International Full Size Jeep Association
Home Forums Reader's Rigs Tech Library Trail Stories FSJ-List
International Full Size Jeep Association  

Go Back   International Full Size Jeep Association > Tire Kickin' > General FSJ Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-25-2018, 02:32 PM
jpcoutts's Avatar
jpcoutts jpcoutts is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jun 28, 2002
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 1,997
'67 AMC 327- What oil is most appropriate?

The title says it all. I've been using 10w30. Is there a better choice for an engine from the sixties? The TSM doesn't offer much info other than use 10w30 unless the temp stays below 32 degrees.
__________________
Jim C
'67 J3000 Dually
'86 J20
'79 CJ5(in pieces)
'86 CJ7 Doesn't need anything(so why do I have it?)
Correction- it just needed a water pump!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-25-2018, 02:42 PM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 22,392
10w-30 or 10w-40 is fine. Just use a quality name brand.
__________________
joe
"Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-25-2018, 03:49 PM
tgreese's Avatar
tgreese tgreese is online now
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 11,274
My Jeeps get the 20W50 Rotella or Delo for diesel engines - seems fine. I don't drive them much in the winter.
__________________
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-25-2018, 05:28 PM
FSJunkie's Avatar
FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
 
Join Date: Jan 09, 2011
Location: Not The Hot Part, Arizona
Posts: 4,016
The oil it was designed to run....meaning Pennzoil with Z-7 10W30. I have a case of it left over from the 1980's that I've been putting in my engines.

Or modern Quaker State high mileage 10W30. It's formulation and additives, including ZDDP, closely resemble the old oils of yore that these engines were designed to use. Quaker State developed this line of oil specifically for pre-1980 engines. It has higher ZDDP and lower detergency than other modern oils. It's also inexpensive. Walmart and Autozone have it.

I tend to stay away from Diesel oil. Yes, it works and yes it is higher ZDDP, but its higher detergency tends to offset the higher ZDDP and I think it's cleaning action is a little too aggressive. Engines benefit from having a little bit of sludge and stuff coating their insides and you don't want to strip too much of that away with detergents (solvents) in the oil.

327's don't have aggresive camshaft profiles or stiff valve springs by any means, so they are likely fine on modern low ZDDP oil, but a little extra ZDDP is good insurance since the camshafts on these engines are becoming darn near impossible to find. The Quaker State I mentioned before has enough ZDDP.

Castrol 5W50 synthetic is also high ZDDP but it is very expensive and don't let the advertising fool you: it still needs to be changed every 5000 miles or less or it breaks down. I found that out personally.


Also don't use a Wix or Napa filter on your 327. The X1258 filer they use are often defective and allow oil to drain out of the filter after the engine is shut off. Use an AC Delco PF24, STP S25, or a Purolator L30005.
__________________
'72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-26-2018, 07:25 PM
jpcoutts's Avatar
jpcoutts jpcoutts is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jun 28, 2002
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 1,997
The good news is I bought the QS 10w30 mentioned, but I ended up with a Wix filter as that was what I could find. I'll go looking for a different filter before I change it. I'm putting it in a low mileage engine, for its age but the info about the additives is the kind of help I was looking for. Thanks for all of the responses, that's what makes this such a great group!
__________________
Jim C
'67 J3000 Dually
'86 J20
'79 CJ5(in pieces)
'86 CJ7 Doesn't need anything(so why do I have it?)
Correction- it just needed a water pump!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-26-2018, 10:34 PM
440sixpack 440sixpack is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Jul 21, 2016
Location: oregon
Posts: 612
even though your engine has low pressure springs you should run zinc in it as it was intended to have. just add one of the ZZDP additives and you should be fine.


I run only Brad Penn oils ( formerly Kendall ) in my flat tappet engines because it has everything you need added to a high quality oil.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-26-2018, 10:38 PM
FSJunkie's Avatar
FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
 
Join Date: Jan 09, 2011
Location: Not The Hot Part, Arizona
Posts: 4,016
You can add a ZDDP additive to any oil you want.

But the Quaker State high mileage 10W30 and the Castrol synthetic 5W50 oils I mentioned already have enough ZDDP. I sent off samples of each oil and had them tested. I've run them both myself.

But yes, buying plain old Valvoline conventional and pouring in some ZDDP additive works too.
__________________
'72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-27-2018, 05:58 PM
Herk's Avatar
Herk Herk is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jun 12, 2006
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,103
Compared to the best oil available when that engine was designed, you simply can't buy oil that bad today. As others have said, pretty much any name brand will be fine. I tend to use Rotella 15w-40 in older engines and have had no problems. The whole ZDDP thing is pretty distorted by the additive marketers. Levels have dropped, but they are similar to what was in late 50's oils. It was in the late 70's when the levels went way up. Coincidentally this was right after GM started cheaping out on the materials their cams were made of.
__________________
There are 2 rules to success in life...
Rule #1: Don't tell people everything you know.

1971 J-4700/Buick 350 Stage 1/TH400/D20/D44/D60/Koenig PTO Winch
2005 LJ Rubicon Pretty close to stock
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-27-2018, 09:22 PM
FSJunkie's Avatar
FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
 
Join Date: Jan 09, 2011
Location: Not The Hot Part, Arizona
Posts: 4,016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk
GM started cheaping out
Never heard that before, have we? I swear 1970's GM cars are the reason people tend to dislike 1970's American cars.

