6.2 Diesel - Who's done it? Speak up!

[HighSierra86]

What are your opinions in regard to the crank girdle and cam gears to correct some of the 6.2 issues. Also, would you start with a 6.2 or 6.5 block for a mechanical injected turbo?

The crank girdle has some mixed reviews in the diesel world. Most engine builders that I have talked with agree that the ARP kit dosent do much, if anything, to strengthen the bottom end. What needs to be developed is a full one-piece girdle that includes all the main caps. The arp design just links the existing caps together. Problem is, the research and development of such a product is not worth the time and money for a company to do so. There is not a large performance market for the older gm diesels as there is for the duramax/cummins engines. Saying this, I do know of a few people who are working on a one off design for their own engine.

One thing is for certain with the ARP girdle and stud kit though. While many agree it isnt the best option, it is an available and afordable one. It sure wont cause any harm and if anything, it may help a little. Plus using studs for the main caps is recomended anyways. If I ever have the money to rebuild an engine for my 95' pickup I will be using the kit.

Another thing to keep in mind is that most crankshaft failures are directly related to defective harmonic balencers. When rebuilding or transplanting a running engine, look for cracks in the rubber of the balencer or just buy a new one to be safe.

As for the gear kits....I cant say I have much info for you on that one. I have previously just used the factory chain settup with no issues. The factory sets are known to last in excess of 200K miles with few issues. Gear kits are very expensive and while they are nice, in my opinion not a necessity.

When choosing a block to start with, I would opt for a 6.2. Much cheaper and easier to find and they tend to have a better record when it comes to cracks. The later model 6.2 blocks had one piece rear main seals, while the earlier ones had a two piece. The last production 6.2 blocks were identical to the 6.5, just a smaller bore. I think they might have been the 599 block but dont quote me on that.

Biggest thing to remember when choosing a block is look for cracks. I will not buy an engine without first inspecting the main webs near the cap bolts. Just because an engine has low miles and running, dosent mean squat. Although some blocks tend to be better than others...THEY ALL CAN CRACK. There was never a completely crack-free block.

Another option is running, tested, engines with a 30 day warranty can be bought shipped for around $1200 from a military surplus supplier called boyce equipment. These are 6.2 naturaly aspirated (non-turbo) engines.

Many options to consider when going the route of a diesel swap. Alot depends on your budget and power expectations.

-Nick

[HerrKooled]

Ok, so, everyone and their grandmother would love to do a 4bt/6bt/4bda or whatever diesel swap. I get that. I understand that the 6.2 is not a workhorse like the Cummins are. I am just looking for decent fuel mileage and longevity.

Everyone else feel free to chime in, Cummins guys probably will just to laugh in my direction.

People like the cummins because the 12 valve is mechanical with no electronics up to 98, and makes considerably more power and is turbocharged. Not to mention with the right parts it is easier then one may think to reach 1000 ft lbs with them, and that will spin a 44" tire with any set of gears with considerable ease.

Not to mention I've seen a few them on original build with over 700k

Truck magazine did an article on a guy who has 1.4 million miles on his 6BT cummins, on original factory build. Only a few external parts replaced.

[HighSierra86]

People like the cummins because the 12 valve is mechanical with no electronics up to 98, and makes considerably more power and is turbocharged. Not to mention with the right parts it is easier then one may think to reach 1000 ft lbs with them, and that will spin a 44" tire with any set of gears with considerable ease.

Not to mention I've seen a few them without rebuild running on original build with over 700k

Truck magazine did an article on a guy who has 1.4 million miles on his 6BT cummins, on original build. Only external parts replaced.

A great engine with almost unlimited power abilities. But also a very loud, expensive, large, and heavy engine with a ton of vibration. If one was going for pavement ripping hp or torqe numbers, this would be the direction I would go.

The 6.2/6.5 engines have almost the exact same dimensions to that of a small block chevy engine, which makes them easily adapted to almost anything.

The low cost and availability of running engines and parts is a wonderful thing to.

