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  #81  
Old 04-08-2009, 03:06 PM
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shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j20brett
If its a new pump, it takes a bit of cranking to prime it up. Might try an electic pusher pump from close to the tank to get fuel there faster, and its also a good backup.


It's definitely a new pump. I cranked it for quite awhile, maybe I'll just do that a little longer and see what happens. I thought about adding a pusher back at the tank, but was gonna try to get by without having to do that.
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1981 J10 360

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1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
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1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
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  #82  
Old 04-08-2009, 03:17 PM
GWChris GWChris is offline
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I was just looking at the pictures from the beginning of the thread - Edelbrock is made by Weber / Mageti Marelli? Interesting.
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  #83  
Old 04-08-2009, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWChris
I was just looking at the pictures from the beginning of the thread - Edelbrock is made by Weber / Mageti Marelli? Interesting.


No idea...
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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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  #84  
Old 04-08-2009, 03:48 PM
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After I ditched the electric pump the mechanical pump started pushing enough fuel to run it after about 5 seconds of cranking. In a different car I have funneled some fuel from the pressure line back into the pump and that seemed to help with a pump that can't get primed.
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  #85  
Old 04-08-2009, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smearig
After I ditched the electric pump the mechanical pump started pushing enough fuel to run it after about 5 seconds of cranking. In a different car I have funneled some fuel from the pressure line back into the pump and that seemed to help with a pump that can't get primed.


After as much as I've cranked on this one, I don't think it's possible that more cranking is the answer. I pulled the feed line off the pump and got a mouthfull of gas pretty quick, so there is fuel within a foot or so of the pump I'd say. I have the hard line disconnected from the top of the pump right now, hoping that I would see gas shoot up out of the pump as I was cranking it from the cab. I'm wondering if not having that backpressure on it affects anything, but I know that I could manually actuate the pump before it was installed and it would spurt out whatever liquid was in it. I'm going to run to try find a nipple for the top of the pump so I can run that soft line to the filter for easier access and service.

Also, I pulled the coil wire and I am definitely getting fire to the distributor. That and the fact that my fuel lines are dry make me sure it's a fuel problem, not spark.

Any other ideas?? I can't believe that it's a bad pump from the get go...(I know it's possible, but...)
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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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  #86  
Old 04-08-2009, 08:19 PM
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I usually fill the carb bowl and start it with that. It will prime itself quickly once started (that is if the pump is good).

Try not to crank it too much before the new cam is broken in.
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  #87  
Old 04-08-2009, 08:29 PM
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shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris P.
I usually fill the carb bowl and start it with that. It will prime itself quickly once started (that is if the pump is good).

Try not to crank it too much before the new cam is broken in.


So from the top of the carb...where and how much gas?
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Derek
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1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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  #88  
Old 04-08-2009, 08:46 PM
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Chris P. Chris P. is offline
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You can fill it with a squeeze bottle hooked the fuel inlet or fill it through the bowl vent.

When you can't squeeze any more gas in with the bottle, its full.

If you use the bowl vent, you'll know its full when gas begins to run down the venturis. Don't let it overflow too much or it will be flooded.
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  #89  
Old 04-16-2009, 07:20 PM
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shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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SHE'S ALLIIIVVEEEE!!!

well boys and girls, as of 7:25pm tonight, the AgWag is alive and running. I took off the new fuel pump and put the old one back on and still couldn't get it to crank. I pulled the line from the filter and succked gas through the pump and still got nothing. I took that practice one step farther and pulled the line from the carb and sucked gas all the way to that point in the line and then she finally fired right up. I suppose the starter just wasn't spinning the engine fast enough to get the pump cycling like it needed to be. I ran her for about 20 minutes at what I guessed to be around 2500 rpm and she didn't miss a beat. Good pressure and the temp was great. Chevelleguy, it took about 5 minutes for the QuikSteel to blow out of the AIR tube hole, so after it gets cooled off I'm gonna hit it with the MIG to take care of that one...good call. The wag's been sitting in the garage with me working on it on and off for about 7 months or so now, so it's kind of been "packed around"...meaning it's gonna take some maneuvering to get it out and actually take it for a drive, but I can't wait.

