D60F into my post mount J2000-update w/pics

[KaiserMan]

Anyone swap a Dana 60F into a post mount rig?

I've been playing with my Dodge 60 today, and have noticed a few problems.

1. Steering.

Obviously I can't use the Dodge steering arm, but I also can't use the normal high steer. Any steering arm I've seen would put the drag link up high, and it would run into my PTO shaft.

So I'm thinking of making (or having made) a tie rod like those used on 74+ FSJ. Where the drag link bolts to the tie rod.

2. Spring perches.

The Dodge has a spring perch with of 32.5, my Gladiator is 39". Not going to work, obviously. So I'll be moving the perches. They will be dang near ot the edge of the inner c's, but should clear everyting at (or very near) full lock. I can adjust the stops if I have to. However the passengers side will be partially on the diff. I won't be able to weld the perch to it.

3. Shocks. After moving the perches, there will be no room for shocks inbetween the sping pack and knuckle. I might be able to mount the shock to the u bolt clip plate, and run the Ford F250 shock towers to counteract raising the lower shock mount (so I don't have stupid short shocks).

That's all I can think of for now.

Does anyone know wher I could have a tie rod and drag link made up? Or has anyone ever done what I'm talking about?


Before anyone says anything, I will NOT lose my post mounts, nor can (will) I move or lose the PTO.

TIA.

[Mikel]

Hello,
I have a Dodge D61 in my J300. When I had the later non-post brackets in my truck, I did some work to the axle's spring pads to compensate for the 3/8ish pad width difference so the springs would line up with the axle's pads. I also used the axle's tie rod and made a pad with the correct tapered hole and TIG welded it to the tie rod. All I needed was a short draglink.

If you can put new spring pads on the tubes without interfering with the C's, I would go that route, as it would be the easiest.

However the passengers side will be partially on the diff. I won't be able to weld the perch to it.

Are you sure about this? With the old suspension, shouldn't the passenger side spring fall completely out of the old perch?

Just in case this helps you... Not going to tell you to lose your posts

[KaiserMan]

Hello,
Are you sure about this? With the old suspension, shouldn't the passenger side spring fall completely out of the old perch?

From some quick measurements, it looks like it will end up just on the edge of the diff, right where the tube goes into it.

Do you have a pic of your tie rod?

I also thought of another question.

Can a FSJ DPA (74+) be reamed out to take a one ton TRE? Safely, that is.

[Mikel]

Here are some old pictures. The taper was made on a lathe, as I didn't have the correct reamer.








No front shackle in this pic.




Some newer pictures. The axle is now SUA. I relocated and shortened the axle's shock mounts so they will work the the truck's stock mounts (not shown in pic). I also need a square u-bolt.

The point I was making is that your post springs are about 1-1.5" further outboard than my current configuration, so it seems you have plenty of space for a new pair of perches.



First test drive!

[KaiserMan]

Thanks for the pics Mikel. That J300 is looking mighty fine!
That tie rod looks like it would work fine for my Jeep. I may have to do the same thing.

I actually found a D60 TRE that has that drag link hole built into it. It was part of a kit though, and the seller didn't offer it seperately.

The stock Dodge perches are 32.5" apart, center to center. Mine are 39". That means I have to move the perches over 3.25" per side... (I was actually think ing 3.5" ealier, I messed my math up) but it still puts the perches right near the inner c. There will be enough room, but at full steering lock the tires will come close. Your perches are in line with the old, stock Dodge perches right?

[Tad]

Can a FSJ DPA (74+) be reamed out to take a one ton TRE? Safely, that is.

Yes.


There is a good deal of meat to work with there.




If you need better pic's I can grab some when I get home tonight.

[KaiserMan]

Thanks Tad. I thought I remembered you doing something like that.

I was also thinking i could just make the taper fit my stock drag link. I'd have the tiny TRE's on it, but I could dirve it, and make a one ton TRE drag link later, and just ream the hole (on the plate like in Mikels pic) out larger.

[Mikel]

Is that front axle mounted yet??!?

[KaiserMan]

Lol. Nope. I'm making spring perches, and figureing out u bolts. I want to run the square u bolts like the truck has now. I'm going to have some new ones made from 9/16" stock this weekend. It looks like I can also run a Chevy tie rod, flip it and reem the hole (made into the tie rod) for the steering stabilizer and mount my drag link to that.

[KaiserMan]

Okay, here is what I've come up with so far.

I've got one perch made (it does sit on the diff about 1/8" where the tube goes into it), got some 9/16" 2" square u bolts, ground of the old shock mounts and ground some flat spots in the diff (again, where the tube goes into it) for some u bolt clearance.

I also ordered a GM D60 tie rod, TRE and adjuster sleeve. The GM tie rod has a hole in the drivers side right near the TRE for a steering stabilizer to mount. I'm going to flip the tire rod around to the hole is on the passengers side, and reem it out to take a 1 ton TRE. Then I can mount the drag link (which I will make out of the Dodge tie rod) like the 74+ FSJ's do.

