the outside. I worked and worked with it and I think it is about a perfect as I can get. I may readdress it. I am interested to see what the new seals fit like and interested to hear what elskeptico comes up with.
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  #37  
Old 02-08-2013, 06:02 PM
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gas4blood gas4blood is offline
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Got the seals installed. For the most part, it was a smooth install. The only places I had any issues were on the A-pillars. There are about 3-4 body seams that come together here so the pinch weld is thicker than the rest of the door frame. Had to work a little harder to get the seal on. The doors close great and seal nicely. However, I still have great googley moogley googley moogley water leaking in to the Jeep!!!!!!!!!!!! I found where it is coming from. Just have to tear the door panels off now and figure out why it is leaking where it is!!!
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  #38  
Old 02-09-2013, 02:31 AM
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Chris_Hoyt Chris_Hoyt is offline
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Glad they work. I had seen those a while back and was curious about how they would fit. Looks like I'll pick up some of their product. For the price, you can't beat it.
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  #39  
Old 01-10-2014, 04:12 AM
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BigJ200 BigJ200 is offline
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Any more updates on this? There were lots of ideas here and I would love to hear how each one turned out.

So, the Carriage seals are working well? Sealing properly? No slamming?

Have any of you bought seals from www.grandwagoneer.net ... They restore their grands to the highest level. So I'm sure he wouldn't put up with telling his customers to "just slam the door!" Not even sure if they sell their seals. But I'm desperate to find a solution to this lame issue. I'd rather eat a virus than deal with this witch hunt.
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  #40  
Old 01-10-2014, 10:25 AM
JohnA JohnA is offline
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Make sure you use a rubber mallet to seat the strips. Pushing on with your hands not adequate. They must seat fully to improve door closing.
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