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Old 04-22-2010, 06:07 PM
Seemer Seemer is offline
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Rear Main Seal....anything else besides this?

I'm doing the oil pan gasket and RMS this weekend. Aside from the nice write-up below for RMS, is there anything else to be aware of / special tricks etc. to note? Tools that may help? Thanks a lot.





Rear Main Seal Replacement

Contributed By: Joe Schaefer
NOTE: This is from the 1973 Jeep Technical Service Manual J-73-1001 and applies to all 258/304/360 and 401 engines.
The rear main bearing crankshaft seal consists of a two piece neoprene single lip seal to effectively seal the rear of the crankshaft. Correct installation of the seal will insure leak free engine operation (Fig 36).
Removal and Installation

  1. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan.
  2. Remove the oil pan front and rear neoprene oil seals.
  3. Remove the oil pan side gaskets.
  4. Thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces of the oil pan and engine block.
  5. Remove all sludge and dirt from the oil pan sump.
  6. Remove the rear main bearing cap.
  7. Remove and discard the lower seal. IMPORTANT: To ensure leak free operation, the upper and lower seal halves must be replaced in pairs.
  8. Clean the main bearing cap thoroughly to remove all sealer.
  9. Loosen all remaining main bearing caps.
  10. With a brass drift and hammer, tap the upper seal until sufficient seal is protruding to permit pulling the seal out completely.
  11. Wipe the seal surface of the crankshaft clean; then oil lightly.
  12. Coat the block contacting surface at the upper seal with soap, and the lip of the seal with engine oil.
  13. Install the upper seal into the engine block. CAUTION: The lip of the seal must face to the front of the engine.
  14. Coat both sides of the lower seal end tabs with "Permatex" No. 2 or equivalent, being careful not to apply sealer to the lip of the seal.
  15. Coat the outer curved surface of the lower seal with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil.
  16. Install the seal into the cap recess and seat it firmly.
  17. Place "Permatex" No. 2, or equivalent, on both chamfered edges of the rear main bearing cap.
  18. Install the rear main bearing cap and inserts.
  19. Tighten all main bearing cap screws to the specified torque.
  20. Install oil pan using new gaskets and seals.
  21. Tighten the drain plug securely.
  22. Use new engine oil to fill the crankcase to the specified level.
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  #2  
Old 04-22-2010, 06:15 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Jack up the front end and support the frame rails on both sides so the front axle can hang down. Gives ya more room to get the pan out and back in.
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  #3  
Old 04-22-2010, 06:20 PM
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Wagonforever Wagonforever is offline
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Does this actually work on an old high milage engine? I would think there'd probably be a groove chewed into the crank from the original seal and thus would cause the new seal to leak.
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagonforever
Does this actually work on an old high milage engine? I would think there'd probably be a groove chewed into the crank from the original seal and thus would cause the new seal to leak.

I just pulled my engine apart with 109K, no grove on the crank.
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:10 PM
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Blinkinlights Blinkinlights is offline
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How about some pics:

Oil pan prior to cleaning



Rear main cap still on



Rear main cap off



Rear Main cap on the bench



Rear main seal being tapped out



The chamfered edge mentioned in the directions that nobody knew where it was



The new seal

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Old 04-22-2010, 07:12 PM
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Hope it doesn't leak afterwards...
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  #7  
Old 04-22-2010, 07:18 PM
Seemer Seemer is offline
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Leak

CJ - I went through 2.5 quarts during my 300 + mile drive home. It could only get better than that.

Nice pics Greg!! Thanks

Last edited by Seemer : 04-22-2010 at 07:22 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-23-2010, 05:25 PM
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Mark Wilde Mark Wilde is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seemer
CJ - I went through 2.5 quarts during my 300 + mile drive home. It could only get better than that.

Don't be too sure of that! Not questioning your ability, only the inevitable appearance of that Murphy guy.
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:30 AM
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No. 14 is very important. Do NOT glob it on there. Just a skim-coat.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


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  #10  
Old 04-24-2010, 03:10 PM
Seemer Seemer is offline
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Y Pipe?

Having a tough time getting the pan out with just the starter removed. Will it wiggle out or do I have to remove the Y pipe too?
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:21 PM
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newtojeeps newtojeeps is offline
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I have had to losen the y pipe to get mine out.
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:42 PM
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Sorry, forgot to mention that....some have had to take the h-pipe loose. I for one.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


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  #13  
Old 04-24-2010, 03:51 PM
Seemer Seemer is offline
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OK

OK- well the bolts are nothing but little rusted nubs so this should be fun. Just sprayed em with some PB but I'll probably have the get the hack saw out.
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Old 04-24-2010, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seemer
OK- well the bolts are nothing but little rusted nubs so this should be fun. Just sprayed em with some PB but I'll probably have the get the hack saw out.

If you have air tools, try an impact. Sometime the "jolt" is enough to free them loose.
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89GW360NP229Dana44
If you have air tools, try an impact. Sometime the "jolt" is enough to free them loose.

or shear them clean off at the manifold


Mine cam right loose with an impact but I snapped on off with a 3/8ths ratchet in one hand
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:42 PM
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that main bearing is in really good shape.

have fun with the oil pan. hope it seals. it took me three tries to get it right.
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  #17  
Old 04-25-2010, 01:41 PM
Seemer Seemer is offline
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Note

Note to self....always start by removing Y pipe first, if you can't remove Y pipe don't go any further. Well, I guess I kind of did this backwards with the starter out, the pan free but hung up etc. So far, no luck getting the bolts loose. Of course I have just the basic home hack tools....no air tools, torch etc.

More PB Blaster? bang the bolts harder? What gives?
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  #18  
Old 04-25-2010, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seemer
Note to self....always start by removing Y pipe first, if you can't remove Y pipe don't go any further. Well, I guess I kind of did this backwards with the starter out, the pan free but hung up etc. So far, no luck getting the bolts loose. Of course I have just the basic home hack tools....no air tools, torch etc.

More PB Blaster? bang the bolts harder? What gives?

Go buy a small hand torch and heat them up.
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Old 04-25-2010, 04:33 PM
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And when you re-install the y-pipe, put a good coating of anti-seize on there. I do it every time the y pipe comes off. Even if there's still some old anti-seize on it. You can't have enough of the stuff on those bolts!
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