Still waiting for my u bolt plates, which will be made from 4x6x3/8" plate with a 1" lip on the 6" side.

I also found out that my GM 16x6.5" wheel won't fit over the massive D60 hubs, so I'm going to source some Dodge 16x6" wheels.

My 400 will be back from the shop next Wednesday, so this may go on teh back burner for a couple of weeks. I may not even swap it in, I REALLY like my c/k D44. I may just makeit a bolt in deal and sell it, or save it for future use. I don't know. I'm up in the air about it.

[jepj2000]

Come on Thom, you got us all teased up about this and now you may not even install it, what's that about?

I would really like to see this thing finished up and see how it likes it under a post mount Jtruck. I'm going to be following this thread, so don't leave us hanging to long.

Rankin

[KaiserMan]

Very minor update. I FINALLY got my tie rod back from my buddy. Nice thing is though, he didn't charge me a dime for his work.

I now have the u-bolts, one perch done, spring plates and the tie rod. I still need to finish the other perch, weld on the spring plates (they are going on the bottom of the axle, like the 97 Ford we have at work) and get the hole reamed on the tie rod. No luck finding a reamer, so I'm just buying one.

still not sure if I will swap it in, but I'm going to do it up to the point that I can just unbolt my C/K 44, roll the 60 under the truck and bolt it in.

I'll make my decision at that point.

So....there may or may not be a bolt in D60 for any 63-71 Gladiator/J-Truck available inteh future.

Still can't find any dang locking hubs.

I also decided that if I do run the axle, I want to run stock 16" Dodge split rims. As long as I can find a nice set of clean ones. Rusty split rims are dangerous.

[KaiserMan]

I just tired fitting a spare draglink into the taperd hole in the GM tie rod...nice tight fit. Looks like it's the same size as the stock early FSJ TRE's.

So I don't even need to build a new drag link or ream the hole. I'll probably have to cut the my stock drag link down.

I tell you, I'm so on the fence it's not funny. Half a thought in either direction tips me.

I think I need to buy another post mount Jeep to slap one of my axles under.

Hmm...or maybe I'll conver the 60 to five lug and put it under the 63....

[KaiserMan]

Okay, some updates.

The 60 is back from the fab shop. Got my perches and u bolt plates welded on. Came out pretty nice. I've also got the top half of the axle painted. Ordered up some new Bendix rotors ($18 bucks eachy from advanced auto online, $75 each at the store. Figure that out!) wheel hub seals, pinion seals, 16 9/16" wheel studs and both spindle bearing kits. I'm curerntly working on where I can mount mu shocks. I'm thinking of using F250 shock mounts and F350 spring top plates (they have a shock mount built into them).


One hub all painted. Also cleaned up one of the super winch hubs. Anyone want to trade for some Selectro's?


Crappy pic to show just how long these hubs are with lockouts.




Rear passengers mount. I got the idea for the u-bolt tie plates form the 97 F350 we have at work. Ford used this style on the passengers side. That's just alot of dirt on the paint, btw. It's not all spotty.




Passengers front.


Drivers rear.


Stock drag link fits right up. This is a GM Tie rod I had cut down 1", and mounted flipped. This end should be on the drivers side.


Cut and re-threaded end. With super duper adjuster sleeve.

I'm not sure how much room I will have for the drag link as it passes under the passengers side spring. It LOOKS fine (I mounted some old 8 leaf spring packs on the axle earlier), but I won't really know untill it's under the truck.

I'm going to add an aal to each pack to stiffen them up, and give them more arch. That should help keep the drag link away from them.

[KaiserMan]

Got my upper u-bolt plates made today. I was planning on buying some from Ford. Basically the same things as what I made, but with a shock mount built into it. I figured they would be fairly cheap. WRONG! $63.58 EACH! Major rip off.

So I made these for free. I was going to weld on a shock mount just like the Fords, but I just realized that I need to have the lower mount position the shock behind the axle tube in order to run my stock mounts. I'd like to keep them, but may have to end up with the Ford towers.

Passangers side. The bolts are spaced farther apart on this side then they are the drivers side (since the inner legs of the bolt go over part of the diff).


Drivers side.


Stock ubolts. If your thinking they are tiny, your right. They are only 7/16"! Seems to work fine though. I've never seen a broken one. My new u-bolts are 9/16"

I also just bought these wheels from the seller off ebay. He's only about 45 minutes from me. I scored them for $160. Not bad as they are brand new. They are Ford 16x7 wheels with the big 4 13/16" center hole I need to go over my Dodge front hubs, and they take the 9/16" wheel studs.
If those u-bolt plates are almost $64 each, imagine what Ford wants for these wheels!


A pic of the front and back side of the four rims.