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Old 03-13-2008, 07:36 PM
EL Grande Honcho EL Grande Honcho is offline
Grease Monkey
Join Date: Jun 01, 2006
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 427
The Best anti-seize for stainless bolts?

What's the best for stainless bolts for things like oil pan, water pump, intake manifold?

Permatex #2?

Anyone every use old Rector Seal like for plumbing..I've been using that stuff for years and it never failed..then again, never on a Jeep
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Old 03-13-2008, 08:09 PM
pb's Avatar
pb pb is offline
Master Mechanic
Join Date: Aug 28, 2003
Location: Leslie, MI 49251
Posts: 1,443
Based on my experience, I might use thread locker on them. I put some stainless bolts on my engine and they loosened up causing the intake to leak. On my intake I only had two that I couldn't take out by hand.
1975 Wagoneer DD
360 with large cap ecm controlled HEI, TBI EFI, Comp Cam 260H, Edelbrock Performer Intake, CS130 alt, 4 row radiator, S10 steering box, QT w/LO, WT 3.54 D44 axles. Rancho 9000X's, ~4" lift, Caddy rear discs.
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Old 03-13-2008, 08:50 PM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
Join Date: Jun 21, 2005
Location: Huntington, Ma.
Posts: 8,693
Yeah, I wouldn't use stainless bolts on a motor. All I have ever heard from people that have is how the bolts loosened up.
Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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Old 03-13-2008, 08:58 PM
Herk's Avatar
Herk Herk is offline
350 Buick
Join Date: Jun 12, 2006
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,096
I use blue Loc-Tite on anything with threads. Learned that years ago working on my Willys and various Triumphs. Things come apart easier if you use something to seal the threads. Whats more, the parts generally only come off when you want them to, not on a dark rainy stretch of road when you are already late to pick up your girlfriend.

Here's my basic prep recipe:

1. Gumout or soak in lacquer thinner, wire wheel brush if available.

2. Brake cleaner and an air hose (wear eye protection).

3. A NEW lockwasher (I buy 1/4 through 1/2 in bulk).

4. Loc-Tite and torque to spec.

Basically you want the threads spotless clean. New fasteners are always a wise investment, although I wouldn't spend extra for stainless.

I use Never-Sieze on lug nuts and exhaust pipes.

On intake or head bolts which drill through to the water jacket or crankcase, I use Permatex #2.

Occaisionally some torque-to-yield cylinder head bolts wile require "Lube-Torque", but the procedure will be spelled out in the service manual.

NEVER install bolts dry. They will either fall out or "water-weld" themselves in place.
There are 2 rules to success in life...
Rule #1: Don't tell people everything you know.

1971 J-4700/Buick 350 Stage 1/TH400/D20/D44/D60/Koenig PTO Winch
2005 LJ Rubicon Pretty close to stock
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