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  #1  
Old 01-19-2009, 12:39 PM
Madbodhi Madbodhi is offline
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Stock axles ok with 6.0 swap?

Would my stock Dana 44's be good to go with 35's and a 6.0 swap?It's being built as an into the wild expedition rig for extended family camping trips. I don't foresee real hardcore wheeling,more overgrown fire roads and rough terrain but I do see being WAY out from civilization for extended periods where a busted drivetrain is bad juju.So a healthy margin of strength is key without adding too much weight that will kill my gas mileage (the main reason for the engine swap).But I will go with heavier axles if the conventional wisdom say's their a better choice.
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:51 PM
kevin-M715 kevin-M715 is offline
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Your HP and torque has almost doubled depending on your previous motor on a drive train that is I'm guessing 20+ years old. Strength can be an issue!

The 6.0 is a great motor and loves to rev(I have a GTO with one of these motors) I would start looking for 1ton stuff now, but run what you have until then. You might be fine strength wise with the 44's but when 20 miles from a paved road. Piece of mind is worth a slight decrease in MPG.
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:09 PM
Madbodhi Madbodhi is offline
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I have a 14 bolt FF rear I can use but what about the front? Any diffrence strength wise from a FSJ 44 and a Chevy HD44 ? I know a Dana 60 would be the logical step but their abit rare in these parts.
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:22 PM
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anything full float is the way to go for an expedition vehicle that or carry a set of rear shafts for the dana 44. the dana 44 in my opinion is better than a 10 bolt which is what chevy uses in their 1/2 tons with 6.0's but some will argue differently.

change out the spindles/ rotors on your dana 44 to go to chevy 8 lug stuff and you'll be goot to go with corp 14 in the rear
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  #5  
Old 01-19-2009, 01:24 PM
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4x4fEvEr 4x4fEvEr is offline
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If you aint rockcrawling leave the axles in. At the very very least swap in a HD44 and D60 from a j-20 but I wouldn't do that unless you are really insecure. Just change all u-joints and regear to match the taller 35's, but if you want more get bling shafts and yukon super joints. D44's are fine for 35's and moderate wheeling. The main thing is knowing when to let off and pull cable
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Old 01-20-2009, 05:51 AM
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There is really no strength difference between the HD44 and normal 44. I would run what you have and see how you like it. As long as your easy on the go pedal you should be good.
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:30 PM
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It all depends how you push the skinny pedal. Just because you have twice the power, doesn't mean you will use it.
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  #8  
Old 01-21-2009, 02:39 PM
Madbodhi Madbodhi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuka
Just because you have twice the power, doesn't mean you will use it.


HAHA, .Your'e talking about a guy who's first car was a 68 Barracuda with a 440.When I lived in Cali i'd take her canyon carving through Turnbull canyon and Azuza canyon.Did half my steering with the skinny pedal.Of course i'm much older and wiser now .
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  #9  
Old 01-21-2009, 02:50 PM
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Lindel Lindel is offline
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Run em, if they don't break then you have your answer, if they do, then you still have your answer, but will have had that much time to get the axles you're probably wanting to upgrade to anyway...
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  #10  
Old 01-21-2009, 09:54 PM
imiceman44 imiceman44 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madbodhi
Would my stock Dana 44's be good to go with 35's and a 6.0 swap?It's being built as an into the wild expedition rig for extended family camping trips. I don't foresee real hardcore wheeling,more overgrown fire roads and rough terrain but I do see being WAY out from civilization for extended periods where a busted drivetrain is bad juju.So a healthy margin of strength is key without adding too much weight that will kill my gas mileage (the main reason for the engine swap).But I will go with heavier axles if the conventional wisdom say's their a better choice.

I ran 1/2 ton axles with lockers fr/rr 35" tires in a Heavy K5 and a 5.9 l turbo diesel for 6 years, the only thing I broke was the frame.
I wasn't a jerk but I wasn't too nice to it either, and it had a manual tranny so not easy on the drivetrain.
I would stick with the axles you have, but if you want a little more security I would do the 14bff rear and change your hubs to 8 lug on the front, and maybe aloy shafts
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