Sacreligious WT Chief converted to the Dark and smokey side Cummins 4bta

[dusty]

Ford master cylinder from 91-96 F250/350 7/8" bore
Dodge diesel 2500/3500 1994-1998 slave cylinder 1" bore

the pin that holds the line in is universal fit for both applications so a dodge or a ford hydrailic line is all htats needed to tie the two together

your idea of removing the rubber might be just the ticket for me to get sufficient travel i haddent thought of that

[dusty]

[dusty]

mean while here are the pictures of the radiator

[dusty]

few more angles and some from under neith so you can see how close things are clearance wise but yet how well it all fits and leave room for working on things.

final pictures with hose clamps all on means the engine is full of coolant now and is awaiting the heater box, the hydraulic clutch assembly and for me to come up with a solution to the fuel tank dilema (i am still wieghing options but am pretty set on modifying the trailquest tank)













yes that is the fan blade in that picture

[dusty]

used a early all metal heater core box. mild mods to the late model heater cor to get it to fit. thought was cool i used the fiberglass blower hosuing since i already had that. no problems getting the two to match up. install looks clean.

stumbled into the heater box at pick and pull. $10 .... thought about getting the all metal interior heater ducting also but i left it there......

Throttle Cable: i used the stock throttle cable, welded a waher onto the throttle bracket that fit and intalled the pivot ball on the linkage snaps together and works fine


the under hood is pretty much wraqpped up. down to:

hydraulic clutch pieces and parts moutning and sealing it to firewall
charging the AC
installing a intake tube and air filter
fuel tank.
alternator is fighting me, might have to get it rebuilt and put an internal regulator into it

and then she could be on the road....

but i still need to seal the roof (gotta get ahold of BJ's they forgot them on my order), paint tailgate and tightening the loose nut behind the wheel. should be pretty close to a runner by then


Super busy at work we are shutting down one of our yards and moving the inventory to a facility 10 miles up the road. somehow salary you end up on the job 6-7 days a week 10-12 hours a day getting the job done. wife wasnt too thrilled when i worked christmas day so she requested i stay home on new years day.... ha i still got two hours in moving things around with the forklift and moved two more truck loads of material...... i need a day off so i can catch up on this project ........... but now we just bought a house so two weeks from now things start moving from one house to the other

[Elliott]

You've been busy, nice work!

[dusty]

You've been busy, nice work!

thank you.

back at cha' now if i could have done something productive to this projec these last two weeks i would really be getting somewhere..... as of now the back of the cherokee is rapidly becoming a mobile storage and moving van for the move to the new house in two weeks

not sure how much will occur for awhile now.

[dusty]

not much interesting to tell y'all

The hydraulic clutch combination is:

48" custom hydraulic line made by crewcab over on the 4btswaps page
Ford Master clutch cylinder at fire wall. i used the later 1990-97 model since it utilized a mounting plate. this allowed me to move things around a little more
1994-1998 dodge clutch slave cylinder.

little bit of a pain to bleed but setup works. to fill the dodge slave with fluid tip at an angle and fill to the top.

Then fill the line with fluid. put your finger over the low end after enough fluid has poured through it.

Insert the end of the line into the tipped dodge slave and pray you dont let too much fluid from the line drip out before you get it plugged in. (easy way put another finger over the top of the line hole to prevent fluid from slipping out.) Instert top of line into the Clutch MC pump the slave numerous times about 30 seems to be about when mine started toi firm up.

cut the rod on the ford master cylinder thread it and put an adjusting sleeve on there

AC i used the jeep condensor. installed a new evaporator valve then had custom lines made. The Drier is out of a 1984-1996 Kenworth/freight liner/ Peterbuilt/ Volvo/ HD fords and some box vans 2-3/4" diameter x 10-1/2" tall. it has an inspection glass piece, uses o-rings and has a trionary switch on top. the reason for this is part to gain the trionary switch to protect the system... also the old system wiring had just barely started to melt into my fuse panel so now instead of fusing it throught he cab i am going to a direct relay system using the alternator switched wire is also serving as the relay actuator for the AC power feed, the AC wiring now goes from the fuse & relay on the fender by the drier down with the hoses and into the cab. Looks like later i will build a small fuse and relay box right next to the battery to help the headlights, AC and the fog lights in an effort to reduce the load going into the cab seems there are several interor high amp draw items that like to overtime self destruct so hopefully reducing the draw will reduce the headaches.

Hood bar is painted and installed. Razor conversion complete and looks Sweeeeet.

Tailgate is painted and will be installed when i get into the new house. gotta love a manual tailgate that isnt dented rusted or flaking paint.


