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Old 05-02-2018, 07:43 PM
posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 18, 2016
Location: Weymouth, MA
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Detailed Holley Sniper Install Write Up (AMC 360)

Hey Folks,

I finished installing the Holley Sniper on my AMC 360 this weekend and wanted to do a detailed write up on the install for anyone thinking about buying this set up.







Fuel System

The most time consuming part of the install was modifying the fuel system so lets start there. I decided to go with the master kit with the inline fuel pump. First thing I did was modify the Fuel Sending unit. This is going into a 77 J10 so your fuel system might be different. I have a MTS Poly tank and a single sending unit.

Sending Unit

First thing I did was drop the tank and pull the Sending unit. I cut out both return and main tubes. I then Drilled out the 5/16 main line hole to fit 3/8 fuel/brake line. I tapped the 1/4 inch hole to fit a set screw and installed fuel proof sealant and a set screw to block that hole. I then made the close to 90 degree bend on the new 3/8 fuel line and soldered it into the old main line hole that was drilled out to fit the bigger tube. After soldering it I bent the bottom of the tube to fit the old fuel line angle so everything was exactly the same. Then using this fitting: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was able to attach the holley supplied an-6 fitting on the new line.



Return Line

The Holley supplied return line bulk head fitting was not going to fit on the fuel sending unit but I was able to put it in the relief hole for the sending unit. Install was easy just had to get creative with a wrench to tighten everything down. Make sure if you are going to drill into your tank you get all the gas out and fill the tank with water. I was less concerned with spark (although it can still happen) because my tank was plastic so I felt comfortable going this route. One trick to help reduce clean up when drilling the hole: I was holding a small cup on the back side of the hole catching all the drilling debris so I did not leave any debris in the tank.

Pump mounting bracket

I decided to run my pump attached to a bracket that I attached to the fuel tank straps. Originally the plan was to have pre filter, pump, and post filter on this bracket but after getting the tank back in the space was too tight. So pre filter and pump stayed on the bracket and I moved the post filter to the frame rail (with self adhesive foam behind it to help with frame vibrations). This set up worked perfectly and allowed me to run the hoses in large sweeping bends as to not strain the fuel line. The lines were run through the cross member holes and onto the frame rails.

[IMG]
[/IMG]






*side note many people have had issues with the MTS tanks not fitting well with the original straps. To solve this I cut a commercial rubber floor mat and installed it with carpet tape on the bed tank support cross members and on top of the tank in those same locations (rubber on rubber). This made the tank so much tighter. I originally put this on the straps as well but it was too much added thickness to get the straps on the studs to tighten them down:





Exhaust 02 bung Install

This took me a bit of time as the space to drill the hole for the bung was pretty tight. I wanted to be off the passenger side bank. To get a space flat enough and with enough space to drill I ended up dropping the exhaust. Be careful when you tight down the clamps if you tighten them to fast they can get torqued and not want to tighten further. Don't ask me how I know . Ended up having to use a stainless band clamp on one side.




Wiring

Wiring was super easy. I am currently running an MSD Distributor but am not running timing control right now. I wanted to get the system up and running before messing with timing control.

Yellow wire goes to negative side of coil.

Red goes to positive side of battery

Black goes to negative side of battery

Pink this is the one that trips everyone up. I used a weather pack connector to connect to the old red with trace fire that powered the old distributor. It had 12v with cranking and ignition on.

The only wire I used on the 10 wire harness was the brown which went to the tach. I also kept the white wire on because I will use that when I do do timing control. I removed all other wires and plugged the holes with weather pack hole plugs.





Coolant Sensor

Easily fit into the front coolant passage on the Edelbrock 2131.



Throttle Cable

Was able to use my existing throttle cable with the Holley supplied bracket.



Hand Held Touch Screen

Mounted it in the cab with a self adhesive mount.



Vacuum Connections

PCV Connected into the back large vacuum connection. Brake booster moved to a fitting on the manifold intake.



Fuel Flush


I flushed the fuel by not connecting the main line to the sniper before start up and cycling the ignition a couple of times. This pumped the fuel into a spare container flushing any potential debri into a the container and not the sniper. Then I hooked up the fuel line to an inline fuel pressure gauge and into the the sniper to verify I had 58 psi, which I did. So I was good to start this thing


Start Up

Start up was easy. Make sure you follow the start up wizard directions and after going through everything hit the start button on the screen which will download the tune. Cycle the ignition and you should be ready to go. Fuel pump should kick on, you need to wait a couple seconds so the fuel pump can prime then turn the key. My engine started right up. Idle was a little high but after warming up the engine I was able to adjust the idle speed screw to lower the idle to my desired 800 rpm and the IAC in the correct position.


