poly or rubber spring bushings?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by AKJ20
    Trail rig ....rubber

    Daily driver / mall crawler ....polyurethane
    I would agree with that. On road manners should be better with poly, they have less give thus stiffening up the suspension. The sports car analogy is very accurate. Tighter suspension will give better handling at speed.

    I don't offroad much, but have heard many people complain about the dirt/wear problem with poly bushings. That and they will not flex like rubber. Try to squeeze a poly bushing...it ain't happening.


    aa
    1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

    Comment

    • Locked and Loaded
      350 Buick
      • Jul 04, 2006
      • 1282

      #17
      Where are you guys getting the rubber bushings?
      Jeff

      Drink more water.


      "Nothin' ain't worth nothin'.
      But it's free"
      Kris Kristofferson 1970

      1981 J10, 258, T176, NP208

      Comment

      • badaboom
        AMC 4 OH! 1
        • Jun 05, 2001
        • 3761

        #18
        Rubber for the shackles
        I run poly on most eveything else.
        I would use rubber for the body mounts also but I could not find them for the 1981
        1981 Jeep J10 Laredo, 401-V8, 625 Carter, Lunati 262/268, Edelbrock Performer, MSD Ign., Hydroboost, Hyd. Clutch, Flow Cooler WP, Be Cool Aluminum Radiator, Doug Thorley, NV4500 5-Spd, NP-231D, 3.73 F/R Trac-Locs, Rustys 4" Lift, Vintage Red Metallic, Black Interior and 33X10.50X15 BFG, FiTech400 to come - IN PROCESS Bling Bling Cha-Ching

        Comment

        • Topgun2mo
          258 I6
          • Aug 19, 2010
          • 303

          #19
          It's amazing how most of these polls are a knock out winner or a 50/50 split!!
          Mike Morgan
          Slidell, LA
          '90 Grand Wagoneer
          SOA, CUCV 14 bolt rear, 4.56 and Detroit, Looking for HP Dana 60 for front, 1" Body lift, 44044 Rancho Springs up front, Dodge 4x4 Rear leafs and shackles, BJs 1" lift shackles in front.

          Comment

          • alwomac
            232 I6
            • Aug 06, 2009
            • 198

            #20
            I recommend poly bushings. They allow more flex out of your springs instead of the bushings. Use the greaseable bolts in the shackle and spring hangers too which will reduce the noise and allow full motion as intended from your suspension. If you are running a daily driver as in almost exclusively on the road then use rubber. They are much less harsh and are very quiet and the bushings actually flex and dampen to absorp vibrations, but since we are posting in the Off-Road section I am assuming we are talking about what is best for off road. Rubber will flex, but bushing flex equals binding and twisting of the bushing which will in turn eventually bind the suspension or tear up the bushings. I personally have never had good luck with rubber bushings but it looks like a lot of you are running them with good success. Can anyone actually bottom out a long travel shock in either direction with a rubber bushing, if so I would like to see it and hear your secret as I would rather use rubber?
            Aaron Womack

            1978 Cherokee 360, 400/QT, HD44, Dana 60, 4.88's, locked, 36s on H1s, SOA/SF, high steer, Rancho RS5000's (14" front/11" rear travel) lots of dents

            Comment

            • serehill
              Gone,Never Forgotten.
              • Nov 22, 2009
              • 8619

              #21
              I just changed my vote

              Originally posted by HellCreek
              Just ask yourself a simple question: How long did the original bushings last? The auto factories still use steel encased rubber bushings, even though poly is widely available, and it's not because of price. Poly and rubber are about the same price when you compare the cost of the entire bushing, i.e., two halves and a spacer. It's always your choice, but I prefer steel encased rubber when it is available. BTW, I had to replace the poly bushings in my 4.5" lifted rear Comanche springs, because I couldn't stand the noise, and I greased mine with graphite grease. I replaced them with steel encased rubber, and I have heard nary a peep from them since.

              -Tom
              I would have said poly but I just learned a new trick. If Tom says rubber & he breaths this stuff what do I know. Ease of installation means nothing lesson learned.

              80 Cherokee
              360 ci 727 with
              Comp cams 270 h
              NP208
              Edlebrock performer intake
              Holley 4180
              Msd total multi spark.
              4" rusty's springs
              Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

              If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

              Comment

              • Maverick8706
                232 I6
                • Apr 14, 2011
                • 155

                #22
                Not to hijack but could we get part numbers and where you can buy them for all the years of the fullsize. I think that would help alot of people.

