Choke problem...

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  • mwood65
    258 I6
    • Jul 17, 2017
    • 477

    Choke problem...

    I swear, this Wagoneer is going to drive me crazy.


    I rebuilt the 2100 on this 360 and it has a manual choke on it now.


    When I push the gas pedal to the floor and pull the choke cable the choke closes as it should but the fast idle cam doesn't move to set the fast idle.


    I can't see where anything is not hooked up but there must be a missing linkage or something.


    Any ideas or pictures of this set-up that may help me?
  • Ristow
    • Jan 20, 2006
    • 17292

    #2
    uits been a long time since i looked at a 2150 carb...but as i recall on the plastic fast idle cam,the tab breaks off on these now and then which renders them inoperable.
    Originally posted by Hankrod
    Ristows right.................again,


    Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
    ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


    Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
    I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

    It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

    Comment

    • Curly5759
      232 I6
      • Mar 08, 2015
      • 231

      #3
      Could be the choke unloader. When floored, the linkage would partially open the choke so a flooded engine could get fuel. It's possible the linkage is dropping the fast idle cam during WOT position. Try again, using a bit less throttle to set the choke.
      77 Cherokee S 360/TH400/QT

      Comment

      • tgreese
        • May 29, 2003
        • 11682

        #4
        Opening the throttle pulls the fast idle stop (adjustment screw) off of the fast idle cam. Once freed from the stop, the position of the cam is determined by how much you pull the choke cable (or originally, how much the bimetal spring was wound). From what I recall, Ristow is correct and there is a plastic tab that moves the fast idle cam. I can look at a junk carb later.

        Note this is all spring-loaded by the bimetal spring when original. The manual choke conversion changes this to a hard link. I'd guess you can break the plastic pivot and arm if you yank on the choke cable without opening the throttle.

        Look at 4-22 here. http://oljeep.com/gw/74_tsm/4-FuelCarburetion.pdf There are two adjustment screws, 71 and 73. Part 70 is plastic and I expect you can break it.

        Last edited by tgreese; 12-10-2018, 01:01 PM.
        Tim Reese
        Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
        Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
        Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
        GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
        ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

        Comment

        • FSJunkie
          The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
          • Jan 09, 2011
          • 4040

          #5
          Bad things happen when carburetors that were originally automatic choke are converted to manual choke. "Converted" isn't even an accurate term. "Molested" is more accurate.


          I've bought many cars that had manual choke conversions and the first thing I did to them was convert them back to automatic chokes....usually before I even wash them for the first time.
          '72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

          I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.

          Comment

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