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  #1  
Old 03-07-2007, 08:15 AM
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dusty dusty is offline
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Join Date: Jul 20, 2006
Location: Left Coast, Right wing. Nor Cal
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Adios TH400/QT hello NV4500

Well this has been a busy week. It started out with the QT giving me a hard time last week jumping chain occassionally and clunking when i put it in gear so i figured a little R&R and sheed be back on the road. well coincidentally i had a nv4500/ d300 with hd output in my garage that came out of my scrambler.

I took my 401 nv4500 d300 out because im planning on selling the scrambler and more people want a chevy 350 under the hood than an amc so i figured i'll just keep the power house then and appease the many. so the nv4500, hydraulic clutch and ev erything sat idle in my garage under my work bench and i had talked about installing it into the cherokee just not so soon. well i got ambitious and since last friday when i get home from work i do an hour or two worth of tinkering.


Im still wrapping up details. buttoning up the carpet, may shorten the shifter some more, might change the angle on the twin sticks. So ill get back to you when shes all done with a few pictures and and thoughts. In the process of installing the hydraulic clutch i made a few bone head mistakes that i knew better but the result was i ended up installing a El dorado hydraboost unit while i was at it.

Swapped out my long tube headers for some edelbrock shorties that i had also. and rewired the under dash to clean up the loose and cobbled wires plus bypassed the amp gauge

So all said and done im in the whole conversion about $400 (not including exhaust work yet) since i had most of the parts and gaskets ect. The hydraboost was as easty as others said it would be. about two housrs of beating my knuckles. the nv4500 was straight forward, like i said im still hashing out details. my setup had the AA bellhousing which uses a chevy input on the nv4500 which is the same as a t-18 so ive got a couple of t-18 clutch kits in my garage.

Next on the project list. BJ's 4" lift **** this one i'll have to buy i dont have any parts laying around but i do have some 33's in a shed, and a new set of floor pans welded in. Previous ower did a nice job of welding in 10 ga steel over the old rusted out floors but didnt cut out the rusted stuff from undernith so its just getting worse under there.

thought i would share since its been down for the last week but shes back up and should be running by sunday. I'll post my thoguhts as i wrap up

I’ll tell you installation of the clutch pedal was a cake walk which many know. As well installing the hydraulic clutch, I got some very helpful pictures from zinertia which helped me confirm where I had made my marks for drilling. There was even a handy little spot weld that served as my centering for my bit. As to the hydra boost I opted to drill 1” lower as all of my hydraulic clutch stuff was already lined up and installed as well the clutch pedal had the right travel and was perfectly aligned, I was going to fix the linkage assembly I bought but then I stumbled across this hydraulic setup I had taken out of one of my cj’s. I will say retro93’s suggestion of moving the assembly up would have worked had I not already done everything for the clutch. Im still hunting around for a non automatic tilt column until then just knocking the pin out of the shifter will look good enough for now.

Everything cleared the floor, the cross member required very little change as well the drivelines were almost perfect. LOL. I’ll finish up with the drivelines on Monday after everything else is buttoned up.

Currently running 3.54’s on 31’s im really torn on the gear ratio to go with I thought I had it all figured out and was going with 4.27’s 33’s and the OD tranny I’ll run the 260 cam’d 401 for now and then here next winter I’ll swap in the 401 with the 274 grind cam, now im starting to ponder possibly running 3.92’s as my cruising rpms would stay lower in OD and I could still use direct. It’s a toss up of about 300 rpm and maybe a mpg or three so I’ll have to debate that one before I take that dive. Might leave the 3.54’s for now see how everything runs, figure out the cruising rpm that she likes then figure out the sweet spot on the motor while in direct and then change the gears at that point so OD takes advantage of the sweet spot at 65/70 mph. I know im still pushing a brick down the highway.
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Cherokee S Chief Widetrack W/ Cummins 4bta Diesel, 91 dodge intercooler, hy35/9, AC NV4500/D300 3.54's Ploks 4" BJ's w/ 33's, scout 33 gal fuel tank ( Sold, to a good fsj home)
The 608.9 hybrid dana 44 build

AMC 401 supporter

GO UM Montana Griz

"Dont worry the Coors light engineering department will be documenting this accordingly."

Last edited by dusty : 03-07-2007 at 09:08 AM.
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  #2  
Old 03-07-2007, 08:25 AM
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Retro93 Retro93 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 02, 2001
Location: Morehead, KY
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You've been busy. But..........................


