Brake warning light/Proportioning valve

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  • Towtruck
    350 Buick
    • Oct 11, 2001
    • 1026

    Brake warning light/Proportioning valve

    I was messing around adjusting the e-brake portion of the Eldorado rear disk brakes and lost some fluid in the process. I added some to the . Then I noticed the brake warning light stays on. So, I managed to activate the proportioning valve switch. (I isolated it electrically to the wire on that valve).

    The Haynes shop manual is pretty worthless regarding the proportioning valve...some general mumbo jumbo, but no cutaway to see how the thing works. Both front and rear brakes seem to be working OK. How do I reset that switch? I read somewhere that it sometimes will reset by jamming the brakes pedal down really hard. Is that the trick? The dang thing gave me a problem 15 years ago when I installed the rear disks, but I can't recall how I finally fixed it. I think it's some sort of poppet valve...can I manually reset it? I checked old threads and couldn't find anything specific. Is it supposed to rest itself when everything is in order? Thanks
    Last edited by Towtruck; 05-09-2020, 03:13 PM.
    ___________________________
    J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
  • SJTD
    304 AMC
    • Apr 26, 2012
    • 1954

    #2
    Maybe crack a bleeder on one of the fronts and push the pedal?

    It's a spool that moves off center if the pressure on one side is higher than the other. Some are supposed to have a tool installed when bleeding to keep the spool from moving.

    Stupid light on my CJ's been on forever. Maybe I'm the stoopid one for not fixing it.
    Sic friatur crustulum

    '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

    Comment

    • Ristow
      • Jan 20, 2006
      • 17292

      #3
      the tool is to hold the metering valve open. it does not keep or otherwise interfere with the failure switch.


      the valve doesn't move until brakes are applied. you can open and drain all the fluid out of one circuit. the valve wont know it until brakes are applied and pressure is made in the other side of the system.



      with both circuits bled the valve should put itself to center. yours could be stuck. or your wire that went to the e-brake pedal grounded out while toy were messing around under there.
      Originally posted by Hankrod
      Ristows right.................again,


      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
      ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
      I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

      It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

      Comment

      • Towtruck
        350 Buick
        • Oct 11, 2001
        • 1026

        #4
        OK, thanks. It's definitely not the E-brake. Maybe there's air in the rear circuit. I'll just have to keep dicking with it.
        ___________________________
        J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

        Comment

        • babywag
          out of order
          • Jun 08, 2005
          • 10286

          #5
          I have found a very harsh stomp on pedal frequently "unsticks" valve.
          My 88 has done it a couple times when I knew no air was in system.
          Tony
          88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

          Comment

          • Towtruck
            350 Buick
            • Oct 11, 2001
            • 1026

            #6
            Follow up. It's fixed. Stomping very hard on the pedal a few times did the trick. Thanks everyone.
            ___________________________
            J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

            Comment

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