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  #61  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:26 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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More rust fixing. cut out, weld in, lead it, then body fill...



This trim has an unexpected, nasty suprise behind it-more rust

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1968 Gladiator Thriftside
12v p-pump cummins
Nv5600/Nv241dhd, D60 front, D80 rear
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  #62  
Old 11-13-2012, 09:12 AM
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Resbum Resbum is offline
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Wow, that's some pretty hardcore rust. Your bodywork skills are better than mine. When I started seeing that level of rust on my cab I bought a donor truck for its rust-free sheetmetal, sold off the mechanicals, recovered all my money, and went from there.

Congrats on sticking with it.
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"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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  #63  
Old 11-13-2012, 09:34 AM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Thanks. The donor would be a possibility, but there literally arent any of these trucks down here; I sold everything off of this one and broke even already...there is less salvagable on this truck then i thought originally though. The demon we just finished on was in overall worse condition than this, its easier to work on a truck in sections (where most of the cab gets covered up by fenders, the bed, etc) than a car with long quarter panels that need to be straight.
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1968 Gladiator Thriftside
12v p-pump cummins
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  #64  
Old 11-19-2012, 08:36 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Stripping time...I keep telling myself It looks farther along than it really is since the floor still has to be addressed when we get the frame over to our shop But good progress none the less

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1968 Gladiator Thriftside
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Nv5600/Nv241dhd, D60 front, D80 rear
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  #65  
Old 11-20-2012, 08:51 AM
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Resbum Resbum is offline
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I just realized you mentioned, "lead it", up in post #61.

Are you referring to melting lead similiar to soldering, as a filler?

The reason I ask is because I've only seen it done one time and it struck me as a better way to fill, over using a "bondo" type filler. At least for smaller areas.

I know there's some health precautions that need to be taken, but besides that, is it pretty easy to do. I was considering it for some areas of my truck.
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  #66  
Old 11-20-2012, 04:30 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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That is correct, this is the first time weve used it. Our thought (probably yours too) is that because bondo and most fillers are porous moisture can get down to bare metal. You should also be able to build it up more w/o issue. We also usually use a product called Allmetal for filler before a "thin" skim coat of bondo.

The body work has been my dad so far since ive been up at school/work. But ive watched him try leading a corner. We bought the kit from eastwood i believe. He said he watched a lot of youtube vids on it before doing it. The key is to keep the lead puddle barely liquid, too hot and it just runs off.
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Last edited by Mudbull : 11-20-2012 at 04:32 PM.
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  #67  
Old 11-21-2012, 09:51 AM
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Thanks
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  #68  
Old 11-21-2012, 07:23 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Any time Resbum.

Just got another update from my dad, more prep for primer:
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  #69  
Old 11-28-2012, 07:54 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Few more: Primers on, My dads piecing together the front fenders, the inner fenders (and as i said the cab floor) wont be touched until the frame/drivetrain are there to see what needs to be done.


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12v p-pump cummins
Nv5600/Nv241dhd, D60 front, D80 rear
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  #70  
Old 12-09-2012, 11:38 AM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Fenders are done, my dad will be wroking on the grille this week...I will be done with this semester of school by friday, so i'll be driving the ram over to a friends house to begin to swap the drivetrain over to the shortened frame. Im hoping in about two weeks the chassis will be at our shop, test fitting to body to see if anything needs to be modified to fit.


EDIT: One more for the day
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1968 Gladiator Thriftside
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Nv5600/Nv241dhd, D60 front, D80 rear

Last edited by Mudbull : 12-09-2012 at 11:20 PM.
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  #71  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:57 AM
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Looks good.
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  #72  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:49 PM
twisted frame twisted frame is offline
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Fenders are looking real nice! Are you going to be painting the dash at all? If so, will it be the same color as the body?
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  #73  
Old 12-11-2012, 07:53 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Thanks guys!

I was thinking of painting the dash either black or grey-those will be the interior colors..truck will be white w/ black accents (fender flares, maybe some other pieces).
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  #74  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:40 AM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Last bit of rust being taken care of, just have the floors to do and shave the firewall...and make the bed from scratch of coarse haha.


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  #75  
Old 12-15-2012, 11:45 PM
LMJ20 LMJ20 is offline
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Can't wait to see more of this.
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  #76  
Old 12-16-2012, 08:15 AM
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Thanks for posting all the pics. I officially started my body work yesterday and it's been nice being able to pop in here for info.

Resbum
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  #77  
Old 12-17-2012, 05:32 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Thanks a lot guys!

Resbum, i must say ive been enviously watching your thread as youve attacked your project on the opposite direction as i did (frame/drivetrain first...the 'fun, exciting' part). Were you planning on running on-board-air? im starting to look into all the mechanical things i want to cram into this truck, was curious of what you were planning on doing w/ your build.
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  #78  
Old 12-18-2012, 09:12 AM
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Thanks. It has been fun.

Yep, I'm going to have onboard air. The installation of my airtank (old propane tank) starts in post #198 of my thread. I haven't done anything else yet, but I have a York 210 compressor I raided off a Continental at the local wrecking yard and all the fittings, regulators, etc. Those are all Kobalt brand that I picked up at Lowes. I can't put the compressor in the stock location (not enough room), so I'm most likely going to mount it on the high front drivers side of the engine.
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"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290

Last edited by Resbum : 12-18-2012 at 09:15 AM.
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  #79  
Old 12-23-2012, 08:42 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Thanks for the pic Resbum, i was thinking of either the York or a RV2 since it has more cfm. Ill have to wait until my fuel tanks are in the frame before i know where ill be able to mount the air tanks...

This holiday weekend i got a chance to shave most of the firewall (missing 3 holes still) and weld together an aluminum box to house the stok Ram instrument panel in the kaisers dash.




I was planning on using the Rams stock indash a/c unit, but its just too wide. The new plan is to use the evaporator and heater core in an aluminum box ill make (mostly because id rather weld a box together instead of spending $200 on a new plastic piece).
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  #80  
Old 12-29-2012, 08:48 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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The days finally here: frame and Ram next to each other, hopefully tomorrow the engine will be coming out of the Ram. A 100 gallon tank fell into my lap today as well. Still planning out how to use it... maybe cut the tap half off and try to use the bottom half as my waste vegitable oil system, maybe use half and half for diesel and WVO tanks.

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