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  #21  
Old 04-08-2020, 08:19 PM
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elskeptico elskeptico is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Did you unplug the timing set wire connector?

Originally, no. But I just gave that a shot and no change. Still can’t see the mark on the crank at all while cranking
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  #22  
Old 04-08-2020, 10:16 PM
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That would suggest timing is way off...
I mean I can see mine when it's way advanced @idle
I painted the groove on the balancer with some nice bright yellow paint.
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  #23  
Old 04-09-2020, 08:08 AM
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If it were way advanced I’d be able to see it, but since it’s retarding it so much I can’t see the mark.

I know I’ve got the dizzy set right to TDC, and I know it’s the compression stroke because I did the test with a vac/comp gauge on cylinder #1.

Something in the ECU and/or ICM is retarding the timing by a lot for some reason. Could this be related to the dizzy star wheel being slightly out of phase? I know folks don’t usually have an issue with that...
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  #24  
Old 04-09-2020, 08:11 AM
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Is there something like the EGR connection that I’m supposed to ground or otherwise disable if I’m not using it?
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  #25  
Old 04-09-2020, 08:30 AM
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I would focus on timing...if you're confident in distributor install and you believe it is retarded adjust it.
with timing set wire disconnected the ecm doesn't alter timing
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  #26  
Old 04-09-2020, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
I would focus on timing...if you're confident in distributor install and you believe it is retarded adjust it.
with timing set wire disconnected the ecm doesn't alter timing

So this is the only way I can get it close to starting, and if I flutter the throttle and hold it open a bit it will run really rough. At TDC the rotor is so far past the #1 cylinder post that it appears closer to the #8 post. When I put a timing light on it while cranking, the mark shows up real close to TDC.

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  #27  
Old 04-09-2020, 12:10 PM
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Same as normal setup...
Align rotor with your #1 on cap when installing distributor.
#1 can be any post on cap provided plug wires installed to match that position.

If proper alignment cannot be obtained raise distributor move it tooth drop it back in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Distributor a tooth off? Or plug wires 1 position off?
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  #28  
Old 04-09-2020, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Align rotor with your #1 on cap when installing distributor.

What I mean is if I do this (align rotor with #1) it won't start and timing will look super retarded while cranking.

The way it's pictured is the only way it will get close to starting.
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  #29  
Old 04-09-2020, 12:38 PM
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In that pic, the engine is @ #1 TDC?

How is the pickup/advance plate locked down?
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  #30  
Old 04-09-2020, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
In that pic, the engine is @ #1 TDC?

How is the pickup/advance plate locked down?

Yup, it’s at #1 TDC.

Pickup is attached to the vac advance thing, no vac attached. The part with the springs/weights is welded.
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  #31  
Old 04-09-2020, 01:27 PM
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Looked @ ARJT if that's what you have initial "should" be 0*.

However, since it won't start/run properly...
Maybe try setting it 10* advanced while cranking?
.bin appears to ADD ~10* when cold.

Looking @ main spark table appears ARJT idles ~20*(fully warmed up).
So could also try setting to 20* while idling(warmed up) to see if that does it??
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  #32  
Old 04-09-2020, 02:18 PM
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ARJU is my BCC

I read elsewhere that the ECU doesn’t affect timing at all at startup. So something else is delaying the spark. Must be the ICM. I’m going to try to get to the junkyard today to snag another ICM and while I’m there I’ll try to get another chip to try.
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  #33  
Old 04-09-2020, 04:00 PM
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ARJU looks like ~16* timing @idle warmed up.
Initial is 0*
Also appears to add ~10* when cold.

So *if* idles on its own/warmed up timing light should show ~16*.
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  #34  
Old 04-09-2020, 07:41 PM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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Are you sure your not 180 out of timing?
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  #35  
Old 04-10-2020, 05:32 PM
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Well, things are better now. To get it started today, I still had to advance the timing to around 40-50 degrees and give it throttle until it warmed up a little.

But after it was warm, I was able to back the timing back down to where it *should* be, around 10 degrees advanced and it idled pretty well.

I drove it around and it felt okay. Then I got it back in the driveway and set the timing exactly right, reset the IAC to the right idle, and reset the TPS.

Let it sit for a few hours to cool down, and then it was back to the hard start where I needed to throttle it to get it started and keep throttling for a while to keep it running. So I guess it's a cold-start issue? The CTS checks out fine, not sure what else can affect cold start.
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  #36  
Old 04-11-2020, 09:31 AM
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Very odd...

What is the fuel pressure?
Does it feel like it's loading up or starving for fuel when trying to start?
Getting any popping out TB or ??
The temps really aren't that cold so unless the coolant sensor is going whacko very odd.
Does it run okish when warm? Or still something off?
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  #37  
Old 04-11-2020, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Very odd...

What is the fuel pressure?
Does it feel like it's loading up or starving for fuel when trying to start?
Getting any popping out TB or ??
The temps really aren't that cold so unless the coolant sensor is going whacko very odd.
Does it run okish when warm? Or still something off?

Thanks for sticking with me on this.

I don't have a FP gauge so I haven't checked pressure yet. It runs really great when it's warmed up, and restarts just fine also when warm.

Just went out and tried again after sitting overnight. It jumps right away when I start cranking like it's gonna go, and then just cranks and cranks.

I think it's flooding. After I cranked it a while, and gave it some throttle to try to help it start, I stopped and checked the TB. Noticed significant gas smell. I opened the plates and looked down and could see liquid gas glistening in the intake.

Is fuel mixture on cranking something I can tweak in the BIN?
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  #38  
Old 04-11-2020, 10:55 AM
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Try clear flood mode...turn key on press pedal to floor...try to start...let off soon as it starts/runs.

If it is flooding/loading up on cold start 99% it is the coolant temp sensor.
Could try heating the sender up and see if that isolates issue?
They are known to fail frequently.

If you can check what does the ecm report for temp. on a cold key on/engine off?

You have a check engine(SES) light?
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  #39  
Old 04-11-2020, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Try clear flood mode...turn key on press pedal to floor...try to start...let off soon as it starts/runs.

This worked. Fired right up, but then died. Did it again and held throttle open and it ran but sputtered and ran rough. Probably just coughing on the extra gas in the intake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
You have a check engine(SES) light?

Yeah, I do have the light, it's not reporting any codes.

The CTS itself reads 4900 ohms which seems right. ECM at C10 reads around 4 volts with key on.
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  #40  
Old 04-11-2020, 11:17 AM
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I'd try swapping CTS out or heating it up or jumpering ~2500 ohm resistor on plug.
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