If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
lots bump steer
but then i dont use it on hiway exept to get to the trail. but since i dont have a sway bar installed, it leans alot in the corners...
the jeep is safe to drive, but far from being driven with only 'one' hand...
I want to do a spring over conversion on my 87 GW. So whats your best advise on keep bumb steer to a minimum? Can you do anthing else other than replace the pitman are with a drop pitman arm?
from what i hear unless u drop your steering box so that the drag link is parallel with the tie rod you will get bump steer. i guess you could lower your steering box or you could go with a chvy front end already set up soa. just a thought anyway
------------------
Steve (77 jeep j20)
360 four barrel
t18a tranny Dana 20
dana 60 rear
dana 44 front
3.73 gears with limited slip in rear
Ben there done that. I did one on my 84. Here is the low down Use the chevy d 44 knuckles to raise the steering above the springs after the soa. You will need to manufacture them out of cold rolled steel at a machine shop. They look the same as the d35 set you see in the mags. You can put all of the steering over the spring or just the drag link with custom heim joints. They sell them to specific length, R&L handed threads. I will say that there is a noticable increase in the sway especially in the rear after the shackle flip. BUt still is managable on the road. My steering is easily a "one-hander on the freeways in CA." The one thing is will forwarn you is there are a lot of things to consider when doing this mod. Let me list them 1)
1) You will have to design the new steering linkage so as not to interfere with the wheel offset when you are done ie as you raise the center of the steering you are no longer in the horiz. center of the wheel as you go upward the radius becomes tighter to the appex of the arc hence you have less clearance
2) Swapping in the Chevy d44 is a lot of work for example rightside drop TC longer diff meaning more $ do have it shortened and axles re-splined.
3) If you have the heavy front springs on your 88 then I believe you have a 5 or 6 front leaf. You are looking at around 7- 71/2" of lift just with the SOA. The cast of the d44 has one large u bolt and on smaller one on the short side. You will need to flatten this top area for the new perch. All of this leads to one thing your front drive angle is going to be so bad you will need to either A) lower the t/c. B) remove a leaf or to depending if you have add-a-leafs installed and either which way you go you will have to modify the cross-member to allow for the increased angle. Just a note I purchased a wood's custoim drive shaft with life time trail hazard warranty for around 350$ Long travel dana/spicer joints etc.
After all of this there are still things that I cannot remember. All I can say is that I am happy with my trail rig now, it will almost anywhere now
The last piece of advice is that I can give you is that the harder way is usually the best way dont cut corners on your suspension and steering components. Especially if you trail ride with the wife and kids.LIke i said mine is a one handed driver even my wife can drive it she just cant get in it SO good luck with your project I hope I have shed some light on the harder points.. If you have any specific questions E-,ailo me at [email protected]. I will have pics comming soon of my mods, see you on the trails
84 Grand Wag<br />360, soa, headers,custom rear shackle flip<br />35 MT\'s,Mobi on board welder,12V air, Winch <br />\"and the to do list grows daily\"
I would like to know some tips on doing a SOA using the regular stock suspension. I know a drop pitman arm and brake lines are a must. But is there anything else on the market that will help? I heard that skyjacker has a track bar braket with one of their kits.
I would think on a SOA conversion, keeping the stock pitman arm and getting a custom drag link built would be the better way to go. oops, can't do that, because the pitman arm will hit the drive side leaf. Well, maybe a pitman arm and a custom drag link would to the trick?
[This message has been edited by Marc_01 (edited May 16, 2000).]
Well, the last time i looked at my jeep, i was trying to imagine how the spring over conversion would work. But now after you ask, the OEM pitman arm shouldn't hit the spring because the spring doesn't get relocated, its the axel, duh.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Marc_01: Well, the last time i looked at my jeep, i was trying to imagine how the spring over conversion would work. But now after you ask, the OEM pitman arm shouldn't hit the spring because the spring doesn't get relocated, its the axel, duh.
Had a brian fart for a min there.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
You will have to worry about the drag-link hitting the passenger-side spring, however. One solution to that is to what the Chevys do and relocate the steering arm to the top of the passenger-side knuckle.
------------------
---
Bob Barry
'78 Cherokee 4-door
'88 Grand Wagoneer
Comment