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  #121  
Old 03-28-2020, 03:06 PM
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wincher wincher is offline
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Between short another point.


from the elektrik choke goes the wire to the alternator.
there are only 6,? V on the e-choke - with engine running.


I have wondered how long the choke was closed...


and the engine smokes extremely after cold start.
and smells at fuel and blue smoke....


why no 12 V from the alternator?


with this wiring the choke is only heating after starting.


Have found a youtube video with 12 V after ignition is on.
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  #122  
Old 03-29-2020, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher



My "new" board.
Did the 5 V part as you can see on the heater board.
ground them on the heater ground (white wire)
12 V comes from the pin 15 (I)
the radio noise suppressor is ok,
the 5 V are for the A3 and A2.

The conductor path to A1 is ok.


Unfortunately I have not tested al with the multimeter...
Now I have
no oil pressure
no fuel
temp is full hot








rang-a-stang, where are you? curfew, stay at home and help mie please


Here some updates:
With the 7805CVR, installed like you see in the pic, i have
5,3V V at A2
5,36 V at A1
12,9 V at A3 but 5,3 V at the red cable soldered near the A3 Nut"
12,97 V at I (Nut)

3,08 V between A2 and S2 (Fuel Gauge)1
All measured using the good new ground of the cluster



With igniition ON but the engine not started:
Temp gauge is in the green part, 3 mm before the mark to the HOT area


Please explain me that you have written once before:


"So I removed the connection between pin 15 and I."


I put Pin 15 to the input of the regulator, I put the output of the regulator on A3 and I grounded the regulator to by dash.

I tried hooking up the round connector to do a quick op check: No dice/didn't work. I was pretty frustrated at this point so I buttoned up for the night. This week I will take a multi-meter and verify I have 12 volts at the input to the regulator (pin 15), that I have a good ground for the regulator, and that I have 5 volts out (at A3)."


Babywag qoute:

"All the gauges will die if the CVR inside the coolant gauge fails."


Have found a error after removing the surrpressor. No voltage at A3. The printed circuit was brocken near the soldered red wire jumper.

Did a new jumper between A2 and A3, have now 5V on A3 ant the fuel is at half.
Will try tomorrow the oil and temp gauge when engine is running an warm.


Unserstand now what the preowner did.
The CVR in the temp gauge was defect and 12 V was on A3

He put in the green ohmic resistance before pin 11 ignition and the complete board has only 6,7V
With the soldered jumper wire he goes with the 6,7V from 15 to A1, A2
He scratchted the printed circuit left and right from A3 and separated this way the 12 V (A3) from A1 and A2.
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Last edited by wincher : 04-03-2020 at 12:06 PM.
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  #123  
Old 04-03-2020, 12:16 PM
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wincher wincher is offline
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Electronic control unit , voltage...

I want recognize my jeep and have to check all because they are so many mistakes from a unprofessional rebuilt.
Im on the 1978 manual . page 201
this wiring is differgent to the wiring diagramm on page 399 and mine.



I have the following
electronic modul:


blue wire; distributor
white wire: distributor
green wire: coil minus
yellow wire: coil plus
yellow splice to 50 dash connector
yellow splice to voltage regulator white wire



voltage regulator
F black - Alternator
S white - to yellow electronic modul
S white . not connected
A yellow- starter soleniod
A yellow- not connected
I grenn- not connected


Starter soleniod-



big connectors
starting motor, the other is Battery and red 55 to ammeter(OK)
small connectors
light blue 14 from dash board , neutral safety, igniion switch (OK)
the other small one is not connected ! no red 13E to the coil plus connector!
Is ist necessary to complete this?

no capacitor jumper from coil plus1


alternator
BAT to 12 red dash connector and ammeter, ignition switch (OK)
black wire tor voltage regulator black (F)
in the circuit diagramm is the alternator FLD to green voltage regulator
By mine is gren not used and the alternator on black. mistake??





there was a 3. wire from the alternator case to the electric choke with around 6V without fuse.
have disconnected them and put the e choke to wire 13 red as in pic below above.
have now 12 V when ignition is ON and the choke opens faster.
A inline fuse will be added.



