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View Poll Results: What gear ratio do your run with your 35" tires
4.10 75 44.12%
4.56 58 34.12%
Stock gears 23 13.53%
Other 14 8.24%
Voters: 170. You may not vote on this poll

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  #21  
Old 08-05-2010, 10:23 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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4.27's?
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  #22  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:21 AM
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overland_YJ overland_YJ is offline
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i have a 90 GW, freshened 360, TF727, 4:10's, 35-12.50 tires, ARB in front and lock-rite in the rear.

i pull a (1600lbs) camping tent trailer sometimes, i also pull a car hauler with trail rig on it sometimes (5500lbs total), do some mild wheelin and it gets about 50/50 on road and off road. i was stock with 3:31's so figured the jump of almost a full ratio to 4:10's would be a big differance..... it wasn't. i wish i had gone to the 4:56's. i still might. the biggest time i wish i had gone lower is on those long hills pulling the heavy trailer, the small trailer is not as bad but i still wish i had gone lower. even when i am not pulling a trailer there are times i could use the lower gears.

these things arent race cars, you'll like the lower gears better IMHO.
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  #23  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:47 AM
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4.10's. for highway/offoad. I have them with 33's for now...and bought them knowing I'd go to 35's or 36's. With the doubled ratio in 4lo it's plenty of gear.
If I throw a T-18(T-18A if I can get one) and/or a dana 300 (4:1 would be sweet) I'll go to 36's and have good highway miles and lots of grunt for wheelin.
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  #24  
Old 08-06-2010, 12:31 PM
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I run 3.73's with 33's which gets me back to the stock gearing (which was 29" tires with 3.31 gears). Hwy rpms are 2600-2800 depending on speed. Never feel like I'm winding out the engine too much. Power isn't superb on the mountain climbs, but glad I went with that gearing instead of 4.10's because I'm pretty sure it'd bug me to be spinning 3000+ rpm at hwy speeds.

Michael

PS: I can also shift into 2nd running around 55-65 without feeling like something will explode, and 2nd solves power problems on the mountain climbs.
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2010, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shimniok
I run 3.73's with 33's which gets me back to the stock gearing (which was 29" tires with 3.31 gears). Hwy rpms are 2600-2800 depending on speed. Never feel like I'm winding out the engine too much. Power isn't superb on the mountain climbs, but glad I went with that gearing instead of 4.10's because I'm pretty sure it'd bug me to be spinning 3000+ rpm at hwy speeds.

Michael

LOL, the solution is to turn up the radio, then you can't hear the engine.
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  #26  
Old 08-06-2010, 12:51 PM
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I run 3.54 with 33 MTs and spin 2800-3000 from 55-70, 3500+ from there up.

There is a difference with an auto and a stick too which gearing you want to use.
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  #27  
Old 08-06-2010, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68
I run 3.54 with 33 MTs and spin 2800-3000 from 55-70, 3500+ from there up.

There is a difference with an auto and a stick too which gearing you want to use.

I was thinking that too, I looked at that neat little gear ratio calculator, and it shows 3rd gear in the 727 and 4th gear with the T18 both to have a 1.00 ratio. not sure if that matters or not.
the rpms at 65 are only a couple hundred different with 4.10's and 35's.
727 showing 2500 and T18 showing 2700. not sure why the difference if both are 1.00 in the top gear.
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'89 GW deceased
Ford 4spd swap Np435/205
Lifted/stretched on 36's/4.10 thick gears/spooled rear

'86 CJ-7 Renegade, Restored, original steel.
new Built TBI 258/Np435/D300 twin-sticks/Waggy D44's
37" Super Swampers and lots of goodies!
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  #28  
Old 08-06-2010, 01:38 PM
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I would think it'd be a matter of the auto slush and using a liquid filled torque converter, vs a static unvarying load on a gear driven stick transmission.
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  #29  
Old 08-06-2010, 08:40 PM
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I really like 410s on my 35s. I wouldn't go any lower. Its low end power vs top end speed
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  #30  
Old 08-06-2010, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutterN55
I was thinking that too, I looked at that neat little gear ratio calculator, and it shows 3rd gear in the 727 and 4th gear with the T18 both to have a 1.00 ratio. not sure if that matters or not.
the rpms at 65 are only a couple hundred different with 4.10's and 35's.
727 showing 2500 and T18 showing 2700. not sure why the difference if both are 1.00 in the top gear.

