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  #1  
Old 03-17-2010, 07:30 PM
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1980 Jeep J10 Honcho preserve and Restore, Pictures, updated almost weekly

http://picasaweb.google.com/BBQ.WartHog/JeepJ10Honcho#

Link to restoration project of "Dad's last Jeep pickup.

1980 Jeep J10 Honcho

Started Feb 2nd, 2010

Stripping to bare metal, sealing with PM Industries, Master Craft Primer, (rolling it on with a foam roller) Inside engine compartment, frame, and under body,
using their top coating, AG111 for inside of engine compartment, and under body, including frame.

I am keeping a somewhat detailed log of the project, and taking a lot of pictures.

What will be updated on this link is weekly progress. It might update daily, might be two weeks, but it will update.

I would appreciate any comments as to what I am not doing correctly. I am a carpenter, not a body man. I have worked as a flat rate mechanic in a Chrysler Plymouth garage, so I know a bit about that, but the body / restoration and finding parts is all new to me.

I do not have a garage that I can put the complete truck in, so I am taking a couple of parts at a time, into my wood shop and restoring them. I took off the bed of the "Parts truck" and built a box on it to store the restored part in.

So Far, since Feb 2nd, I have the front clip sealed, finished inside, and primmered ready to sand, spot putty and paint. The doors and tailgate are on the bench now.

Thanks for your help

WH

Last edited by WHSII : 10-09-2011 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Add presereve and Restore to title
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  #2  
Old 03-19-2010, 07:28 PM
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Rust is ugly

Pulled the fenders and fairings off of the street side bed today, you can see the frame rust clearly on the pictures link.

WH

Last edited by WHSII : 03-19-2010 at 07:31 PM.
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2010, 08:18 PM
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Tailgate fix looks good. What are the weld pictures of (2 I think) of right before that?
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2010, 10:10 PM
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WOW, what did you have in mind for that frame?
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christiansok
Tailgate fix looks good. What are the weld pictures of (2 I think) of right before that?

Hello Christiansok,

That is the bottom of the door, it has pin holes, well around 1/8" dia that have rusted from the outside of the door, inside. I cleaned and used 50 / 50 solder to repair. The larger holes have tin as a back plate, bent to the shape, then soldered.

Kind of old school repair.

WH
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowJeep
WOW, what did you have in mind for that frame?

Hello YellowJeep,

My parts truck has an excellent frame, thus the restoration. This damage was noticed about six months ago, and luckily the parts truck fell into my lap.

WH
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2010, 01:22 PM
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Pictures updated:

Rear fiberglass fenders are repaired, lines straightened, and ready for final sanding and paint.

It took much longer than I thought to get the glass rear fenders into shape. cleaning of the paint did some damage that I had to correct.

Once I had them repaired, I primed them and looked, and looked, and looked! found by using a straight edge, my bad spots jumped out. Fortunately, the repairs of each fender was not in the same place, so I could measure and straightedge the area off of the good one, and make the repair on the bad one, the same.

When I found a dip in the glass, I cut glass mat and layered it, to raise and area 1/16". I would cut mat in the shape of the area, a third the length, then cut another piece the full length, and glass them in at the same time, of course sanding before glassing. A touch of spot putty made it look good! If I had to raise a section an eight, I would probably use four to five layers of mat. Stepping out each layer a bit for each layer. Woven cloth might take several more.

I have worked with fiberglass with RC aircraft in the past, but it was a challenge to make something this big, straight and true.

I have for fun, included some pictures of the parts hut, it is getting full! It is located next to the great pyramid, in Egypt!!! LOL

After working on stripping metal, the fiberglass was tough, much softer, and more delicate. You need to be careful, sanding is much better than grinding, fine sanding is much better than course.

Played around with wet sanding a section or two, they will finish out very well!

Soaking the fairings around the rear fenders in Kerosene, to remove the undercoating, they are small enough to put into a tub. It works wonders letting them sit over night. Putty knife removes the undercoating to the original paint. I would probably leave the undercoat, if repairs did not have to be made.

$1267.55 spent to date
244.5 hrs spent to date
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




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Last edited by WHSII : 04-24-2010 at 02:53 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-25-2010, 03:52 AM
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Great job

keep the photos coming!
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  #9  
Old 04-25-2010, 05:38 AM
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Making some good progress!
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  #10  
Old 04-25-2010, 07:25 AM
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That's quite a project! Hope the bed was in much better shape than the frame.
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  #11  
Old 04-25-2010, 07:33 AM
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wow, i can't tell you how much i hate body work. nice work
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  #12  
Old 04-25-2010, 09:09 AM
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The bed

From what I can tell, the bed has some surface rust, and only one hole, that was underneath the roll bar, about 1 inch long, and an eight inch wide. I feel that I can solder it with no problems.

The cab has me worried, I pulled the seats and the floor boards are trash. I really thought they were solid. I guess that is why the make replacement pans though. Any thoughts on who supplies a good replacement part?

One cab corner needs some work, and one corner of the eye brow also needs work.

Slowly but surly, I am knocking out the rust.

Thanks,
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




Founding Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
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  #13  
Old 04-25-2010, 10:21 AM
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bjs supplies good pans for floorboards but if that dont work then id use so 16 guage and rivet or weld it in worked in my truck and if the supports under them are rotted use some l bar with a C channel piece of steel in the middle works good and looks good to me atleast
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  #14  
Old 04-25-2010, 10:48 AM
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Thanks Eli,

I will check out BJ's and consider the 16 ga metal.

Thanks,
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




Founding Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2010, 05:34 PM
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A milestone for me, bed is off

I have the roll bar on the bench, all paint removed, cleaned, the metal is being etched.

It was nice outside, so I started to pull the bed off of Dad's J10.
It took me half a day to get the bed off of the parts truck once the bolts were out, It is a Town side. The Step Side was off in 15 minutes! I took both off by myself.

Pictures updated.

Thanks for looking, if you see something I am not doing correctly, let me know.

Thanks,
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




Founding Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:53 AM
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Picture update

Bed is ready for sealer and primer on the outside and sealer and urethane on the bottom. The undercoat was a Bear! Waiting for more primer and urethane to arrive...

I removed the cab from the new frame today, pulled the axles and set it on saw horses temporarily until I can build something more substantial.

Progress, slow but sure...
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




Founding Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
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  #17  
Old 05-31-2010, 11:42 AM
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WOW! Awesome work
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:31 PM
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Looking good
Need something like a frames to hang it from.
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  #19  
Old 06-02-2010, 12:32 AM
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cool - keep it up :-)

i'm around 1500hours total on a resto + 300hours bodywork. let's see if you can keep it under that? :-)

good luck

d
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  #20  
Old 06-02-2010, 03:05 PM
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Hello Dan,

I have not separated body work from restoration, I have been soldering all holes so far, and just using a bit of spot putty for leveling.

Having the frame on the horses has lifted my spirits greatly! I am tired of all the cleaning and wire brushing... Busting a few bolts loose was good therapy.

Have not added up the hours lately, worked most of the Memorial day weekend, should be close between 450 to 475 hrs to date. I beleive I could beat your time, but I would have to short cut... I want it to be as close to your level as I can make it.

Thanks
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




Founding Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

Last edited by WHSII : 06-02-2010 at 03:10 PM.
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