                Comment

                • JeepinPete
                  304 AMC
                  • Dec 09, 2003
                  • 2190

                  #23
                  Raybestos makes all three:

                  5763356 - 2" spring bushing, for the large eye of the spring
                  5763305 - 1 1/4" spring bushing
                  5763340 - 1 1/2" spring bushing

                  I cannot recall which of the smaller two go where. All are available through Rockauto.com.
                  Pete

                  '55 Willys Wagon, the original FSJ
                  Sitting on a '77 Cherokee frame, Dodge D60's
                  Isuzu 6BD1, NV4500, NP241

                  Comment

                  • Hippie Metal
                    327 Rambler
                    • Apr 11, 2009
                    • 612

                    #24
                    Originally posted by will e
                    Always use a rubber.


                    agreed
                    1984 GW T18/205

                    Originally posted by TheDude
                    Garrett called me maybe 30 minutes ago with a blown tire, but knowing PBR is on the line not much can stop us

                    Comment

                    • Stuka
                      • Jan 21, 2001
                      • 13743

                      #25
                      If I am doing up a car for road racing, poly 100%.

                      Offroad/daily driver, rubber is just fine. Plus I HATE the squeaking that comes with poly bushings. And no amount of grease seems to stop it. Plus the poly bushings split when you start flexing.
                      Last edited by Stuka; 12-12-2011, 04:59 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I run poly mainly because that's what came with the springs. everything squeaks when you go offroad. I can't be for sure if it's the bushings or not. it can be annoying but I just turn my radio up and it doesn't bother me.
                        Places to Wheel in the Southeast

                        Originally posted by Topgun2mo
                        I would think boxing would limit the amount the frame could flex over obstacles which I think IMO would be a bad thing. I would think you would want all the articulation possible.
                        Originally posted by johnny019
                        I'm not saying lockers don't improve the performance of your rig, just that they're overrated.

                        Comment

                        • jpcoutts
                          304 AMC
                          • Jun 28, 2002
                          • 2114

                          #27
                          Rubber. I've never understood the popularity of poly for offroaders, or even any DD for that matter. Poly became popular years ago with the racecar/sportscar crowd because they were one more way to limit flex in the suspension to keep their cars as "flat" as possible in the curves. Even they complained about the harshness of the ride and wear.
                          Jim C
                          '67 J3000 Dually
                          '86 J20
                          '79 CJ5(in pieces)
                          '86 CJ7 Doesn't need anything(so why do I have it?)
                          Correction- it just needed a water pump!

                          Comment

                          • alwomac
                            232 I6
                            • Aug 06, 2009
                            • 198

                            #28
                            I personally like the poly bushings in an offroad rig, but only when the bushing is mounted to the frame and not in a shackle. When you use the shackles that don't have bushing, I just use bolts with poly lock nuts and don't hammer them down tight and use garage door lube on the bolt and the outside of the bushing where it rubs the shackle. In my experience with a rig that articulates a lot the rubber just doesn't last and tears pretty quick. If I still had the shackles with the bushing in it, I would use rubber at that point. The poly bushings split in that application. The shackle twists up and busts out the harder poly. The poly is a bit cheaper also, the rubber bushings run $12 a piece for Moog at O'Reilly, and AutoZone ordered me a poly set for all three bushings on both front springs for $28. Now on a daily driver, I vote for rubber all the way. They are much smoother on the street and dont transmit all the harmonics and road vibrations.
                            Aaron Womack

                            1978 Cherokee 360, 400/QT, HD44, Dana 60, 4.88's, locked, 36s on H1s, SOA/SF, high steer, Rancho RS5000's (14" front/11" rear travel) lots of dents

                            Comment

                            • Dirt Wag
                              258 I6
                              • Jun 24, 2008
                              • 358

                              #29
                              WOW - could this poll be any closer??
                              1985 GW, 360, 727, NP229, D44, AMC20, HEI, SOA/shackle flip 7" lift, Quick Lok locker rear, Aussie Locker front, 4.10 gears, 37 X 13.5 Interco SS-M16's, Warn Premium hubs, Tuff Stuff 12,000 LB winch, rear disc brakes === stripped down street legal off road toy

                              Comment

                              • Dirtfarmer
                                232 I6
                                • Aug 14, 2012
                                • 240

                                #30
                                Originally posted by alwomac
                                I recommend poly bushings. They allow more flex out of your springs instead of the bushings. Use the greaseable bolts in the shackle and spring hangers too which will reduce the noise and allow full motion as intended from your suspension. If you are running a daily driver as in almost exclusively on the road then use rubber. They are much less harsh and are very quiet and the bushings actually flex and dampen to absorp vibrations, but since we are posting in the Off-Road section I am assuming we are talking about what is best for off road. Rubber will flex, but bushing flex equals binding and twisting of the bushing which will in turn eventually bind the suspension or tear up the bushings. I personally have never had good luck with rubber bushings but it looks like a lot of you are running them with good success. Can anyone actually bottom out a long travel shock in either direction with a rubber bushing, if so I would like to see it and hear your secret as I would rather use rubber?
                                Where can I get greaseable bolts
                                "The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

                                Comment

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