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Old 09-15-2009, 03:11 AM
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cdlongjr cdlongjr is offline
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74 J-10 several tech questions

1. The canister that's mounted on the firewll & has a red line going to the fuel tank, where does the vacuum come from? The front port on the canister is open.With help from a Dave, I've gotten all the other vacuum hoses routed correctly.
2. Looking @ the parts diagrams, the 74 didn't have a cat. Is this correct? I have to replace the exhaust from the downpipe back.
3. I have to replace the steering column. PO broke the key off & used a chisel to disassamble the steering column. Is there a way to start & run my engine so I can check the engine & auto trans? Don't know when I'll get a steering column.
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Old 09-15-2009, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdlongjr
1. The canister that's mounted on the firewll & has a red line going to the fuel tank, where does the vacuum come from? The front port on the canister is open.With help from a Dave, I've gotten all the other vacuum hoses routed correctly.
On a '74 it should go to the snorkel on the factory air cleaner. Incoming air rushing over the end of the fitting in the snorkel creates a mild vacuum (Benoulli effect).

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2. Looking @ the parts diagrams, the 74 didn't have a cat. Is this correct? I have to replace the exhaust from the downpipe back.
Probably not. The only absolute way to know is from the 1974 factory manual. It will have a table showing what devices apply to which models and equipment. It changes a lot from year to year.

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3. I have to replace the steering column. PO broke the key off & used a chisel to disassamble the steering column. Is there a way to start & run my engine so I can check the engine & auto trans? Don't know when I'll get a steering column.

Can you turn the wheel? If so, you should be able to bypass the ignition pretty easily. A '74 should have points ignition, making a hot wire setup easy. At most, you'll need a ballast resistor and toggle switch. Run a wire from the positive post of the battery to the toggle switch, from the switch to the resistor, and from the resistor to the coil. Remove the usual ignition connection from the coil, leaving the other side connected to the distributor. Switch on, ignition on. To crank the engine, jumper the starter solenoid with one of your jumper cables or with a remote starter switch from the battery to the little "S" connection on the solenoid.

Note that this setup may run down your battery as it runs (no excitation of the alternator? Maybe...) and it will start in gear so make sure you are safe (in park or neutral, no one standing in front or behind the car) when you try it. Even better, have someone sitting in the car with their foot on the brake.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
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Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:10 AM
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Thank you sir! Hopefully he'll be running this weekend.
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