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  #41  
Old 04-11-2020, 03:28 PM
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elskeptico elskeptico is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
I'd try swapping CTS out or heating it up or jumpering ~2500 ohm resistor on plug.

I found a few smaller resistors that added up to about 2800 ohms and tried those in place of the CTS, same result. Just getting too much fuel it seems to me. It can be completely dry and after cranking for a few seconds I look down the intake and it
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  #42  
Old 04-11-2020, 04:10 PM
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hmmm
Hate to throw parts @ things but maybe try a replacement? Or for quick test jumper connections with 200-300 ohm resistor.

Do you have any datalog capability? Or a cable to see what the ecm is reporting for temp?

A stock .bin "should" start/run ok w/o tweaking it. Obviously NOT ideal but shouldn't be this bad.
I would have to dig around in my junk(been years since had to screw around with .bin), but I may have a chip laying around somewhere?
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Last edited by babywag : 04-11-2020 at 04:16 PM.
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  #43  
Old 04-11-2020, 09:26 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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I had issues with mine when I got it running that was kinda similar. Mine would backfire like mad when I hit full timing. It turned out to be distributor phasing. scroll to the bottom of this thread and you will see how I found/fixed it.
Backfiring thread and here More/better pictures

If I was home I would ship my opened cap to you for free. When I look at this picture, that is what comes to mind. I assume you welded the mechanical advance but did you also screw down the plate that holds the magnetic pickup?
Quote:
Originally Posted by elskeptico
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  #44  
Old 04-12-2020, 07:29 PM
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elskeptico elskeptico is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
It turned out to be distributor phasing.

There were no Easter miracles for me today. I set the phasing just like you did and in all the write-ups here and on Binderplanet, and it just made things much much worse. It would barely start, and even after getting it to idle (had to advance the timing quite a bit), under throttle it would run really rough like if two cylinders weren't firing, and also backfired occasionally under load.

I don't know what else to do except nothing else until I get some datalogging capability. I'm going to work on that this week but don't plan on posting again until I have some data to share.

The feedback is much appreciated.
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  #45  
Old 04-15-2020, 05:52 PM
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elskeptico elskeptico is offline
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So...nothing definitive yet, but I think I may have solved it. I was suspicious that the problem was old gas. It wasn’t even that old, maybe a few months.

I managed to siphon some fresh gas from my daily driver, and lo and behold it started right up. I ran carefully through all the normal setup procedures including timing and setting the phase correctly, then I took it for a spin. It ran fine the whole time and never sputtered/backfired like it was doing the other day. The real test is how it starts up again when it’s cold, but I’m hopeful. I have a datalogging cable coming soon so that will help even more.

Thanks again for the help.
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  #46  
Old 04-16-2020, 10:26 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
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Hopefully this whole thing works out for you. How do you propose to get by the CA smog nazi requirements for this pieced-together system you're running?
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  #47  
Old 04-17-2020, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elskeptico
So this is the only way I can get it close to starting, and if I flutter the throttle and hold it open a bit it will run really rough. At TDC the rotor is so far past the #1 cylinder post that it appears closer to the #8 post. When I put a timing light on it while cranking, the mark shows up real close to TDC.





Is your mark on your timing damper anywhere close to reality regarding TDC?


Also, in the above picture it looks like the reluctor on the distributor shaft isn't aligned with the center of the pickup coil. At TDC (engine static), the reluctor wheel should point directly at the center of the pickup, or be ever so slightly before the center (distributor goes clockwise). Then with the dist visually zereoed, and assuming the computer is set for an offset of zero, with the tan timing set wire disconnected, it should start and idle well enough to zero it completely with a light. As for phasing, the tip of the rotor should be a bit before (distributor goes clockwise) the contact in the cap. Really it looks like you would be pretty close if the #1 wire was where you have #8 marked.



If you pulled the factory distributor apart to lock out the advance, you may have noticed that there are two slots in the reluctor wheel for the little pin that aligns it on the shaft. So there are two ways that the wheel can be keyed onto the shaft. One is correct, the other is far enough off that the engine will barely run. I finally figured this out after burning plenty of midnight oil on a rainy work night.
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  #48  
Old 04-18-2020, 07:57 AM
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elskeptico elskeptico is offline
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To confirm, my main problem appears to have been some bad (old) gas. With fresh fuel, and after redoing all the initial setup procedures, it seems to start right up every time now warm or cold. Sometimes still a bit rough when cold but it starts.

There doesn't seem to be a consensus around here about the "right" way to hookup the coil pickup wires to the ignition module P and N terminals, but this tidbit I found from Bill on binderplanet helped me determine what was right for my setup:

[After setting engine to TDC and rotor to just past #1 terminal, and after setting the reluctor wheel to point at the PU coil] "Crank engine to check timing. If the wires are connected properly then the timing will be within 5* of 0*. Just set timing to 0 and your good. If the timing is 20-30* away then swap the P and N wires and check again."

Thanks again for the help. Hard to believe I was pulling my hair out over bad gas, but on the bright side, I now know how to diagnose nearly every primary part of this system.
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  #49  
Old 04-18-2020, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elskeptico
To confirm, my main problem appears to have been some bad (old) gas. With fresh fuel, and after redoing all the initial setup procedures, it seems to start right up every time now warm or cold. Sometimes still a bit rough when cold but it starts.

There doesn't seem to be a consensus around here about the "right" way to hookup the coil pickup wires to the ignition module P and N terminals, but this tidbit I found from Bill on binderplanet helped me determine what was right for my setup:

[After setting engine to TDC and rotor to just past #1 terminal, and after setting the reluctor wheel to point at the PU coil] "Crank engine to check timing. If the wires are connected properly then the timing will be within 5* of 0*. Just set timing to 0 and your good. If the timing is 20-30* away then swap the P and N wires and check again."

Thanks again for the help. Hard to believe I was pulling my hair out over bad gas, but on the bright side, I now know how to diagnose nearly every primary part of this system.

If you look closely on the diagram I linked...
A stock Duraspark pickup has a wire that is purple or a wire with a purple tracer.
That wire is always "P" on the module, every one of these that I have set up, or helped troubleshoot is that way.
The other wire "N" is generally orange or with an orange tracer.
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  #50  
Old 04-18-2020, 11:50 AM
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Yeah, if I hook my pickup backwards it will not start. I had found a page on the megasquirt page that had them the other way and it would not fire. I swapped them IAW Babywags diagram and it fired right up. I have crossed them on accident in the past and it would not fire. I come out, swap them, crank it and it fires to life.
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  #51  
Old 04-18-2020, 01:16 PM
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elskeptico elskeptico is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
If you look closely on the diagram I linked...

Yup, I see it now. But I had come across other posts that suggested hooking it up the other way. At least that's how I remember it in the midst of all the hunting I did to try to figure this out.

As they say, it's all water under the fridge now

Thanks again! Glad to have EFI working now and looking forward to the fine tuning stage later on.
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