Final notes

I think most people should be able to do this is in a day. So far I love this thing. I was really struggling with my carb ( I am a carb noob) the sniper fixed all of my issues. My truck idles great and the driving has been so much better than before. Its responsive and so far has handled everything I have thrown at it. It starts right up every time, no pumping the gas pedal, turn the key and you are good to go. I cannot suggest this system enough.

Let me know if you guys have any questions. I hope this is helpful.
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Last edited by posulli88 : 05-02-2018 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:56 PM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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Thank you for posting this.
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2018, 05:30 AM
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Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 is offline
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Love it thanks!
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Old 05-03-2018, 10:42 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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AWESOME write up, great pics!
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:22 AM
posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 18, 2016
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No Worries, Thanks guys! I have gained so much knowledge from this forum it was exciting to finally be able to offer some support ahah. Let me know if you need anymore photos or clarification about specific things.
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Old 05-08-2018, 10:17 AM
malabo malabo is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Apr 17, 2018
Location: MS Coast
Posts: 3
Nice write up

Great pics and description. Thanks for posting. So much to learn on this site.

My learnings:
My install isn't nearly as neat or organized as yours. I used the factory return line. When the fuel pump comes on it squirts gas out of the gas cap as the return line points directly at it. Took me a while to figure out the gas smell after start up. I stuck a small home made "diverter" into the return line opening below the fuel cap, it diverts the fuel back down the filler neck.

I also first connected the "always on" wire to one that is NOT on while the starter is engaged. That took a while to figure out as it sputter and not start. I suggest anyone that does this install have a set of alligator clip test wires and a meter to check out the wire in the on AND "start position".

I love driving the truck so much more now. Smooth starts, no sputters or delays on acceleration. No warm up required to drive in the morning.
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Old 05-09-2018, 01:25 PM
the5ilenced the5ilenced is offline
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Join Date: Feb 17, 2016
Location: Texas
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Great write up with pics! I too just installed a sniper EFI and love it. I did have some trouble finding a good spot for the pink wire. Would u mind going a bit more into that?
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:35 AM
posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 18, 2016
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Thanks,

[IMG][/IMG]

I used the red with trace 10 guage wire circled in green in the above image. If you have a 78+ wire harness this is the wire that supplies the old duraspakr ignition module. I have an MSD Distributor so I am not using that wire. So I used a weather pack connector to connect the pink wire to that wire and was off and running (see below). This is the best photo I could find right now. If you want a more detailed view of it let me know and Ill go and snap one tonight. Hope this helps.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 05-13-2018, 09:32 AM
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Pyrate2010 Pyrate2010 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 18, 2015
Location: St.louis
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Great write up, thanks for posting this. I'm going to use your fuel pickup mod for my Cherokee with a in tank pump. A couple of questions...What did you use for the 3/8 line with the 5/8 flare fitting ? And is the return bulkhead fitting pretty solid in the poly tank ?
Thanks, Joe
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Old 05-13-2018, 08:00 PM
posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 18, 2016
Location: Weymouth, MA
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I used Poly Armour fuel/ brake line from Autozone. I sanded the outside paint/coating where I was going to solder for metal on metal soldering. It bends up easily and comes with a nice inverted flare already put into it.

The bulk head was pretty solid. I tightened it down pretty good. There is a little "wiggle" if you put some pressure on it side to side. But its protected from the underside of your jeep (and is a non moving part) and is plenty solid. I have no concerns about the bulkhead.
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Old 05-14-2018, 12:14 PM
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Pyrate2010 Pyrate2010 is offline
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Great info, thanks
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:29 PM
posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 18, 2016
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Hey guys I just wanted to update you on a couple things as I have driven this thing more. First off I am still super happy with how this system is working no real issues and the performance seems great.

One thing I was dealing with was under harder acceleration there was a squeal (almost like a belt squeal ) after a lot of research it seems this is an issue occasionally with duel plane intakes and the center ridge (which sometime can even happen with carbs). To fix this people use a 4 hole carb spacer. I used this spacer:

https://www.efisystempro.com/quickfu...le-300-4004QFT

and it instantly fixed that issue. Apparently that sound its causing no harm its just an annoying sound.

Second thing I have noticed is the injectors on this thing are a little loud. Under hard acceleration I can here the injectors going and when I have the hood open with the engine running I can here the ticking clearly coming for the sniper unit. Again Holley says this is normal ( and my fuel pressure is good, make sure you check your fuel pressure) so its fine just a little annoying. I am hoping when I install my headers and exhaust I drown out that sound.

Performance wise though this thing has been awesome. Just want people to know my experience so far.
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Old 05-23-2018, 06:04 PM
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GI-John GI-John is offline
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You may be interested in the new update that allows for progressive linkage like our old carbs had. From what I've read, it is excellent for street manners.

Progressive Linkage thread
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