Tailgate wiring question

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  • CoachDitka
    230 Tornado
    • May 15, 2003
    • 16

    Tailgate wiring question

    My tailgate glass has always been a bit tempermental, and last year the key-operated switch stopped working. The other day, the interior switch that usually works stopped working with the glass down. Normally a good open and close of the tailgate solves this problem, but not this time.

    I proceeded to take off the shag panel and access panel to see what I could see, which is not much since the glass is stuck down. What I did see was a black wire with a connector on the end that is just dangling from behind the glass. Does this need to go somewhere? My safety switch is already bypassed, so I was wondering if maybe this wire needs to be connected somewhere to ground the thing, but from what I read it is all grounded through the dash switch.

    I also read about how to get the glass out by removing the clips (somehow), but if I can get the thing up without having to break these as I would most likely do, it would be sweet.

    I guess my next step is to remove the tailgate switch and make sure things are at least making contact there?

    If anyone has or knows of a good wiring diagram that shows that area I would kill my own mother for a link...

    -Coach
    Totally stock \'84 GW, except for the non-stock dents I have put in it. Who cares how it looks, the boat gets towed and I can drive around the SUV\'s stuck in the sand to get to my fishing spot...
  • jc turtle
    258 I6
    • Dec 05, 2002
    • 336

    #2
    HI Coach, If the black plug is at the outer end of the glass, it may be for the heated glass. You should be able to get the clips off of the regulator arm posts with a long stout screw driver, then you would be able to remove the glass and check things out. Hope this helps, John

    Comment

    • andy d
      Shade Tree Shaman
      • May 06, 2000
      • 7205

      #3
      a 2' holesaw cut into the inside of the tail gate where the clips are greatly improves access. chances are the key switch has failed completely. wiring the front switch directly to the motor will prolly work. thats what both my 88s have.

      [ March 31, 2004, 11:13 AM: Message edited by: andy d ]
      \'88 gwag,pure stock

      Comment

      • hippymill
        258 I6
        • Oct 22, 2003
        • 432

        #4
        check your wiring in the black plastic tube on the drivers side of the tailgate atthe bottom. this is where the motor wiring passes from the tailgate to the body. i found my problem there. also, have you played with the safety switch by the drivers side latch on the tailgate while someone operates the switch?
        \'90 GW Money Pig<br /><br />\"Rock\'n\'Roll means well, but it can\'t help tellin\' young boys lies.\"

        Comment

        • CoachDitka
          230 Tornado
          • May 15, 2003
          • 16

          #5
          Well, I got the glass out successfully, and am ready to troubleshoot the wiring problem. My first question is, I seem to see a relay on the passenger side of the lift mechanism. What the hell is that thing, a relay to stop the motor when the glass is up and down?

          My second question is, has anyone replaced the key-operated switch, and if so, where can I score one and how much are they? I was going to bypass the thing, but then I decided it might be handy to have working again. Also, same question for the relay as to where and how much?

          Thanks for all the help, this place rocks!

          -Coach
          Totally stock \'84 GW, except for the non-stock dents I have put in it. Who cares how it looks, the boat gets towed and I can drive around the SUV\'s stuck in the sand to get to my fishing spot...

          Comment

          • Bob Barry
            Jeep Doctor
            • Apr 09, 2000
            • 8335

            #6
            That relay is for the defroster; the motor runs full current through the front and rear switch.

            Most likely, if both switches are not working, the plastic paddle on the tailgate switch has broken off its pivot-point and is causing an open circuit.

            There should be some troubleshooting posts in the archives.
            1987 J-20
            Video projects for my J-20 on Youtube

            Comment

            • CoachDitka
              230 Tornado
              • May 15, 2003
              • 16

              #7
              So I should have no problem just wiring the motor directly from the 2 wires coming from the dash switch for the time being, correct? I just don't want to overload something.

              Thanks!

              -Coach
              Totally stock \'84 GW, except for the non-stock dents I have put in it. Who cares how it looks, the boat gets towed and I can drive around the SUV\'s stuck in the sand to get to my fishing spot...

              Comment

              • Bob Barry
                Jeep Doctor
                • Apr 09, 2000
                • 8335

                #8
                Or you could just replace the switch; the replacement switch from Mopar has a metal paddle, much less likely to break.
                1987 J-20
                Video projects for my J-20 on Youtube

                Comment

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