Strange Power Window Problem

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  • Brynjminjones
    258 I6
    • Jun 11, 2017
    • 475

    Strange Power Window Problem

    I've just discovered a newly developed quirk in my 1991.

    The driver's side rear window doesn't work from the driver's door, but does work from its own switch.

    However, it gets a touch more weird than that (of course)!

    When I operate that window from the driver's door, the voltage gauge drops like there's a huge load, so I know the switch is still trying to do something.

    I then thought to try both switches at the same time. When I operate the window from its own switch it moved nice and quickly, but if I use the switch on the driver's door at the same time it slows right down.

    How can the driver's door switch not be working, yet still causing a huge load on the system?
    1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

    1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
    1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
    1974 Ford F100 390
  • MysticRob
    350 Buick
    • Nov 26, 2019
    • 819

    #2
    Sounds like it's the driver side switch then, all other things, like the rear door wiring, being equal.
    I would remove the driver door panel and swap around the connectors for those windows and see if it's the switch or not.
    --Rob--
    1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan

    My build thread:
    https://forums.ifsja.org/forum/tire-...er-restoration

    My Howell TBI Install How-To:
    https://forums.ifsja.org/forum/tire-...rb-e-o-d-452-2

    Comment

    • Brynjminjones
      258 I6
      • Jun 11, 2017
      • 475

      #3
      Yeah, looks like I'll have to dig into it. It must be the switch I guess as it will go up but not down.

      I've had that b*stard door panel off about 5 times already this past week or so!
      1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

      1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
      1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
      1974 Ford F100 390

      Comment

      • Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
        Cherokee Outlaw
        • Jan 10, 2006
        • 7292

        #4
        High resistance in the drivers door switch. The contacts are probably corroded over. You can open them up and clean them.
        -Jonny B.
        1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
        7" Alcan springs, BJ's HD shackles - 35x12.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains
        AMC 401 - Pro-Flo 4 EFI
        NV4500/NWF BB/NP205 - Triple Stick'd
        F D44 - 4.10, Eaton E-Locker
        R M23 - 4.10, Detroit Locker

        1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
        1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
        1979 Wagoneer - Sold
        1981 Cherokee Chief - Cubed

        Comment

        • Brynjminjones
          258 I6
          • Jun 11, 2017
          • 475

          #5
          Unfortunately it looks like it's a little more weird than I thought!

          I've had the switches out and they tested fine. I hooked the rear switches up to the front windows and they worked perfectly.

          I also tried a known good switch on this window, and it still didn't work.


          When tested with a multimeter, I found that the two wires leading from this switch both had good continuity to ground.
          I'm guessing that there shouldn't be continuity when the window isn't operating?
          1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

          1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
          1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
          1974 Ford F100 390

          Comment

          • Brynjminjones
            258 I6
            • Jun 11, 2017
            • 475

            #6
            Right, I've been investigating a little further and have gotten stuck.

            I'm trying to follow the wires from the driver's door switch panel to the rear left power window.

            The wires in the driver's door are the correct color and I can follow them through the door jamb.
            However, I can't find them under the instrument panel.

            I'm following this page from Oljeep.

            The connector I can't find is the one circled:

            Power Windows by Brynjaminjones, on Flickr


            Any idea where to look?
            1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

            1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
            1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
            1974 Ford F100 390

            Comment

            • wiley-moeracing
              350 Buick
              • Feb 15, 2010
              • 1430

              #7
              Testing for power, ground and continuity only is half of what to check, you need to see what the voltage drop is and amperage draw to see if your wires are corroded or broken inside to get a complete answer. You can have just 1 strand of the wire ok and it will show power and ground but will not allow the proper amperage for the circuit when in use.

              Comment

              • Brynjminjones
                258 I6
                • Jun 11, 2017
                • 475

                #8
                Yes you're right - the reason I was trying to trace the wire was to find out where the short was as it seems like something was shorting to ground.

                Anyway, I've found the problem now - one of the wires on the rear door switch was shorting against the switch casing!
                Looks like some idiot (no idea who that could be!) may have damaged it whilst working in that door last week!

                I've also figured out why I couldn't trace the wires properly from the Oljeep diagrams - it looks like some of the diagrams are back to front!
                All the information for the rear right door was actually for the rear left, and vice versa!

                I was using the 1990 diagrams, and admittedly mine is a 1991, but that's the first thing I've found that isn't right.
                Hopefully that might be some useful info for somebody else in future!
                1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

                1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
                1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
                1974 Ford F100 390

                Comment

                • DarkMonohue
                  Shakes hands with danger
                  • Jul 01, 2012
                  • 1145

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Brynjminjones
                  I've also figured out why I couldn't trace the wires properly from the Oljeep diagrams - it looks like some of the diagrams are back to front!
                  All the information for the rear right door was actually for the rear left, and vice versa!
                  That may have something to do with the fact that your vehicle was built as RHD and the diagram probably assumes LHD.
                  '85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
                  Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
                  High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread

                  Did you know? Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.

                  Comment

                  • Brynjminjones
                    258 I6
                    • Jun 11, 2017
                    • 475

                    #10
                    Originally posted by DarkMonohue
                    That may have something to do with the fact that your vehicle was built as RHD and the diagram probably assumes LHD.
                    That would be a very good point, but I should point out that my GW is actually completely US spec and is LHD. We never got the later ones over here, so they're all imports
                    1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

                    1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
                    1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
                    1974 Ford F100 390

                    Comment

                    • DarkMonohue
                      Shakes hands with danger
                      • Jul 01, 2012
                      • 1145

                      #11
                      Ha! So much for that theory. I must have had yours confused with someone else's older FSJ.
                      '85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
                      Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
                      High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread

                      Did you know? Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.

                      Comment

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