Found a 1 wire converted dodge 130 amp alternator from destroked for $249 taht will clean up my wiring even more.



Down to:

intake tube/ air filter

Building fuel tank. I still really like the 33 gallon scout fuel tank idea for a reinforced bulletproof tank that is setup for a diesel application.

mounting interior accomodations

Sealing roof since BJ's forgot my roof plugs on my last order I need to call them about that i just havent had time

[dusty]

Scout fuel tank is 26" W x 25" Long and 12-3/4 top to bottom, has the tappered rear and comes with a thick skid plate bottom surface.

fill inlet is 2" diameter and its not in a bad location, though i may change it a little but its easy to weld to 1/8" palte steel.

anywhere from 33is spot on that will be 600 miles + IMHO fuel plenty

it also is diesel compatible breather and fill neck wise. i still need . o re-configure the neck from the side of the body down to the tank. i think thats going to involve some tight bent texhaust tubing.

approaching test drive. hope to dyno the rig sometime in Feb or March

The tank is a little tight around the reciever hitch so i may have to chase down a draw tight or something but Due to the tank being a good fit and at 33 gallons and not needing a skid plate i think its going to be just the ticket. grind off the existing brackets and reinstall them.

Tank is from Northwest metal fab in Forrest Grove Oregon nice piece $500 but that includes sending unit ect. more feedback later but the tank clears shocks just barely is inset from the frame by about 2" on each side so working around the frame is easy. its tapered on the bottom so its not a giant square box hanging down. And i dont have to worry about clearing the diff if i upgrade to a d60 later on.


BJ's should be talking to these guys potentially. if this goes well and i'll post all the train wrecks i have / run into with its install. i may do a seperate thread. but this thing looks like a darned good option for a rear mount tank that is 33 gallons and a nice comfortable fit. with some mild mods (i hope) more later on that with pictures. what i really like is if i back over a rock or something it can take the hit

[dusty]

I don't have a camera working right now so i am kind of at a dis-service to you.


Worked on AC tonight. mounted the Drier to the metal heater box not as pretty as i wanted to do but it works and the mounting clamps arent too noticible. routed lines all over the place. alot of stuff around and under the heater box. trying to keep the fender open for the air filter


We'll see when its all done. The AC project is putting the rig back in the holding pattern.

But AC that'll be a nice touch for the rig....... now the next project will be cruise control using the factory setup hmmmm maybe i'll wait a year or three to do that one.

Focus on sealing the roof and the tailgate, get the glass installed on the tailgate and deal with the front door panels and the sound deadener. pleant to keep me busy for awhile

[JeepinPete]

My Cherokee has been on the road for 18 months now. I still haven't gotten the cruise hooked up I installed it when I did everything else, but never got around to the wiring.

How did your clutch issues work out?

[dusty]

My Cherokee has been on the road for 18 months now. I still haven't gotten the cruise hooked up I installed it when I did everything else, but never got around to the wiring.

How did your clutch issues work out?

Luke warm at best.

I cobbed it together to get it mobile, i'll be making a new mounting plate soon and moving the Mc down a hair to clean things up. hompefully that gets my sngle and travel right. soon as i get a camera back in my possesion i'll give some feedback.

Ha. the cruise control will take some ambition and patience. AC was a big enough hurdle

[JeepinPete]

After 18 months of trial and error (mostly error), I finally nailed the clutch setup this weekend Just so happened that there was a Chevy pickup sitting in the junkyard that had the same tranny as my Cherokee. I took a bunch of measurements, and found the following.

The Jeep pedal and the Chevy pedal are the same length. But the Chevy is set up with ~7" of travel, while the stock Jeep setup is 5"-5.5". The clutch master cylinder connects 2.5" below the pivot in the Chevy, while mine was set up at 3.75". I ended up moving the master cylinder up 1.25" and redrilled the clutch pedal at 2.5". Clutch works like factory issue now. The only downside is the clutch pedal is roughly 2" above the brake pedal.

Anyway, what I am getting at is the Jeep setup probably isn't going to work with 5" of travel without having a very stiff pedal. Here is a picture of what I ended up with...

[dusty]

thank you pete that is some Very helpful information.

I'll be getting back to work on mine relatively soon


I wonder if a 25% larger master cylinder would allow you to have 25% less travel?

[dusty]

i didnt know where i left off last with pictures



i didnt want to do the air filter like this and i will most likely change it but for now its will work






the maze of hoses.
sorry but this was the only way to route all of the AC lines. tried numerous ways and those hoses just dont bend and they need big radius' to turn and by moving the heater box i was left with very little space to route them through