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  #21  
Old 05-27-2019, 06:10 PM
fsj454 fsj454 is offline
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Baldwin B 9

The filter u are using is very good I wish I could get some for a reasonable price.. 5 star filter. The break in oil is it conventional or synthetic and what weight. I purchased a Lunati and had it hardened for a extra 100.00 bucks cheap insurance on my big block chevy . .I hope things workout for you Bill
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1982 cherokee nt. 454. nv4500 .205. dana 60 f+r. twin stick.hydroboost.hydrolic clutch.rock ram.traction bar.warn 12000 winch.4 wheel disc.flip kit.soa.high steer.cross over steer.4.56 detroit locker.35 spline rear alloy axles. 37s .1990 grand wagoneer aka trusty rusty
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  #22  
Old 05-31-2019, 02:36 PM
fsj454 fsj454 is offline
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update

Hey how are you making out with top end noise .
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1982 cherokee nt. 454. nv4500 .205. dana 60 f+r. twin stick.hydroboost.hydrolic clutch.rock ram.traction bar.warn 12000 winch.4 wheel disc.flip kit.soa.high steer.cross over steer.4.56 detroit locker.35 spline rear alloy axles. 37s .1990 grand wagoneer aka trusty rusty
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  #23  
Old 06-01-2019, 08:14 AM
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posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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I replaced the oil with the Rotella 15W40 and started it up and ran it for a couple minutes. I didn’t really notice the sound anymore (or at least it didn’t sound as bad) but the engine did not get fully up to temp. The plan is to drive it this weekend to get it up to temp and see what it sounds like. Rick has sent me a set of slightly longer pushrods that I will I stalk after doing the first test drive to see if that solves everything. Hopefully I have updates within the week
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  #24  
Old 06-01-2019, 11:07 AM
fsj454 fsj454 is offline
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pushrods

When I rebuilt my 1990 360 the only thing I reused was pushrods because they make 3 different sizes for different years . When I measured preload I had 25 thousands and was within range and I had no problems .Knock on Wood.......
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1982 cherokee nt. 454. nv4500 .205. dana 60 f+r. twin stick.hydroboost.hydrolic clutch.rock ram.traction bar.warn 12000 winch.4 wheel disc.flip kit.soa.high steer.cross over steer.4.56 detroit locker.35 spline rear alloy axles. 37s .1990 grand wagoneer aka trusty rusty

Last edited by fsj454 : 06-01-2019 at 03:18 PM.
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  #25  
Old 06-03-2019, 04:41 PM
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posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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Alright one more update. I drove the truck this weekend and I don't think I am hearing the noise anymore (or at least its way less loud) but I have been listening so closely to the engine in the past couple weeks I am not sure what is normal anymore haha. I started the engine up again tonight and got it up to 165 degrees I think the sound is a lot more mellow. I took a mechanics stethoscope and placed all around the valve covers its sounds like everything is running pretty smooth in there. When I put it up to the headers and flanges it sounds more like the noise I was hearing. I am assuming with headers the noises are harsher then with manifolds. Maybe what I have been hearing is just the loudness of the headers?

One thing I did notice is the passenger side header and exhaust seem to be shaking quite a bit, hangers seem good though.

I am going to take the valve covers off again and check how easily the pushrods spin before replacing with the longer pushrods. To be honest I am just not sure what is normal and what is not. This is my first classic car so I am a noob in this department. Rick has been awesome in trying to help me diagnose. When I know more I will update.
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  #26  
Old 06-03-2019, 08:08 PM
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PlasticBoob PlasticBoob is offline
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Good to be diligent and investigate it, but IMHO you are chasing ghosts (problems that aren't really problems). It's true that thicker oil definitely helps quiet it down slightly [yes, I tried that, along with pushrods and everything else anyone can think of], but on the first hot summer day after you've been driving around for a good long while, the sewing machine will be back haha.

I know it can drive you crazy - can you take another video under the same conditions as the first and let us see if we notice a difference between the two videos?

The only thing I haven't tried yet is adding an oil cooler, as the noise only appears either when the oil gets hot, or when the actual metals in the valvetrain get to full operating temperature (which takes a lot longer than you think).
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1974 Cherokee S, fuel injected 401, Trans-am Red, Aussie locker 'out back'
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  #27  
Old 06-14-2019, 03:18 PM
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posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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Ok sorry for the delay in updates I have been busy trying to figure this thing out. After the oil change I think the sound was a tiny bit better but still there. Rick ended up sending me slightly longer pushrods to replace the current ones.