One can buy a 6.5 diesel that is mechanicaly injected and turbo charged. These were available up untill 93'. All pumps after were electronically controled.

Another option for these engines as a conversion into a jeep might be found within a van. While the turbo powered pickups had side mounted turbo chargers, the vans and buses came with a center mount turbo and different heads. Dont know if this could solve any clearence or exhaust issues??

[HerrKooled]

A great engine with almost unlimited power abilities. But also a very loud, expensive, and large engine with a ton of vibration.

The 6.2/6.5 engines have almost the exact same dimensions to that of a small block chevy engine, which makes them easily adapted to almost anything.

The low cost and availability of running engines and parts is a wonderful thing to.

True, people should realize the cummins is an agricultural engine. It was desinged for tractors, generators, farm equipment, boats, trucks, etc.

The 6.2/6.5 series is based of a V series motor and designed for use in vehicles alone.

He said he wanted reliability, and longevity. Well 700k-1.4 mil sounds like "longevity" to me.

[Karl Streich]

People like the cummins because the 12 valve is mechanical with no electronics up to 98, and makes considerably more power and is turbocharged. Not to mention with the right parts it is easier then one may think to reach 1000 ft lbs with them, and that will spin a 44" tire with any set of gears with considerable ease.

Not to mention I've seen a few them on original build with over 700k

Truck magazine did an article on a guy who has 1.4 million miles on his 6BT cummins, on original factory build. Only a few external parts replaced.

I used to have a neighbor with a Cummins and that thing lived on the hook of a tow truck, got towed at least once a month! I'm not sure why you need 1000# to spin 44s, it really is best at breaking your axles, transfer case, transmission, drive shaft, ect, if that's what you want then jumping up to a medium duty chassis may be in order.

My LB7 with 550-600# of torque moves a 20,000# truck just fine, I don't see why 350# of torque will have a problem with normal sized tires, 31-35".

The way to get tons of miles is to get up and drive it only long trips, most wear is cold starts, so if you drive 2 city miles to work you will have a similar amount of wear as your friend who drives 20 miles on the highway.

The weight of a Cummins is a killer where I'm from, straight roads are fine, but winding country roads the weight destroys front tires twice as fast as rears, and it makes the truck less enjoyable to drive.

They do what they do well, but in anything less than a 1 ton a 4bt would be a far better fit.

[HerrKooled]

I used to have a neighbor with a Cummins and that thing lived on the hook of a tow truck, got towed at least once a month! I'm not sure why you need 1000# to spin 44s, it really is best at breaking your axles, transfer case, transmission, drive shaft, ect, if that's what you want then jumping up to a medium duty chassis may be in order.

My LB7 with 550-600# of torque moves a 20,000# truck just fine, I don't see why 350# of torque will have a problem with normal sized tires, 31-35".

The way to get tons of miles is to get up and drive it only long trips, most wear is cold starts, so if you drive 2 city miles to work you will have a similar amount of wear as your friend who drives 20 miles on the highway.

The weight of a Cummins is a killer where I'm from, straight roads are fine, but winding country roads the weight destroys front tires twice as fast as rears, and it makes the truck less enjoyable to drive.

They do what they do well, but in anything less than a 1 ton a 4bt would be a far better fit.

Interesting, not sure why he had so many problems. Can happen with anything.

You are not going to break a dana 80 anytime soon, which is what the 5spd 3/4 ton cummins dodges come equipped with. All one ton duallies are 80 as well. As far as chassis, I am using the entire dodge frame, axles, tranny, 241 Heavy Duty transfer case and diesel. Just swapping the body.

Stock cummins for the year is around 450 torque, which is fine for low end grunt, although mine has a banks kit jumping it to 850 ft lbs.

Even though my J20 and the 2500 are both "3/4 ton" trucks, the other is far more heavy duty.

[Karl Streich]

He was destroying his transmission and drive shaft quite regularly, sure, in a 1 ton like you have a 6bt is great, but in a 1/2 ton there are better options, I believe that is where this thread started.

