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  #1  
Old 05-18-2017, 06:00 PM
KiwiWagoneer KiwiWagoneer is offline
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Hood insulation installation - 3m tape?

Hi - what's the best way to put this stuff in?
Guessing there is some wide automotive grade tape, that won't fail under heat.
Cheers,
J.
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  #2  
Old 05-18-2017, 11:41 PM
440sixpack 440sixpack is offline
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The factory used a spray on glue, similar to the yellow contact adhesive for carpet and such. probably the same actually.

3M has it in spray cans and it seems to work good.
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2017, 08:47 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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i can confirm it was yellow from the factory.
i have removed OEM insulation from 2 wagoneers
1988 and 1990
you could tell it was sprayed in a wide pattern
and it was indeed yellow.

i am using dynamats hood liner.....
not OEM but better in my opinion

once,...some old fuzzy OEM insulation was hanging down, my carb back fired and the small flame from the carb ignited the OEM insulation.
i did not think it was flammable but the fuzzy strands did burn.

so i think the foil face on dynamats product is nice...for several reasons.
dave in NC
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2017, 01:07 PM
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TexasJ10 TexasJ10 is offline
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I have been looking at the dynamite type hood insulation. Let us know what you think after installed. I really wish they would have the stuff in black though. I don't like too much shiny!
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* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
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  #5  
Old 06-23-2017, 09:43 PM
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Probesport Probesport is offline
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Contact cement sprayed with a primer gun is the proper way. It's often referred to as gorilla snot.

Locally and cheaply, get a $15 gun from harbor freight and a container of Weldwood contact cement from the hardware store. You can use the same for headliners and carpeting as well.
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  #6  
Old 06-24-2017, 10:59 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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3M spray adhesive works just fine.
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  #7  
Old 06-30-2017, 12:12 PM
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jeepman1 jeepman1 is offline
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Remember kids if you spray a nice heavy coat of contact cement on both the hood and the_____________ (whatever you used here), go take a 10-15 min nap, then come back and push the two together, boom! your done. Ajax wont take that off..
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  #8  
Old 06-30-2017, 12:18 PM
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Probesport Probesport is offline
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^^^ Absolutely. I also spray a thin coat after the wait to active and make positioning easier. Nothing will separate that bond.
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Jeep toy: 1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
Megasquirt EFI
: Heated Seats : Blower fix : Driving light brackets : Shorty headers : Coil Packs : Electric Fans
Prior Jeeps: 1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
Other toys: 1930 Model A (Hotrod), 1997 Ford Probe Turbo, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 2005 VW Touareg
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2017, 08:33 PM
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asudchiman asudchiman is offline
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the one I used already had an adhesive backing.
I will see if I can find the link and post it below.
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2017, 08:38 PM
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asudchiman asudchiman is offline
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This is what it looked like along with the LEDs I installed.
The product was called:

Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner 32" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener

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Last edited by asudchiman : 07-18-2017 at 11:00 AM.
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  #11  
Old 07-17-2017, 09:14 PM
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DarkMonohue DarkMonohue is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asudchiman
This is what it looked like...
Please check your PMs.
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  #12  
Old 07-18-2017, 10:58 AM
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asudchiman asudchiman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMonohue
Please check your PMs.

ahh -- got it. cut and paste. thx
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2nd: 2005 Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 Hemi (Sold)
1st: 1993 Wrangler Sahara (Sold)
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  #13  
Old 07-20-2017, 09:32 AM
twmattox twmattox is offline
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I was debating using some of the asphalt sound deadening material and reflective insulation. I was mostly worried about heat loosening the asphalt and all of it dropping onto the engine while driving. Anyone have any experience with the heat loosening the glue?
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  #14  
Old 07-20-2017, 09:54 AM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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I use Pliobond for heavy duty gluing. It is better than weldwood products.
It is also gas, oil and wind proof. Follow the directions exactly. The max strength is obtained in 7 days. Something to keep in mind.
If you want to glue a rock to a piece of glass. This is the glue for you.

https://www.hannarubbercompany.com/adhesives/pliobond/
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2017, 06:03 AM
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TexasJ10 TexasJ10 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twmattox
I was debating using some of the asphalt sound deadening material and reflective insulation. I was mostly worried about heat loosening the asphalt and all of it dropping onto the engine while driving. Anyone have any experience with the heat loosening the glue?

I wouldn't use the asphalt based products under the hood. They are not designed to go there and are typically very heavy. I suspect they are also flammable . Go with the stuff that is designed for engine bay.
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* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
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