A big thanks to everyone for all your help along the way. I'm sure little things will creep up related to this part of the project, so I'll be back to this thread to get them ironed out. I suppose next up is a little interior work and paint...and suspension...and tires and wheels...never ends does it? I love it.
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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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  #90  
Old 04-16-2009, 07:26 PM
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Good deal, glad to hear it's running again!
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  #91  
Old 04-16-2009, 07:37 PM
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Thanks man, looking forward to getting it out on the road. Should be good to go for the M&G in May. Probably still not painted then, but oh well...
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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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  #92  
Old 04-17-2009, 09:18 AM
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smearig smearig is offline
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Nice work, you're catching up to me fast.

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  #93  
Old 05-13-2009, 08:50 PM
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Rob z Rob z is offline
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So, what did ya do with the CTO?
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  #94  
Old 05-13-2009, 08:57 PM
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shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob z
So, what did ya do with the CTO?

It's still there, just not completely hooked up. I'm not at home right now or I could give you better details than that. I may take it off completely and plug the hole on the thermostat housing, not sure yet.
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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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  #95  
Old 05-20-2009, 02:01 AM
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shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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Kickdown Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow


the kickdown generally has about 1/4 throttle worth of slack. adjust it to be pulled fully forward at full throttle and you're done.

In an attempt to get everything ready to go for the DFW meet and greet in a couple days, I think my kickdown is the last thing that's necessary to make it over to Southlake. Anyway, it looks as though there won't be enough of the original kickdown piece to extend it out far enough to work properly. A question that I have about adjusting it is how far does the kickdown need to be pulled to work properly? With the factory piece, I can adjust it out enough to pull just a little bit on the kickdown, but it doesn't seem like it will be enough to do what it needs to do. At full throttle, does the kickdown need to be pulled as far as it will go? It seems like in order for that to happen, the carb needs to make contact with it immediately and start pulling as soon as the throttle is pulled, but I know there is supposed to be some throttle (about 1/4 according to Ristow above) travel prior to the kickdown being pulled. For now I am going to get a piece of heavy gauge wire or possibly a welding rod (stripped of the flux, of course) and make a new piece to replace the "trombone slide" piece of the kickdown that actually connects to the carb and wraps around the plastic bushing. I'll probably go ahead and order the Lokar soon too since it seems to be a little better of a solution.

Any insight would be appreciated. I have looked at the Tom Collins write up in the tech articles and read a ton of posts, but I'm still a bit stuck here. Thanks again as always!
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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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  #96  
Old 05-26-2009, 02:01 AM
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shiner2001 shiner2001 is offline
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Kickdown solution and latest question...

Here is what I came up with to extend the kickdown out far enough.



This is the original kickdown, my first attempt at making a new one, and the one that I ended up going with.





I went and picked up an acetylene rod and shaped it to replace the original. I put about 100 miles on the Jeep Saturday and she ran pretty good. I think I might need to adjust it a little more to get it just right, but that shouldn't be a problem.

Soooo...here's the question for the day. While the Jeep ran fairly well, especially since everything is tuned as it was out of the box, it did seem much more sluggish upon acceleration from standstill than I would have expected. I am thinking that since it runs so well at speed that it's not a timing issue, it seems like that would create a problem throughout the full range of throttle. I'm guessing that it's a vacuum issue, so I still need to go through that some more, deleting as much as possible along the way. Any insight on this issue (low power on take off)?

Oh yeah, here's how I fixed the hood latch mechanism I broke when disassembling. Not too techy, but oh well. And by the way, what a PAIN to put the hood back on by yourself...wow!!



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Derek
----------------
1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360

----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L

----------------
"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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  #97  
Old 05-26-2009, 02:52 PM
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grand_wag_85 grand_wag_85 is offline
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Hood latch mechanism? Isn't it just a screw driver?
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  #98  
Old 05-26-2009, 09:20 PM
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Stumblinman Stumblinman is offline
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I ditched all my hood latch stuff a while ago. Hood pins are so much easier.

Sluggish off the line huhh... I thought going with straight manifold vacuum was supposed to make it smoother. It could just be the idle mixture screws needing a little adjustment. What's your plugs look like ?
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