AMC 327 Pertronix conversion w/ pics

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  • 44BZ
    304 AMC
    • Dec 10, 2009
    • 1570

    AMC 327 Pertronix conversion w/ pics

    This past weekend I dusted off the Pertronix kit to install on my stock distributor. It's a pretty simple conversion, but took me the entire weekend to finish because I decided to replace the vacuum advance as well and had to wait for it to come in. I used Pertronix part #1181 for Delco 8 cylinder distributors. I replaced the cap and rotor, which is recommended when installing the kit, with the MSD cap and rotor kit part #8442 from Summit Racing. I got the vacuum advance from Autozone for $10, part #DV1465, if anyone is interested.

    First remove the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor before removing the distributor. The distributor must be removed in order to check the air gap accurately once the kit is installed. I made a mark at the top of the shaft in line with the rotor, and then a mark at the base of the shaft and the corresponding gear tooth. The distributor is held in place by a steel bracket, which is easily removed after removing the single bolt.



    Once the distributor is out you can remove the rotor. The weights and the plate they are mounted to were very greasy so I cleaned it thorougly with carb cleaner and a toothbrush before installing the kit.



    Disconnect the condensor wire by removing this screw.



    Remove the points, which are held on by two screws. These screws need to be saved as they are used later to secure the Ignitor.



    Disconnect the condensor by removing one screw. The condensor can then be removed.



    Now you can install the kit. Start by installing the magnet ring, which slips over the weight assembly. The two threaded studs are then inserted through the holes in the weights base plate where the rotor screws had been attached previously.



    Next install the new rotor over the magnet ring studs and secure with the supplied washers and nuts.



    The Ignitor installs in the same location that the points were removed from. There is a small nub on the breaker plate, which fits into a hole in the Ignitor base. The Ignitor is in place when the two screw holes are aligned and the nub slips into the hole in the Ignitor base. This is what it looks like installed.



    Next check the gap between the Ignitor module and the magnet ring. The instructions are pretty specific about this measurement; the lowest gap no less than .010", then rotate the rotor to find the highest gap, which should be no greater than .060".



    The gaps need to be measured with the distributor gear at its lowest point in the shaft and also with the distributor gear pushed up. It's a slight difference, but the gap parameters are the same in both positions. The kit comes with washers to use as spacers for both the magnet ring and the distributor gear if needed. My gaps were fine without the spacers. A new grommet is supplied with the kit, which is installed in the underside of the distributor housing then run the Ignitor wires through.

    Lastly, I replaced the vacuum advance. This required that I remove the Pertronix kit and rotor, but by this stage in the conversion I could practically remove and install the kit with my eyes closed...I topped it off with the MSD cap, which fit perfectly. I also painted the distributor shaft after a good cleaning



    And that's it! Let me know what you guys think. This was a first for me (in so many ways) and I'm eager for feedback...
    Zack - 68 J2000, AMC 327, 4bbl intake, dual exhaust, Pertronix upgrade, Holley 600cfm, T18, dana 20 (twin sticked), 3" body lift w/ 35x12.50 MTRs ~ running AND driving!
  • Dmntxn77
    Hey watch this...
    • Nov 19, 2004
    • 8329

    #2
    Good write-up!

    When are you putting it on the Jeep? You will have to update us with results.

    Comment

    • 44BZ
      304 AMC
      • Dec 10, 2009
      • 1570

      #3
      Originally posted by Dmntxn77
      Good write-up!

      When are you putting it on the Jeep? You will have to update us with results.
      Thanks I ran out of time to install it today, but the wiring seems pretty straight forward. I will also be replacing the stock coil with a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil. Unfortunately, I won't be able to give an update on performance right away because I'm still waiting on a 4 barrel carb and to have my radiator rebuilt
      Zack - 68 J2000, AMC 327, 4bbl intake, dual exhaust, Pertronix upgrade, Holley 600cfm, T18, dana 20 (twin sticked), 3" body lift w/ 35x12.50 MTRs ~ running AND driving!

      Comment

      • fulsizjeep
        Señor Jackhead
        • Aug 21, 2002
        • 22496

        #4
        Good write up. The pertronix ignition upgrade and a 4 bbl make a big difference for the 327. No more fiddling with the points.
        Flint
        Ran when parked.
        http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac
        88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s with a few Evil Twin & TT's Fabworks mods
        76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
        http://eviltwinfab.com http://www.ttsfabworks.com

        Comment

        • Gambler68
          Rabble Rouser
          • Feb 29, 2004
          • 14083

          #5
          Nice job, I am ready to do mine now

          Going to link this for archiving.
          1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
          1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
          The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
          Hunter S. Thompson .

          Comment

          • 44BZ
            304 AMC
            • Dec 10, 2009
            • 1570

            #6
            Originally posted by fulsizjeep
            Good write up. The pertronix ignition upgrade and a 4 bbl make a big difference for the 327. No more fiddling with the points.
            I'm really counting on this! I can't wait to hear it run again
            Zack - 68 J2000, AMC 327, 4bbl intake, dual exhaust, Pertronix upgrade, Holley 600cfm, T18, dana 20 (twin sticked), 3" body lift w/ 35x12.50 MTRs ~ running AND driving!

            Comment

            • 44BZ
              304 AMC
              • Dec 10, 2009
              • 1570

              #7
              Originally posted by Gambler68
              Nice job, I am ready to do mine now

              Going to link this for archiving.
              It all went together perfectly. I think this is the first project so far that didn't need any modifying to come together. The MSD cap and rotor fit perfectly and seem to be constructed out of much better material than the old stockers. The MSD rotor sits over the weights unit whereas the stock rotor just sat on top, if that makes sense. I didn't notice any other differences in the way it all fit together...
              Zack - 68 J2000, AMC 327, 4bbl intake, dual exhaust, Pertronix upgrade, Holley 600cfm, T18, dana 20 (twin sticked), 3" body lift w/ 35x12.50 MTRs ~ running AND driving!

              Comment

              • Gambler68
                Rabble Rouser
                • Feb 29, 2004
                • 14083

                #8
                What was involved with replacing the vac advance cannister?
                1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
                1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
                The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
                Hunter S. Thompson .

                Comment

                • 44BZ
                  304 AMC
                  • Dec 10, 2009
                  • 1570

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Gambler68
                  What was involved with replacing the vac advance cannister?
                  I probably should have taken pics of that too I suppose, although there wasn't much to it. There are two small screws that attach it to the base of the housing. One came out fine, but the other was frozen to the vac advance so it took some work to get off. I replaced both screws with new. The vac advance has a rod coming out of the canister, which runs the length of the mounting bracket and turns up at the end. The "turned up end" fits into a hole in the points base. I had to bend the rod down to get the old unit out, but the new one slid in without too much fuss. And voila!
                  Zack - 68 J2000, AMC 327, 4bbl intake, dual exhaust, Pertronix upgrade, Holley 600cfm, T18, dana 20 (twin sticked), 3" body lift w/ 35x12.50 MTRs ~ running AND driving!

                  Comment

                  • glady8r
                    Banned
                    • Dec 31, 2007
                    • 355

                    #10
                    that looks nice I need to do that to mine

                    Comment

                    • Gambler68
                      Rabble Rouser
                      • Feb 29, 2004
                      • 14083

                      #11
                      Sweet! Yeah I remembered I had a 1968 Motors book that has ALL the dizzys made in it, was just looking at it. Good job!
                      1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
                      1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
                      The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
                      Hunter S. Thompson .

                      Comment

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