Vent window division bar replacement question

[rang-a-stang]

I have these and need to install them

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/Vent-Window-Division-Bars-with-Seals-Front-Doors_p_1548.html

Is it possible to install them without removing the vent window? If not, is it possible to remove the vent window without damaging the seal? I have removed 3 vent windows and it always seems to destroy the seal getting that one screw off on the bottom of the vent window...

[babywag]

Lotsa soapy water when removing seals lessens chance of damage.
The windows have to be removed, the parts you're replacing are riveted on from factory.
I imagine it would be a nightmare to even try removing with assemblies still installed even if possible.

[chubbinius]

Kaiserjeeps had a nice write up on his work replacing the ones in Sadie in his "Another 70 wagoneer build" thread. Hopefully it helps you get set-up for working yours in

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showpost.php?p=1690553&postcount=1501

[rang-a-stang]

Copy all. My doors are pretty much completely disassembled...except for the vent window. I guess I will take Tony's advice and use a bunch of warm soapy water and really hope I don't damage the seal taking the vent window assembly out. Luckily, I only need to do this on one side...

[SJTD]

Haven't gotten to the doors yet but on my early 60's Ford P/U I used pop rivets to install the glass channel. I just used a piece of rod with a hole in it as an anvil that reached down in the groove.

Wasn't "correct" but was easy and fast.

[Kaiserjeeps]

Kaiserjeeps had a nice write up on his work replacing the ones in Sadie in his "Another 70 wagoneer build" thread. Hopefully it helps you get set-up for working yours in
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showp...postcount=1501

Also some good information in fullsizejeepers build thread on this very same thing. I saw the pop rivet in the instructions in picture "T" on BJ's offroad site.
I don't see how the vent window or the seal can occupy the same space as that long pop rivet in the picture. The factory used the swedge type rivets which leaves room for all the other components. The only thing with using the correct rivets is you have to buy the tools to crimp them down. I got my rivets from Jay-Cee rivet or rivets online. And the really sweet crimper from Aircraft spruce. It was labeled as a brake lining tool and made in the USA. And I think Jay-cee also sells a cheap air tool swedge. The rivets are way to small for any air hammer action, but you could use a ball peen hammer and start slow to see what was needed to get a good crimp. I sent mine to Toddthewelder and he has vanished. Other wise I would sent it to you Rang.

On the upper rivet at the top of the window opening I had to bend open the frame to get the two rivets secured. The metal was fortunately soft and bent right back so I could rivet the bottom end. All in all it went well.

As for the holes not lining up, I bought undrilled glass run channel and built them myself. I used the mounting flags and old glass run to re-establish correct holes in the correct locations. Personally I would return **'s glass run. If the holes don't line up then it is not a good reproduction. I'll stop there at the risk of being a jerk regarding parts that don't fit right that good money paid for. That was my biggest pet peeve through out the entire build. It will do parts that require hours of fitting for a so-so install.

[rang-a-stang]

Copy that. I got my run from a fellow member for the low low price of free so I expect them to line up as well as I paid for them. My current driver side run is pretty much just a metal channel so even if this one sucks, it's better than what I got.

[ShagWagon]

Put 2-3 small hardened nuts on the Rivet tool to reach the bottom of the channel when re installing.

[SOLSAKS]

BJs was out of stock when I needed them
and shop was anxious to re assemble doors
so I cleaned out the channel very well
and put self adhesive velcro in the channel ( the fuzzy part )
I tried inserting a large piece into the channel
that I intended to trim flush to the channel edge

but ended up cutting 3 separate lengths and putting them on the 3 sides of channel, one at a time.
I wrapped it around the end of channel to help prevent lifting.

I know it was not done properly
but I was in a pinch and had to cut a corner on that one.....

and it is working great for now.

dave in NC

[rocklaurence]

OMG, these were/are a PITA! Normal rivets wont work because they interfere with the glass. You need the special Low Profile ones that are almost flush. My windows still wont close correctly and Im too pissed to go back and fix it Let me know what you end up doing

[rang-a-stang]

Copy all, folks.

I took my vent window out this weekend. Full Size Jeeper has just done his and had some left over rivets. He used the same rivets as Kaiserjeeps and offered to send me some. Wooo hoo! They get here Saturday.

My seal was soft enough that a little warm/soapy water helped me get the seal out without damaging anything.

[Kaiserjeeps]

Super! So you could get by with the air tool swedge tool. Or spring for the brake tool from aircraft spruce. Careful alignment with proper backing and you are set. If you can get a hold of Todd the welder ask him to send the tool I sent him to you. I turned it down in a lathe to fit the rivet just under the bottom of the wing window frame. It was super tight in there. Making it smaller made it stand up straighter. You are close to success!!

EDIT: If you get the air tool, just use a ball peen hammer and start gentle... An air hammer would send it into the next zip code.

[rws31]

I also had to change all my gaskets and seals and I bought the brake tool that Kaiserjeeps showed in his thread. It took some work to make the tips just right and it is a big PITA but with a little care it can be done.

If you need them, I will also be happy to send the tools to you. I will also send the special bolt cutters to replace the wing window pivot rivet if you need to remove that.