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  #1  
Old 03-16-2008, 08:04 PM
YoungClayB YoungClayB is offline
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Join Date: Jan 04, 2008
Location: Gastonia, NC
Posts: 115
Finally got ALL my door locks working!!!

Hey guys,
I've hit a milestone...ALL 4 of my electric door locks are working now (up and down!!!) I know, its amazing; I can hardly believe it myself

Prior to getting them all working, I went to the local car stereo shop and had them install an aftermarket keyless entry system...the parking lights even blink when I lock and unlock the doors on my 88!!! They tried to also wire in the horn, but apparently the horn doesnt work unless the car is turned on...oh well.

For anyone having issues with either non-working or "sticky" door locks, here are the things I did that finally got them working;
- I had to replace the actuators for the driver's side doors - front and back - I ordered the OEM replacements from teamgrandwagoneer.com
- Even after replacing the actuators, the rear door would lock, but it refused to unlock. Solution: After trying MANY other things, I finally just removed the torsion spring in the door lock mechanism. Presto. There is plenty of friction in the rear lock linkages already to keep the locks from "falling".
- The front driver's side door lock (after replacing the actuator) was
intermitant. It would always "lock", but only occationally would it "unlock". This was quite the PITA since..you know, it is the driver's door afterall. Solution: First, I opened up the drivers side "switch" and noticed that the "up wire" was a little loose so I took some needlenose pliers and clamped it tight - this helped a little, but it still wouldn't unlock 100% of the time. So, I bought a "light duty" spring from home depot and rigged it up so that the spring was pulling up slightly on the actuator rod. Works like a charm now.
- The rear passenger door worked fine for a while...or so I thought. Upon closer inspection, I realized that when I "locked" the doors, the rear passenger door appeared to be locked (i.e. the plunger went down), but you could still open the door from the outside. Solution: same as the other side - I just removed the torsion spring and it actually locks now.

I found it interesting, that most of the advice on this forum for "sticky" locks is to remove the door lock assembly so that it can be cleaned and degreased. None of my door locks needed this. I actually did remove one of the rear assemblies, but once I got it removed, I realized that it was fine. After this realization, I checked the other ones by simply disconnecting the rod assembly and checking the resistance by hand.

Hurray!!! Door locks!!!
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  #2  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:23 AM
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crispyboy crispyboy is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: May 14, 2002
Location: Alexandria, Kentucky
Posts: 2,311
YCB,
Congratulations! You are step ahead of me. I need to tackle this job but I can't get the gumption up to do any work with the winter blahs....
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<br /><br />\"The best Jeeps came from the past when gay meant you were happy and Aids was an appetite suppressant"
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  #3  
Old 04-04-2008, 12:44 PM
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jcountryman jcountryman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 23, 2008
Location: california
Posts: 35
Thumbs up

Thanks for the very helpful tip! I picked up some (4 inch springs) decorative plate hangers from the hardware store this morning and created hooks out out of the wire that hooks onto the plates and it works great. I'll post a pic later along with the item number. Took about 3 minutes to do one door.
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  #4  
Old 08-14-2010, 04:41 PM
Crist Clapper's Avatar
Crist Clapper Crist Clapper is offline
I'm being stalked by Steve... Save me!
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2008
Location: Blair County, PA 16662
Posts: 1,483
GW: Door Lock Actuators

Hey folks, I’m about to tackle my 1990 GW door lock actuators. They all “click/work”, but some only open, some only close, that sort of stuff. I found this posting. Any other advice would be much appreciated!!! Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungClayB
Hey guys,
I've hit a milestone...ALL 4 of my electric door locks are working now (up and down!!!) I know, its amazing; I can hardly believe it myself

Prior to getting them all working, I went to the local car stereo shop and had them install an aftermarket keyless entry system...the parking lights even blink when I lock and unlock the doors on my 88!!! They tried to also wire in the horn, but apparently the horn doesnt work unless the car is turned on...oh well.

For anyone having issues with either non-working or "sticky" door locks, here are the things I did that finally got them working;
- I had to replace the actuators for the driver's side doors - front and back - I ordered the OEM replacements from teamgrandwagoneer.com
- Even after replacing the actuators, the rear door would lock, but it refused to unlock. Solution: After trying MANY other things, I finally just removed the torsion spring in the door lock mechanism. Presto. There is plenty of friction in the rear lock linkages already to keep the locks from "falling".
- The front driver's side door lock (after replacing the actuator) was
intermitant. It would always "lock", but only occationally would it "unlock". This was quite the PITA since..you know, it is the driver's door afterall. Solution: First, I opened up the drivers side "switch" and noticed that the "up wire" was a little loose so I took some needlenose pliers and clamped it tight - this helped a little, but it still wouldn't unlock 100% of the time. So, I bought a "light duty" spring from home depot and rigged it up so that the spring was pulling up slightly on the actuator rod. Works like a charm now.
- The rear passenger door worked fine for a while...or so I thought. Upon closer inspection, I realized that when I "locked" the doors, the rear passenger door appeared to be locked (i.e. the plunger went down), but you could still open the door from the outside. Solution: same as the other side - I just removed the torsion spring and it actually locks now.