And I own a late 1970's GM car that I love. I bash on it, but I love it.
__________________
'72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-29-2018, 08:00 PM
jpcoutts's Avatar
jpcoutts jpcoutts is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jun 28, 2002
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 1,997
I got the oil changed this afternoon and all is well, except in the TSM there is a footnote that says to add an extra quart of oil if you change the filter. So I added the extra quart for a total of six and the dip stick now reads what looks like a quart too much! I think I'll just watch it for a little bit and see if there is a change. I don't think draining a quart out is necessary if it remains overfull unless some one knows it to be a bad idea.
__________________
Jim C
'67 J3000 Dually
'86 J20
'79 CJ5(in pieces)
'86 CJ7 Doesn't need anything(so why do I have it?)
Correction- it just needed a water pump!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-30-2018, 02:34 AM
FSJunkie's Avatar
FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
 
Join Date: Jan 09, 2011
Location: Not The Hot Part, Arizona
Posts: 4,016
The manual says 4 quarts is the oil capacity, add one quart if the filter is changed with it. Total capacity is 5 quarts with filter change. The filter holds 1 quart and the oil pan holds 4 quarts.

I'd drain 1 quart out if it were my engine.
__________________
'72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-30-2018, 07:03 AM
jpcoutts's Avatar
jpcoutts jpcoutts is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jun 28, 2002
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 1,997
At least I didn't mis-read it and put less in after changing the filter!
__________________
Jim C
'67 J3000 Dually
'86 J20
'79 CJ5(in pieces)
'86 CJ7 Doesn't need anything(so why do I have it?)
Correction- it just needed a water pump!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-30-2018, 09:00 PM
jpcoutts's Avatar
jpcoutts jpcoutts is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jun 28, 2002
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 1,997
So I went back to the TSM to double check my original thought about what it says about how much oil it takes to fill the crankcase after changing the oil and filter. The maintenance table says five quarts for an oil change and the ** footnote says to add one quart when changing the filter. I then got out the owners manual and it says 4 quarts and the footnote** there says add one quart when changing the filter. Obviously the owners manual is correct and the TSM is not. I've never questioned what the TSM says and still don't but find this very interesting. Now I just need to go out and drain a quart of oil out of it.
Thanks for the heads up FSJunkie!
__________________
Jim C
'67 J3000 Dually
'86 J20
'79 CJ5(in pieces)
'86 CJ7 Doesn't need anything(so why do I have it?)
Correction- it just needed a water pump!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-31-2018, 01:24 AM
FSJunkie's Avatar
FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
 
Join Date: Jan 09, 2011
Location: Not The Hot Part, Arizona
Posts: 4,016
Save the quart you drain out. You'll probably be pouring it back in about 1000 miles.
__________________
'72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 07-31-2018, 08:30 AM
jpcoutts's Avatar
jpcoutts jpcoutts is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jun 28, 2002
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 1,997
So true! I read in one of the manuals that you should check the oil level after about 1,000 miles and add 1 qt. if needed.
__________________
Jim C
'67 J3000 Dually
'86 J20
'79 CJ5(in pieces)
'86 CJ7 Doesn't need anything(so why do I have it?)
Correction- it just needed a water pump!
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 07-31-2018, 12:29 PM
FSJunkie's Avatar
FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
 
Join Date: Jan 09, 2011
Location: Not The Hot Part, Arizona
Posts: 4,016
327's use oil. They just do. I have two rebuilt ones and they use about 1 quart every 1000-2000 miles. I'm not sure how much is leaking and how much is burning but it happens.

The 327 is an old engine design. It was designed in 1955. Oil control methods were not as advanced at that time and it was not one of the major
considerations the engineers had in mind when they were designing it.

The later AMC engines are a little better about oil. They usually go about 3000 miles on a quart.
__________________
'72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 07-31-2018, 02:57 PM
babywag's Avatar
babywag babywag is offline
out of order
 
Join Date: Jun 08, 2005
Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
Posts: 9,770
I've seen a reduction in oil use using "high mileage" oil...it's the same price as regular oil.
Maybe give it a whirl.
__________________
Tony
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 07-31-2018, 05:30 PM
letank's Avatar
letank letank is offline
AMC 4 OH! 1
 
Join Date: Jun 03, 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3,928
the high mileage oil has more zddp, the cars have passed too many miles and the owners are less likely to file a claim because the catalyst is not working due to zddp contamination.


Otherwise a quart per 1000miles was considered within the specs.


After I redid all the seals, I used a quart of rotella 15w40 for 3400 miles.
__________________
Michel
74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 07-31-2018, 09:07 PM
jpcoutts's Avatar
jpcoutts jpcoutts is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jun 28, 2002
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 1,997
I used Quaker State High Mileage 10W30 and using a quart in a 1,000 miles doesn't bother me as long as it's normal.
__________________
Jim C
'67 J3000 Dually
'86 J20
'79 CJ5(in pieces)
'86 CJ7 Doesn't need anything(so why do I have it?)
Correction- it just needed a water pump!
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 07-31-2018, 10:06 PM
440sixpack 440sixpack is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Jul 21, 2016
Location: oregon
Posts: 612
Or, just use oil designed for flat tappet engines.

https://www.jegs.com/p/Glockner-Oil/...86175/10002/-1
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'66 Gladiator (AMC) 327 w/th400 swap for 360 Arkansan Gladiator General FSJ Tech 11 04-17-2014 07:30 PM
AMC 327 engine/tranny questions Don in Missouri General FSJ Tech 11 12-31-2012 10:56 PM
327 Questions FishFighter General FSJ Discussion 13 12-11-2011 09:33 PM
327 T18 jpjeeper General FSJ Tech 8 10-02-2007 03:42 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
corner corner