During the replacement I found 1 bent pushrod on the exhaust side which is obviously not good. After talking with Rick we decided to continue to replace all the pushrods because the sound did not seem like it was infrequent enough to just be isolated to one cylinder.

After replacing the pushrods I will say I think the noise is quieter but still there.

Here is a video of the engine in the same conditions as the first video (engine temp around 175) with the new oil and pushrods.

https://youtu.be/Im5mqO3XE1g

What are your thoughts? Could it just be the headers letting more valve train noise through then manifolds? It definitely gets louder as the engine heats up.

I think the plan is to drive it a little more and then pull the valve covers again and check for bent pushrods.
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  #28  
Old 06-20-2019, 10:00 PM
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PlasticBoob PlasticBoob is offline
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Sounds exactly the same to me. The bent pushrods were a weird red herring. Keep us updated.
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1974 Cherokee S, fuel injected 401, Trans-am Red, Aussie locker 'out back'
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  #29  
Old 07-13-2019, 04:57 AM
fsj454 fsj454 is offline
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Top End

Please up date ... I now about top end noise on my BBC and found for me that Amsoil Z rod 10-30 oil works the best in my motor.
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1982 cherokee nt. 454. nv4500 .205. dana 60 f+r. twin stick.hydroboost.hydrolic clutch.rock ram.traction bar.warn 12000 winch.4 wheel disc.flip kit.soa.high steer.cross over steer.4.56 detroit locker.35 spline rear alloy axles. 37s .1990 grand wagoneer aka trusty rusty
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  #30  
Old 07-13-2019, 05:45 AM
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I changed to the longer pushrods that Rick sent me and put in Rotella 15W40 and it helped with the noise a little I think. I have about 50 miles on the new pushrods now. About a week ago I re checked the pushrods on the passenger side to see if any of them were bent and they are all good (have not re checked driver side). Its still noisier then I would want though and it only happens after the engine is warm.

With it only happening when the engine is warm I wouldn't think its an exhaust leak problem, although I want to do a thorough check for exhaust leaks again using the vacuum in the exhaust spacing all the connection points with soapy water trick

I have not been able to really pinpoint where the noise is coming from. I know its not the injectors as I have pin pointed that sound using a stethoscope and its a different rhythm then the main noise I am hearing. The main sound I am hearing changes with RPM. I need to keep searching and trying to figure this out. I keep driving then pulling back up to my house and try to locate the sound exactly but its tough. The thin headers I am sure are not helping but it just doesn't seem normal, I just don't know. I don't have enough experiences with these engines to know what is normal.
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  #31  
Old 07-13-2019, 06:00 AM
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SC/397 SC/397 is offline
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It sounds better to me. The bent push rod is troublesome. My thought is that by being too short, it jumped out of it's pocket and maybe got bent on from the guide area in the head trying to hold it in place. If it was a single lifter issue, the noise would stand out as only one event. The noise sounds even to me. Those type of aftermarket valve covers are not as good as the stock ones for masking valve train noise. They make the valve train noise sound worse in my opinion. Keep running it and if it gets worse we will have to look deeper in to the valve train.

Last edited by SC/397 : 07-13-2019 at 06:06 AM.
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  #32  
Old 07-13-2019, 06:04 AM
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Thanks for all your help Rick! (I still need to send you that pushrod I totally forgot ) I still have the original valve covers, maybe I put them back on to see if it helps with the noise. I am and will continue to run it and monitor the noise. All the power is there and its a ton of fun to drive!!
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  #33  
Old 07-14-2019, 08:36 PM
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seventynine seventynine is offline
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FWIW...when I rebuilt the 360 in my '79 Wag about 20 years ago I had a very similar sound. It drove me nuts...I was all over it with a stethoscope so many times I lost my perspective. I changed out the pushrods and had the valve covers off a bunch of times. I just gave up on it eventually. It ran great...and still runs great. It's in one of my CJ's now. I dont know if it still ticks or not...I haven't thought about it in 20 years ;->
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  #34  
Old Yesterday, 01:42 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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The ticking sounds too fast to be valvetrain to me. It really seems to have the same rhythm the injectors would have.
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