I found it interesting, that most of the advice on this forum for "sticky" locks is to remove the door lock assembly so that it can be cleaned and degreased. None of my door locks needed this. I actually did remove one of the rear assemblies, but once I got it removed, I realized that it was fine. After this realization, I checked the other ones by simply disconnecting the rod assembly and checking the resistance by hand.

Hurray!!! Door locks!!!
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  #5  
Old 08-14-2010, 07:51 PM
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halftrac halftrac is offline
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Join Date: Jan 22, 2006
Location: NC Mountains
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What are you calling a torsion spring?
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  #6  
Old 08-17-2010, 05:28 PM
Crist Clapper's Avatar
Crist Clapper Crist Clapper is offline
I'm being stalked by Steve... Save me!
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2008
Location: Blair County, PA 16662
Posts: 1,483
YoungClayB you are a genius! I removed/cleaned/adjusted and other stuff... And could not get the two back doors to lock. Until... I removed the small spring on each as you suggested and bam! ... They work! Just like the day it was delivered. I just stood-back pushing the button watching them go up/down. A thing of beauty. Thanks!
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  #7  
Old 12-29-2010, 08:58 AM
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Bulldoginit Bulldoginit is offline
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Join Date: Nov 29, 2010
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 2
I appreciate you for this one. I will try this. My passenger side door will not unlock with the OEM Key fob on my 90. Thanks!
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  #8  
Old 12-29-2010, 10:18 AM
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Billygoat Billygoat is offline
FSJ Maniac
 
Join Date: Mar 16, 2004
Location: Southwest Wisconsin
Posts: 2,493
congrats

My power locks work just fine, but the key locks are froze on Gonzo and I don't have the keys for Thumper, so I pulled the fuses.
This was after I had to climb in Gonzo's rear window because I must have bumped the lock switch.
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  #9  
Old 01-02-2011, 12:52 PM
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KyooMac KyooMac is offline
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Join Date: Oct 26, 2006
Location: Chicago land area
Posts: 464
This post is worth it's weight in GOLD!
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2011, 11:18 PM
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GWDriver GWDriver is offline
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Join Date: Jul 07, 2003
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 2,042
BIG thumbs up and Kudos. Thanks alot.............
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USMC Retired

Good Lovin', Good Beer, and a Grand Wagoneer. What more could one want?

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2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS/LX Wifes DD
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  #11  
Old 03-05-2011, 02:12 AM
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Tripwire Tripwire is offline
hey,does anyone here know how to.......
 
Join Date: Jul 30, 2000
Location: WA State
Posts: 4,179
SWEET! it can be a biatch (sp) sometimes
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Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/228 BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
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  #12  
Old 10-30-2016, 09:25 AM
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asudchiman asudchiman is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Feb 03, 2016
Location: Carolinas
Posts: 670
Lightbulb

Wow! How have I not see this post before?
Hopefully, this just saved me a lot of time and agony trying to get my door to unlock again.

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  #13  
Old 10-30-2016, 12:38 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,627
ABSOLUTELY

Great thread.
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360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
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If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
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  #14  
Old 10-30-2016, 01:20 PM
ShagWagon ShagWagon is offline
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Join Date: Apr 11, 2016
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 687
I just went through all mine and found if they work too well they will lock on you when you close the door. Not a good thing if you hop out to check the mail or 100 other somethings and close your door and lock your keys inside.

Found most of the latch springs sheared off and clinging on in the grease so they still provided just enough resistance to keep the heavy pull handles from dropping. So when you clean out the metal pieces and lubed them up they would drop very easy Into lock position on you.

GM steering column blinker cam return spring is a close fit if you're good at minor modifications a clip here and a bend there will make it work it's thin to fit.

I got the BJs spring kit and the spring is very thick to fit between the moving parts and rubs and is very stiff. I broke one trying to Install on drivers door so I used the other one for the back for drivers. Very stiff, So much that I worry I'll break the key off trying to unlock it. I hope it breaks in.

I think honestly if you can leave just enough dirt in the mechanism and your old spring pieces, to where it doesn't drop on you, and the actuator lifts it smoothly then you'll have achieved enlightenment and a happy medium.

If your a perfectionist and want it clean and proper then your in for a struggle.

BJs off road has a tutorial to show you how to change these out on the website where you purchase the replacement springs.
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Last edited by ShagWagon : 10-30-2016 at 01:26 PM.
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