1970 Jeep Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build

[Resbum]

Before securing the oil line to the top of the filter housing I used a funnel and prefilled some of the oil passages. Between that and filling the filter I was able to precharge the oil system with almost two quarts of oil.


The turbo is now installed for good. I turned the wastegate diaphram around and shortened the boost hose, installed a 3" adapter on top of the oil filter housing that allowed the oil line to sit farther away from the manifold extention, and fabricated the oil drain piping. The drain hose is 400psi, 500 degree oil line. Also, by fiddling with the placement of the turbo compressor outlet I was able to eliminate one of the 45 degree silicone pieces I originally had in the air line to the intercooler.

[Resbum]

After getting everything mounted I moved the cab back out of the way and wheeled the truck outside to get some pictures of the engine in better light. Still not the greatest pictures.

[Achilles]

This is a work of art. You definitle pay attention to the smallest of details.

[Resbum]

Thanks. I've appreciated all the comments people have made.

Yesterday was a huge stress relief day. For over two years I've been planning, thinking, and visualizing how everything was suppose to fit together and share space, but until I actually put it all together I never knew if I'd overlooked anything. For example, miscalculating the clearance for the downpipe, then having to come up with a fix by relocating the turbo. To be honest, I don't think my finances and timeline could handle coming up with another fix like that.

For the next couple of days I'm going to put the truck on hold, move it out of the shop, and do a major cleaning. I haven't made any effort to keep it clean since I started the engine rebuild phase and it's to a point I can't stand working in there.

Resbum

[Resbum]

After taking two days to do a really deep clean on the shop I got back to work on the truck today. I managed to get past what I knew was going to be the hardest part of making the exhaust.

A 4" exhaust had to squeeze by the frame, front driveshaft, and transfer case.

This almost new 4" exhaust came off the same truck I got the front axle, springs, and transfer case from. It actually cleans up really well and will look a lot better than this.


To make sure my welding was up to the job I cut the old 3" end off. It originally mated to the stock Dodge downpipe. I cut it apart, then welded it back together and beat the daylights out of it with my maul. Passed with flying colors.


This is clearance I had to work with.

[Resbum]

When I stopped today I had this. There's barely room for everything. I'll put a few well placed dents in the pipe with my press, then make a couple heatshields to keep some of the heat off the CV joint and transfer case and I should be OK.

[budojeepr]

Just stopped by for my weekly dose of humility. I look at this beautiful work and go back to my garage hoping to do 1/10th aa good a job.

[Wagn Man]

Amazing!

[jeepmj_tj]

Looking good. I was amazed at how much movement these engines have when shutting then down and when there is a serious load on them. I would double check the clearances on your exhaust pipe. Mine moves quite a bit in these situations and had to relocate the exhaust a couple times before I prevented all the annoying rattles and clangs. I'm running a 24v intake horn on my 92 engine and when backing up a steep hill the engine torques to the driverside just far enough for the intake horn to graze the master cylinder. It took a while to find what was causing that one.....

[Resbum]

Looking good. I was amazed at how much movement these engines have when shutting then down and when there is a serious load on them. I would double check the clearances on your exhaust pipe. Mine moves quite a bit in these situations and had to relocate the exhaust a couple times before I prevented all the annoying rattles and clangs. I'm running a 24v intake horn on my 92 engine and when backing up a steep hill the engine torques to the driverside just far enough for the intake horn to graze the master cylinder. It took a while to find what was causing that one.....

Thank you very much for the first hand knowledge. It's something I've been wondering about. I'm not quite done but should have it finished tomorrow and will post more info.

[Resbum]

Looking good. I was amazed at how much movement these engines have when shutting then down and when there is a serious load on them. I would double check the clearances on your exhaust pipe. Mine moves quite a bit in these situations and had to relocate the exhaust a couple times before I prevented all the annoying rattles and clangs. I'm running a 24v intake horn on my 92 engine and when backing up a steep hill the engine torques to the driverside just far enough for the intake horn to graze the master cylinder. It took a while to find what was causing that one.....

Got the exhaust finished as far as I'm going to for the time being. I'll finish the last tailend section once I have the fuel tanks in.

Black Energy Suspension motor mounts are one of the things I did to hopefully lessen motor rotation caused by torque. They're polyurethane and fill all the voids in the middle rubber section the stock outer rubber mounts leave open.






I had some schedule 40 pipe that the 4" exhaust fit in perfectly. I cut a section of it in half then placed the pipe in it when I made dents to gain a touch more clearance in places. It really helped keep the pipe from deforming too much.


The heat shield for the CV Joint I welded to the exhaust pipe.


The heat shield for the transfer case mounted to it. This shield in now officially the ugliest thing I've made for the truck. If I end up having any clearance vibration noises my money is on this will be the problem. The exhaust pipe gets pretty close to it.

[Resbum]

I ended up having to really cut up the pipe. In two places, no matter how I tried to configure things, I kept needing another inch or two of pipe. After all the welding the aluminized coating was pretty beat up, so I ended up painting everything with VHT. I took quite a bit of time strategically placing the hangers and they do a really good job of minimizing vibration while still allowing flex for frame and drivetrain movement. Time will tell if I end up having to fix clearance/vibration issues.


Along side the rear shock and fuel tanks is another area where I expect to have to make some well placed dents in the pipe. That's why I'm not totally finishing things at this point.

[jeepmj_tj]

Perhaps the 2nd gen mounts do a better job. I'm running the factory style 1st gen mounts and they allow for a lot of movement. I was trying to be cheap and thrifty when I did my swap and use the engine brackets on the motor.

[Resbum]

Perhaps the 2nd gen mounts do a better job. I'm running the factory style 1st gen mounts and they allow for a lot of movement. I was trying to be cheap and thrifty when I did my swap and use the engine brackets on the motor.

I originally was hoping to use the stock mounts, too. Back in the 90's I had a Toyota PU I set up for wheelin'. I put polyurethane engine mounts in it and they transmitted a fair amount of vibration to the frame. However, as I started putting all the mechanicals in the Jeep I realized things were going to get real tight for the exhaust in places.

Unlike the Toyota mounts that replaced everything with polyurethane, these only replace the front and rear sections with polyurethane. The section in the middle is still stock injected rubber. I'm hoping that rubber section soaks up some of the vibration while the front and rear polyurethane sections help minimize rotational movement.

Again, thanks for speaking up about your experience. That was a timely piece of knowledge.

[Resbum]

I now have over 1500 pictures in my build archive. After looking at the ones of the fuel tanks mockup and reading old notes I decided to finish the exhaust. I estimate there's around 2 1/2" of clearance past the rear shock and fuel tank after I dented the pipe by the shock and slightly flattened the side by the tank. That's more room than I had by the front CV joint and NP205.

A few pics of the fuel tanks mockup were posted here:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showp...&postcount=176