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Old 02-27-2011, 11:17 AM
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ECU Power for TBI

I want to make sure I am using the right source for my ECU power on my 88. I know that one of the wires that needs to be hot all of the time can go to the starter sel. The othere switched source I have read can be pulled from the ignition switch. I thought that it was a "pink heavy wire". I do not have this wire that I can find that is hot in crank, and run. I do have a red wire, but in crank falls out. I did find a smaller,14 gauge or so, that does this. Am I missing something.

Thanks.
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88 Grand. 360, BJs ?" lift (Removed a spring in each pack)front, rear getting 1 linked and 1/4 eliped, cage on its way, 35"X14.5" Boggers, 3.73' s, spool rear, ARB front w/ cromo shafts, OBA, TBI. 12k MileMarker winch.
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:29 AM
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power wire

are you running the stock ignition? you can pull power from the two wire plug at the stock ignition module. you could likely tap off for the TBI from there even if you are running stock ign., just test the two terminals to find the one with power. The ignition side of the solenoid doesn't carry full voltage always (if ever), but there is glorious voltage to be had at the old ignition module, made a huge difference to my HEI when I hooked to that wire.
pete
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:58 PM
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I would not recommend running too many devices directly through the ignition switch. You should have a relay for the injectors, and one for the fuel pump and oxygen sensor. Both of them should have power on "RUN" and "CRANK" - I would splice the ignition switch RUN/CRANK wire to both of the relays (terminal 86) and then give the ECU power from the injector relay (splice 87).

Here's a fuse panel I'm working on, not sure if you have one already (fuse block can be found here):



Alternatively, you could put the battery fuse inline and closer to the + terminal if that makes you feel safer. However, if the fuse panel is located as close to the battery as possible, using the fuse block shouldn't be an issue, and looks a lot better.
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Last edited by PlasticBoob : 02-27-2011 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasticBoob
I would not recommend running too many devices directly through the ignition switch. You should have a relay for the injectors, and one for the fuel pump and oxygen sensor. Both of them should have power on "RUN" and "CRANK" - I would splice the ignition switch RUN/CRANK wire to both of the relays (terminal 86) and then give the ECU power from the injector relay (splice 87).

Here's a fuse panel I'm working on, not sure if you have one already (fuse block can be found here):



Alternatively, you could put the battery fuse inline and closer to the + terminal if that makes you feel safer. However, if the fuse panel is located as close to the battery as possible, using the fuse block shouldn't be an issue, and looks a lot better.

....or you could do that....'cause it's NICE!
what relays are you using?
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:08 AM
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As of today I only have a relay for the fuel pump. It was part of a kit from an electric fan from back in the day. I have a circut breaker on it. I ordered a new Howell harness since the one I bought as part of a TBI kit on E Bay is all wrong. That being said I do not know what other relays I will have. Does the Howell harness come with relays for the the o2, and injectors? I let them know I am running a three wire o2. It should be in my hands today. I have heard talk of relays for these items. I way like the fuse block. I am planning to gut most of the wiring I do not need under the hood. I was trying to have her togther for a run this Saturday in Indiana, but we will be taking the GF XJ instead.

FullSize - I am not running the stock ignition. I put a DUI HEI on years ago when I first rebuilt the motor.
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88 Grand. 360, BJs ?" lift (Removed a spring in each pack)front, rear getting 1 linked and 1/4 eliped, cage on its way, 35"X14.5" Boggers, 3.73' s, spool rear, ARB front w/ cromo shafts, OBA, TBI. 12k MileMarker winch.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:54 PM
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I'm gonna try to dig out the box with the parts in it, as I've owned it since August (BJ's), and have yet to install it. I may have time tonight, not sure. There are, obviously, lots of options concerning fuse blocks and relay blocks, automotive and otherwise. NOT saying this is the only way to go, but you could check Boat US or Byfield marine supply for the electrical materials. A little pricey in places but stranded, tinned wire ain't cheap to make. They have some nice fuse blocks, heat shrink terminals, some nice stuff that allows a lot of custom options. NOT all the parts are "quality", stay away from switches; mostly mexican made and not by mexicans that care! Yes I know there are tons of electrical materials out there....just more resourses.
p
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