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  #1  
Old 01-26-2011, 10:40 PM
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Mr.Wagoneer Mr.Wagoneer is offline
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Post Leaky Fuel Tank Fix (Pics)

I did these repairs a couple of months ago myself ( )
I thought I should get them on the net for any one who
might have similar problems and maybe starting to
consider doing unspeakable terrible jeep things....

First off, The Problem...
My 83 Wagon had a problem with the top two check valves on the fuel tank, for what ever reason they were not sealing the tank and were allowing fuel (When Full) and fuel vapors to escape..

So if your jeep is leaking fuel after a fill up these rubber grommets are definitely something of interest.

BJ's Off Road Sells new Grommets, very inexpensive and excellent quality. here is a Link

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/CartGenie/prod-204.htm

Alright Let's start. First off to make this easy your going to have to remove your fuel tank, Yes I know it sounds intimidating but it's a going to make this much easier.

First things first, Drain the tank the less fuel the better, though you won't be able to drain it all, you should do your best to drain it as empty as possible. Remember one gallon of gas can weigh over 6-lbs now multiply that by 20 and that could be 120-lbs



To get to the fuel level sending unit lift up the rear seat and carpet remove the cardboard insulation and unscrew the panel to reveal the unit.



Now if your forgetful like me, label each hose you disconnect with masking tape and mark it accordingly.

Below is a photo of the Access Hole



The sending Unit is held down by a large plastic locking nut that can be unscrewed and removed allowing for the removal of the sending unit. Be careful not to drop the rubber ring under the nut in the tank...Cause that would suck...

.

After the tank is drained you can now begin removal of the fuel tank.

First, disconnect the drive shaft to the rear axle there are four bolts that hold it together be ready to use some Liquid Wrench and plenty of it take your time with all bolts during this procedure. there's nothing more frustrating then a snapped bolt, Trust me I know...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
• After the Drive shaft is down set it out to the side away from the tank.

• Go ahead and remove the filler neck hoses from the tank.

• Be carefully to much force could crack the tank around the filler neck nipples.

• Now your gonna wanna prop the car up on some stands, pretty high if your jeeps at stock height, you'll need clearance for the tank to slide out.

• Next gently secure a floor jack with some 2x4's against the bottom of the tank so it doesn't fall to the ground and destroy everything within a 20 mile radius.
Haha just kidding...OR AM I?

• Begin removing the two bolts at the rear passenger side of the tank, you may have noticed them when removing the drive shaft.

• Last couple of bolts now are along the Driver side of the car along the Chassis rail remove all bolts to free the tank.

• Once this is done you can now lower the tank it has to come out at an angle since it's molded into the rail of the chassis. the front check valve line
should have enough slack to drop to the floor and then be disconnected from the valve the rear valve should be disconnected before lowering the tank
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



It's out...

Now for the grommets, There are two of them one up front and one in back.



Above is the back of the tank below is the front of the tank.



With the tank out the check valves should be removed from their Grommets and replaced with new ones I sealed my new ones with liquid gasket to be extra sure



Now putting these suckers back in is a royal pain in the @$$ so if you liquid gasket them let them Dry first.

(WARNING BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL; IT IS VERY EASY TO LOOSE THESE GUYS IN THE TANK AND EVEN BREAK THEM WHEN USING FORCE TO INSTALL)

If you can practice putting them in with the old Gourmets before the new ones then that would be best.

I had to use a flat head to help persuade mine into position.

.
Front




Rear

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


After that the real fun begins putting it back in!

Installation is reverse of removal enjoy and I hope this helps!

__________________
Year: 1983
Make: AMC/Jeep
Model: Wagoneer
Trim: Limited
• AMC 360 5.9 Liter
• MotorCraft 2150 2 BBL Carb
• TF-727 3 Speed Automatic
• NP-229 Select-Trac Full/Part time transfer case
• Dana 44 Front Driver side drop AMC 20 Rear
• 109 in. Wheelbase
• 5975/6200 Lbs GVWR
• Manufactured in Toledo Ohio




Last edited by Mr.Wagoneer : 01-27-2011 at 01:48 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-26-2011, 11:21 PM
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amcpsycho2 amcpsycho2 is offline
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I love it when a plan comes together!Good job!
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  #3  
Old 01-27-2011, 07:54 AM
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Nice write up, and excellent observation about the leak.
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  #4  
Old 01-28-2011, 12:56 AM
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jeeper54 jeeper54 is offline
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I've been thinking about replaceing some fuel lines from filler neck to tank. This would be something to do at the same time. Nice write up.
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[Did have a 94 & more recently a '97 GC with 5.2. for awhile. Just not the same! Now have the FSJ blues!
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  #5  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:26 PM
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bruner1981jpce bruner1981jpce is offline
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Awesome write up! it just helped me fix my leaks finally. took the extra steps to replace all the lines at the tank as well, while it was out. thanks for the write up.
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'81 Cherokee Laredo W/T 258/Weber 32/36 DGEV/HEI/176/208 AMC 20/Dana 44 3.31 gears
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Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=151814 New pics: 5/18/12
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  #6  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:33 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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yah,not bad. we'll move it tech archives.

'83 was an interesting year,the sender door appeared midway thru. yours has the sender door in the floor,my '83 don't,so i'll be dropping my tank soon to do a sender swap.

i'll put fresh grommets in and rustproof the inner frame while i'm at it.
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  #7  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
yours has the sender door in the floor,my '83 don't,so i'll be dropping my tank soon to do a sender swap.

Neither did my old '83, but I didn't hesitate to . (Well, actually a die grinder.) Had to make up a door to go with it of course.
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2011, 11:29 PM
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bruner1981jpce bruner1981jpce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
'83 was an interesting year,the sender door appeared midway thru. yours has the sender door in the floor,my '83 don't,so i'll be dropping my tank soon to do a sender swap.
really? my cherokee must be special then. its an '81 with a sender door. it was helpful when i replaced the sender, but i ended up not using when i dropped the tank for this job.
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Andy
'81 Cherokee Laredo W/T 258/Weber 32/36 DGEV/HEI/176/208 AMC 20/Dana 44 3.31 gears
Status: Storage Miles: Less than 140K (as of the talk with the original/previous owner) "The Jeffrey"

Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=151814 New pics: 5/18/12
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  #9  
Old 01-13-2012, 08:27 AM
Mavawreck Mavawreck is offline
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FYI, check valve grommets can be replaced with Dorman part #42344 pcv grommet. I trimmed the deck height of it a bit with a razor knife, greased it up and popped it in. Isn't as nice as the OEM replacements that BJ's sells but it is a dollar cheaper and available at autozone.
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  #10  
Old 01-13-2012, 01:23 PM
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It's been a while, so I don't remember all of the particulars, but I didn't drop the tank all the way. I think I let the front end come down a few inches and I was able to get in and replace the grommets in place.
I do not recall it being a whole lot of fun...
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