Will the transmission swap cause problems when you go to smog it??
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79 Cherokee Chief WT "RDBLOK" warmed over 360, TH400/QT, 4.10 Truetrac F/Detroit Locker R, 4" Skyjacker Softride System, Rancho 9000 shocks with in cab adjust, Hydroboost brakes, 33" BFG Mud Terrains
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  #3  
Old 03-07-2007, 08:39 AM
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JeepinPete JeepinPete is offline
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If you don't mind, I would love to see some details on the hydraulic clutch setup, like what master cylinder you used, how you mounted it up to the pedals, etc. I will be doing the same in a few weeks...

Thanks,
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'55 Willys Wagon, the original FSJ
Sitting on a '77 Cherokee frame, Dodge D60's
Isuzu 6BD1, NV4500, NP241
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  #4  
Old 03-07-2007, 09:12 AM
dusty's Avatar
dusty dusty is offline
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Join Date: Jul 20, 2006
Location: Left Coast, Right wing. Nor Cal
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stock MC.

Smog's not an issue with this rig, its nice when they are exempt
but thats one for pm's
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Cherokee S Chief Widetrack W/ Cummins 4bta Diesel, 91 dodge intercooler, hy35/9, AC NV4500/D300 3.54's Ploks 4" BJ's w/ 33's, scout 33 gal fuel tank ( Sold, to a good fsj home)
The 608.9 hybrid dana 44 build

AMC 401 supporter

GO UM Montana Griz

"Dont worry the Coors light engineering department will be documenting this accordingly."
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  #5  
Old 03-07-2007, 10:14 AM
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JeepinPete JeepinPete is offline
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I was curious about the clutch master cylinder. Far as I know FSJ never had hydraulic clutch systems
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'55 Willys Wagon, the original FSJ
Sitting on a '77 Cherokee frame, Dodge D60's
Isuzu 6BD1, NV4500, NP241
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2007, 11:08 AM
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dusty dusty is offline
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Join Date: Jul 20, 2006
Location: Left Coast, Right wing. Nor Cal
Posts: 744
i was told by several that the 63/64 fsj's had a hydraulic clutch


but that aside good luck finding one. I opted to use the 1980-86 jeep cj 151 iron duke and 6cyl setup. the iron duke setup uses an external slave cylinder that bolts up to many of the jeep bellhousings

specifically when i took it off of a 1981 cj7 with iron duke and 4 spd. when mounted it sticks roughtly 4" off of the firewall. Parts mike sells em for pretty reasonable.

DD
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Cherokee S Chief Widetrack W/ Cummins 4bta Diesel, 91 dodge intercooler, hy35/9, AC NV4500/D300 3.54's Ploks 4" BJ's w/ 33's, scout 33 gal fuel tank ( Sold, to a good fsj home)
The 608.9 hybrid dana 44 build

AMC 401 supporter

GO UM Montana Griz

"Dont worry the Coors light engineering department will be documenting this accordingly."
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2007, 11:11 AM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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Location: New Haven, CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinPete
Far as I know FSJ never had hydraulic clutch systems

Old ones did.
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2007, 10:15 PM
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Retro93 Retro93 is offline
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Location: Morehead, KY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusty
stock MC.

Smog's not an issue with this rig, its nice when they are exempt
but thats one for pm's

ROFLMAO...gotcha.
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79 Cherokee Chief WT "RDBLOK" warmed over 360, TH400/QT, 4.10 Truetrac F/Detroit Locker R, 4" Skyjacker Softride System, Rancho 9000 shocks with in cab adjust, Hydroboost brakes, 33" BFG Mud Terrains
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2007, 10:11 PM
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dusty dusty is offline
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after a few major setbacks the big one was the flu bug its down to some minor diagnosing.

Hydraboost went alright. my firewall was a hair off from my friends who's we did ad the same time his you drill the holes 7/8 of an inch center to center lower and the rod is perfectly in line mine i did the same thing and found out the i only needed to drill it 1/2" lower at 7/8 the rod contact the hole edge. anyways right now im running that in the stock holes and the angle isnt severe enough to cause problems till i have time to re diagnose.

The other issue is i may have the pivot on the clutch pedal 1/2" too low i have 3 1/2"- 4" of travel but i am 3-1/2" down from the pivot i have since had a few people tell they installed thiers with down 3" from the pivot shaft up top but still with 3-1/2-4" of travel to the fire wall. so i'll chase down another pedal do a little modifying and see if i cant get enough travel to disengage the clutch.