[Towtruck]

Do you know when that engine started production? I have a crack at a 1997 that needs to be rebuilt, but it is still in the truck with everything needed sans a head and short block overhaul kit.

Those numbers are +35hp and +100# torque from the '79 360, with the 20% deeper first gear of the 700r4 this should move the Cherokee right along

http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/268941-isuzu-4he1tc-into-fj62.html

Karl,

Here's a link to an amazingly detailed and informative thread describing a 175 HP Isuzu 4HE1 transplant into an older Toyota Land Cruiser. Lots of details and photos about the engine, compatible Aisin transmissions, and the interface to the Land Cruiser transfer case. Combine this info with the info from Jeepinpete's 4BD swap (and others) and there's some real possibilites. I'm interested in a two wheel drive towing setup, so it's as "simple" as dropping in the existing engine and rear drive transmission along with a heavier duty rear axle. I believe the 175 HP engine showed up in 1999 models of the NPR. The 5.2 205 HP four valve engine followed the 175HP version in the 2006 time frame...but that's a full electronic engine and transmission.

[JeepFullSizeFan1984]

I'm bringing this back from the dead. This has been a great thread to read. I did get some good info here. To throw in my $.02, I'm a hardcore Cummins fan, but I'm planning a Diesel swap as well in a Grand Wagoneer, however, I am choosing the GM after all the research I've done on the web and forums. The Jeep would be a DD with light towing and offroading, so the GM Diesel is a perfect fit with much better fuel mileage over the 360 in it.

[carolinaboy]

http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=360

[kyamcalvert]

I started this thread when I was 18. Little more than a wee newborn on the FSJ scene, and thought I could take over the world with my good looks and charming demeanor...

NOTHING HAS CHANGED.
Except the Jeep...but I am still gonna get me some 6.2's to Frankenstein for this one...Bwahahahaha!

An important aspect that I left out of the original post that describes me fairly well: Cummins' are cool. Cummins' are tough. Cummins' are big and bad. Cummins' are EXPENSIVE. If I found a healthy, unmolested truck for ~2 grand, sure I'd be interested. But those do not exist. It is easier to find a Wagoneer made of solid Gold than a cheap first-gen Cummins'. I am a pennies-on-the-dollar type of guy. Cheap and I are close. Cheap and I never disagree. Cheap and I go way back. Cheap and I are blood-brothers.

I drive slow. The most I may tow is ~5k lbs, and that is very, very rare. I'm one of the bad guys who will say "what's wrong with towing with a 258?". Never do I run 75 down the interstate. Never do I get frustrated because I can't get up to highway speed in 4 seconds flat. Never do I give-two-sheeits about looking like the cool guy.

For all those reasons and more, this mutha' is goin' DOWN.

Anything anyone wants to add to this, please do. I need the info now more than ever...

[joe]

Nothing to add except if I didn't mention it before dsls are finicky about axle gearing. For DD use you could prolly live with 3.54's(nothing higher) but if you plan even occasional towing go with 4.10's My 6.2 C-20 loves 4.10's street or hwy. My 6.9 Ford "hates" its 3.55's for even light-med towing. Ok for unladen street use but thas about it. I still think your plan is sound and typical to Chevy/GM, parts are easy and reasonably cheap in the dsl world.
Go for it. Vroom vroom.

[kyamcalvert]

I'm running 33's, and may go up to 35s, unsure on that yet....I'd like to do SM465 and 4.56s with that setup...but, I am cheap. I will have to see what functionality-to-frugality ratio works for me when I get there.

[DieselSJ]

I'll bring this thread back.

In with a 6.5 turbo backed by a 700R4. And I'm finally getting to work on it again to get it back on the road.

[rocklaurence]

We talk about how you cant tow without a Bazillion lbs of toque and that anything less than a Cummins wont work. However, up until recently commercial trucks were running 2 speed rear axles with 300-350 ftlb torque gas motors that got horrible gas mileage. I'd rather have utility than performance in a work truck and the Chevy 6.6/6.5 are the cheapest/easiest choice for an install.