Windows no longer working within a week of one another

[RVAWagon]

Ok, so I've searched but I've not found the solution.

All based around windows, I have three issues:
1) Driver-Rear window stopped working, it's currently cracked about 2-inches down.
2) Tailgate USED to only go down with key, but would go up with key or switch.
3) Tailgate stopped working, it's currently down about 6-inches

Item #1 - About a week ago, I parked my 87GW and I cracked all the windows so it wouldn't get too hot. When I got in after work and rolled up the windows, all went up except the driver side back glass. It will not go up or down with the switch or manually. Also the voltmeter in the dash does not register any drop when I hit the switch. The needle bounces a bit with all other switches.

Item #2 - When I bought the wagon a few years ago, the tailgate window would only go down if I have the key in the door and if I guided the glass down, it would get stuck a bit in the track going down. The window would go up fine with the key. The dash switch would only roll the window up.

Item #3 - Yesterday I was rolling the window down with the key in the tailgate and it went down about 6-inches and then just stopped altogether.

I've seen on here BabyWag says that motors rarely fail and it's often electrical. That being said, the motors have always been very slow to roll up and down.

Questions:
A) So does it sound like one or both of these motors happened to fail?
B) I assume that item #2 requires a new switch, I've been meaning to do that, but since the window would work with the key, the new switch kept going down the priority level.
C) Can someone help guide how to test the motors? What tools will I need for this? I don't have a mA generator, would I need one?

Thank you for all your help. I've already purchased the motors so I can go ahead and get them in, I would just return them if it turns out I don't need them.

[RVAWagon]

UPDATE:
Issue #1 I hit the window switch on the driver side rear door and the window went down but it will still not go up. So now I'm thinking it's not the motor, but I don't know where to start checking.

[ShagWagon]

Take the switches apart and look for corrosion. Usually the culprit.

They all go thru the drivers switch panel as well. The tailgate also goes thru the front switch.

You can hook a 12v battery straight to the motors to test. Make sure they aren

Take the switches apart and look for corrosion. Usually the culprit.

They all go thru the drivers switch panel as well. The tailgate also goes thru the front switch.

You can hook a 12v battery straight to the motors to test. Make sure they aren’t still plugged into the Jeep wire harness when you do this.

Slow wi does are a sign they are getting corrosion and losing voltage. Unless the tracks are wasted, or twisted.

[RVAWagon]

Thanks for the help.

Update:
Item #1 - When I was taking apart the drivers side rear door, I noticed the brown wire was cut inside the hinge. I hooked up a jumper wire and the window rolled up! HUZZAH! So I connected the wire back and lubed the flex track and the window is doing much better!

Now onto item #2.... How do I access the tailgate when the window is 75% rolled up?!?

[babywag]

try pushing the drivers side upper corner of gate in.
many many times it is simply the safety switch not closed/completing the circuit.
if that doesn't work you'll need to pull carpet & access panel off to gain access.

[RVAWagon]

I've had to crawl into the back and remove the carpet and access panel. I'm in an odd position with the window still mostly up. I see where there is a YELLOW and BLACK wire into the top of the motor. From that connection there is the tan and brown wires that connect to the safety switch.

If I disconnect that harness/connector, I should be able to run a positive and negative off of the battery to actuator the motor, correct?

[babywag]

yes, but i would bypass safety switch first to see if that is the issue.

[RVAWagon]

how would I bypass the safety switch if the tailgate is closed?

[RVAWagon]

I've also found two black wires that are no longer connected. I'm assuming they are ground connections?

One is zip tied to one of the riser arms and connected to an orange wire, I'm thinking that for the defrost.

The other is all black but I can't tell where it's connected, it feels like it might be connected to the motor but it goes back behind the regulator arms/gears and I can't see or feel where it lands.

[babywag]

safety switch bypass = unplug and jumper between 2 wires of plug.
black wires likely for defrost grid

[RVAWagon]

OK Now we're cooking!

So I bypassed the safety switch with a jumper and ran 12v directly to the pigtail and now my window is all the way up!

So now I know the motor is good. But how do I go about putting it all back together?

I'd like to be able to bypass the safety switch and still use my key in the switch and the switch in the dash.

If I roll the window down to take down the tailgate, I wont be able to get to the motor pigtail since it will be behind the glass.

[babywag]

bypassing the safety switch you should still be able to use switches normally .
if not you have to find the problem(s).

[RVAWagon]

Yeah ... Ive bypasses the safety switch and still the window will not move with either the key or the dash switch......



I still have a new dash switch on order from TGW and it should be here on Monday. But I'm wondering where the issue is now

[RVAWagon]

So regarding the tailgate window, the dash switch doesn't move the window up or down. The door switch doesn't move the window up or down.

Currently the safety switch is bypassed with a wire nut connecting the two brown wires at the safety switch and the only way the motor works if I run 12v from the battery directly to the motor pigtail.

I'm currently waiting on the new switch to arrive (this Monday) and then I'm curious what happened to the tailgate door switch.

[SJTD]

In centered positions the rear switch makes BRN-BRN and TAN-TAN and the front switch grounds both BRN and TAN.

ORN is the hot and should have power all the time through the breaker on the fuse panel. Start by verifying this.

One way to go about troubleshooting is to unplug motor and with safety switch closed you should have continuity between BRN and TAN at motor plug and from either of those to ground.

If not, unplug rear switch and check again on the wires to dash. If OK now, bad key switch. If still nothing, bad dash switch, wires or connections.


Or find the connector C157 where it comes out of the tailgate. It's 3 wires, WHT, BRN and TAN. Unmate connector and ground both the BRN and TAN. This simulates a properly funcfuncfunctioning dash switch and the key switch should work.