Over all everything else went really smooth. those two hickups wont stop me now. im almost done fiddle farting around with this and im excited to get her out on the road. i changed out the front yoke on the D300 to the CV yoke from the QT. and by doing that was able to run the Stock QT front shaft with no modes. also if i wanted to i could run the stock rear shaft too but im thinking with the offset rear end and a lift in the future that keeping the HD output flange style setup so that i can run a CV on the rear driveline maybe a smatter idea. i'll decide that one later after i get the two hickups figured out.

Otherwise i ditched the long tube header for shorties. much happier with all the room under there and thanks all for the infor on using the stock Chokee ps pump to steering box pressure line for going from the pump to the hydraboost, and then just having to buy the caddy hydraboost to ps gear box line. which with a little patience and finaggling worked awesome.



Oh one wire alternator and rewired dash, also HEI is installed and dialed in......hm what else did i do this week. oh yeah shes getting a new single exhaust with some sort of three chamber or quieter muffler. vs the dual glass packs.

That the update its all trial and error. if the hydraulic clutch gives me too much crap i can just rig up a mechanical linkage in short order that will work too.

FYI i used the AA bellhousing with the chort 6.5" chevy input in the NV4500. hatched up to a Stock FSJ t-18 cluthc and pressure plate. uses chevy 1973-1987 clutch fork and throwout bearing ..... god i cringe at that thought.
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Cherokee S Chief Widetrack W/ Cummins 4bta Diesel, 91 dodge intercooler, hy35/9, AC NV4500/D300 3.54's Ploks 4" BJ's w/ 33's, scout 33 gal fuel tank ( Sold, to a good fsj home)
The 608.9 hybrid dana 44 build

AMC 401 supporter

GO UM Montana Griz

"Dont worry the Coors light engineering department will be documenting this accordingly."
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2007, 10:12 PM
dusty's Avatar
dusty dusty is offline
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Join Date: Jul 20, 2006
Location: Left Coast, Right wing. Nor Cal
Posts: 744
pictures to follow soo as i can find the daned camera
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Cherokee S Chief Widetrack W/ Cummins 4bta Diesel, 91 dodge intercooler, hy35/9, AC NV4500/D300 3.54's Ploks 4" BJ's w/ 33's, scout 33 gal fuel tank ( Sold, to a good fsj home)
The 608.9 hybrid dana 44 build

AMC 401 supporter

GO UM Montana Griz

"Dont worry the Coors light engineering department will be documenting this accordingly."
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  #11  
Old 03-07-2007, 01:37 PM
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Kris Kris is offline
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Join Date: Jul 05, 2000
Location: Woodland Hills, CA. USA
Posts: 1,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by dusty
I’ll tell you installation of the clutch pedal was a cake walk which many know. As well installing the hydraulic clutch, I got some very helpful pictures from zinertia which helped me confirm where I had made my marks for drilling. There was even a handy little spot weld that served as my centering for my bit...

Im still collecting parts on mine, but would love to see the pics of an in progress/finished one.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dusty
...I will say retro93’s suggestion of moving the assembly up would have worked had I not already done everything for the clutch.

Is this on the HB or the clutch ?
Details ?

I was planning on using the 151 cj master as well (at Novaks recomendation).
Was the included rod long enough, or did you have to lengthen it ?






kris.
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89 Waggy

Save the Hammers<--Click it!

AX-15 swap info threads...
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=83102
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=97262
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=104163
Theres more but that should get you started

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinPete
-If it wasn't for bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all-
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2007, 01:51 PM
dusty's Avatar
dusty dusty is offline
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Join Date: Jul 20, 2006
Location: Left Coast, Right wing. Nor Cal
Posts: 744
redrilled the clutch pedal just under teh number 4 stamped on the rod to locate to new pivot

check out zinertias pictures mine arent going to be much different
http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h152/zinertia/


that was on the HB setup. now im second guessing that statement because had i moved everything up one more inch my clutch master would be higher possibly high enough that if it ever springs a leak it could get on my main wiring ( bad) so keeping things lower may not be a bad thing.


where is woodland hills CA? not over in the valley are you by sac? no wait thats woodland. well anyways if you are anywhere near nor cal. send me a pm you can take a gander and see what hits and what fits for yourself.

Dusty
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Cherokee S Chief Widetrack W/ Cummins 4bta Diesel, 91 dodge intercooler, hy35/9, AC NV4500/D300 3.54's Ploks 4" BJ's w/ 33's, scout 33 gal fuel tank ( Sold, to a good fsj home)
The 608.9 hybrid dana 44 build

AMC 401 supporter

GO UM Montana Griz

"Dont worry the Coors light engineering department will be documenting this accordingly."
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