That sounds wrong. The non-lockup torque converter will mean slightly higher rpms than the manual, if anything. If the calculator isn't sophisticated enough to consider/predict torque converter slip then they should be exactly the same.
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  #31  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68
I would think it'd be a matter of the auto slush and using a liquid filled torque converter, vs a static unvarying load on a gear driven stick transmission.
It depends on the condition of the clutch & pressure plate on the manual and the overall condition of the auto tranny. I gained about 1.7 mpg when I put the rebuilt 727 in my GW. Is there an option to select worn out 727?
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  #32  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shimniok
That sounds wrong. The non-lockup torque converter will mean slightly higher rpms than the manual, if anything. If the calculator isn't sophisticated enough to consider/predict torque converter slip then they should be exactly the same.

Hey I switched the RPMs with the 727 and the T18. Had a rough few days.
The T18 was showing 2550 and the 727 showed 2700 at 65mph with the same data.
I used the Grimmjeeper calculator and here was my inputs...

727
NP229
4.10's
35's

T18
NP208
4.10's
35's

Both T-cases have same Lo ratio's I think... 2.61

The T-18 is lower by a little under 200 RPM's at 65, but I'm still not sure why if they both have a 1.0 ratio at final drive gear. Maybe it's the torque converter like you said.
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ROMANS 12:1-2

Military guys- Check out www.MilitaryJeepers.com

'89 GW deceased
Ford 4spd swap Np435/205
Lifted/stretched on 36's/4.10 thick gears/spooled rear

'86 CJ-7 Renegade, Restored, original steel.
new Built TBI 258/Np435/D300 twin-sticks/Waggy D44's
37" Super Swampers and lots of goodies!

Last edited by CutterN55 : 08-06-2010 at 11:44 PM.
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  #33  
Old 08-07-2010, 07:10 AM
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One thing I'm surprised nobody asked including me (Unless I over looked it) is what is the vehicle going to be used for?

Obviously on-road, but how much off-road are you going to be doing and is it just Class VI roads or something more challenging? Are you planning to go out once a month? Every weekend? Once In a while?

Why not same up for a underdrive unit (i.e. Black Box, Klune, etc.) then you can keep your gears for the street and still have plenty of gearing for off-road.
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  #34  
Old 08-07-2010, 09:38 AM
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50/50 on/off-road, snow and ice on-road in the winter. I like to drive to the closer trails but will trailer on the long haul trips (Ouray, Moab, New Mexico). I use to like to try the tougher trails but I am getting tired of tearing everything up so I usually do 8 out of 10 or below rated trails.
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  #35  
Old 08-07-2010, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srobertsfsj
50/50 on/off-road, snow and ice on-road in the winter. I like to drive to the closer trails but will trailer on the long haul trips (Ouray, Moab, New Mexico). I use to like to try the tougher trails but I am getting tired of tearing everything up so I usually do 8 out of 10 or below rated trails.

I double my vote for 4.56
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  #36  
Old 08-07-2010, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutterN55
The T-18 is lower by a little under 200 RPM's at 65, but I'm still not sure why if they both have a 1.0 ratio at final drive gear. Maybe it's the torque converter like you said.

That's the only thing that would make sense. And that's also pretty close to what I see on mine (727) altho I have a low stall converter so it is a little tighter. I am at ~ 2600 @ 65.
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  #37  
Old 08-08-2010, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srobertsfsj
50/50 on/off-road, snow and ice on-road in the winter. I like to drive to the closer trails but will trailer on the long haul trips (Ouray, Moab, New Mexico). I use to like to try the tougher trails but I am getting tired of tearing everything up so I usually do 8 out of 10 or below rated trails.

If you trust your FSJ to make the longer trips, 4.10 gears (maybe even 3.92 gears) and an underdrive unit or doubler would be great then. I know it's more money overall, but just some food for thought.
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  #38  
Old 08-08-2010, 07:11 AM
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I used to have a Scout II that was running 33's on the stock d44's with 4:10's. Stock 727.

It was geared to low on the hwy. Hwy speeds kinda sucked. Low range sucked as well because the crappy D20 'case only had a 2:1.

I think you should run some "thick" 4:10 gears in your stock axles on 35's.
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  #39  
Old 08-22-2010, 10:27 PM
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is this all based on stock motors? ill be running 4.10's and 35's but my motor has 450 flywheel hp estimated 350-385 wrhp. will be a 50/50 on/off road daily driver. not trying to jack the thread
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  #40  
Old 08-27-2010, 06:32 PM
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because it will see the road, go with 4.10s. more options that way in used axles, too.

Al
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