What is true or false here?


regards and stay healthy!!
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Last edited by wincher : 04-03-2020 at 12:41 PM.
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  #124  
Old 04-05-2020, 11:27 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
...
Some infos about my cluster and wiring.

not so important: have found the seat belt lamp, the connector for the timer and the buzzer. But no switch on the belt ... how is the imput for the seat belt warning?

lm missing the Lamp E emergency drive and the park break socket is a little broken.

important
on the board was a soldered jumper wire between A3, I, and A2
my gauges was
fuel: totaly full
temp: totaly cold
oil pressure: total zero.
and this after the good ground.

At my opinion the jumper to I is wrong.

I have cut them of.

now my gauges are
fuel: total empty
temp: totaly hot
oil; zero

(A3 and A2 have to be connected, but not I...)

The pin 4 ground was soldered
the pin 3 (oil) and 1 (emergency) looks loose.
tommorow morning i will solve the problems hopefully
It is time to roll out from the garage and go to setting the carb and ignition and do a test drive for the transmission, kickdown and so on.
Oh man! Someone did some hacking on your gauge panel! Gees!
I don't believe there is any connection between the actual seat belts and the seat belt timer/buzzer. I think it just buzzes and turns the light on for a few seconds when you start your truck. At least that is how mine works. There is one wire that connects to the front seat belt re-tractors down the on the floor so maybe that is what senses? Not sure. But I know for sure there is no switch in the seat belt buckle or the seat itself.

You have a few posts for me to catch up on. So let me see where you went with these.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
My "new" board.
Did the 5 V part as you can see on the heater board.
ground them on the heater ground (white wire)
12 V comes from the pin 15 (I)
the radio noise suppressor is ok,
the 5 V are for the A3 and A2.

The conductor path to A1 is ok.

Unfortunately I have not tested al with the multimeter...
Now I have
no oil pressure
no fuel
temp is full hot

Ok, that looks pretty OK! So, next step, Did you measure voltage at A1/A2/A3? Is it now a clean 5v? When I installed mine, I had to open up my heater gauge and remove the left over voltage rectifier inside by using a piece of heat shrink. In my thread I referenced above, it is post #15. If you have No oil pressure and no fuel, you probably do not have a clean 5 Volts there, yet.
You are in the ball park! Don't get too frustrated! You are about to fix this and be home free! I know the feeling but you are sooooo close!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Between short another point.

from the elektrik choke goes the wire to the alternator.
there are only 6,? V on the e-choke - with engine running.

I have wondered how long the choke was closed...

and the engine smokes extremely after cold start.
and smells at fuel and blue smoke....

why no 12 V from the alternator?

with this wiring the choke is only heating after starting.

Have found a youtube video with 12 V after ignition is on.
When your engine is running, are you measure voltage across your battery, that should be 13+ volts. That should be coming from your alternator.

yeah, when you start your engine, the choke should be cold/closed. then as soon as you start it, you should be getting 12v on the choke line, and it heats up and slowly opens. I think there is always 12v on that line a long as the engine is running...I think.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
rang-a-stang, where are you? curfew, stay at home and help mie please

Here some updates:
With the 7805CVR, installed like you see in the pic, i have
5,3V V at A2
5,36 V at A1
12,9 V at A3 but 5,3 V at the red cable soldered near the A3 Nut"
12,97 V at I (Nut)

3,08 V between A2 and S2 (Fuel Gauge)1
All measured using the good new ground of the cluster

With igniition ON but the engine not started:
Temp gauge is in the green part, 3 mm before the mark to the HOT area

Please explain me that you have written once before:

"So I removed the connection between pin 15 and I."

I put Pin 15 to the input of the regulator, I put the output of the regulator on A3 and I grounded the regulator to by dash.

I tried hooking up the round connector to do a quick op check: No dice/didn't work. I was pretty frustrated at this point so I buttoned up for the night. This week I will take a multi-meter and verify I have 12 volts at the input to the regulator (pin 15), that I have a good ground for the regulator, and that I have 5 volts out (at A3)."

Babywag qoute:

"All the gauges will die if the CVR inside the coolant gauge fails."

Have found a error after removing the surrpressor. No voltage at A3. The printed circuit was brocken near the soldered red wire jumper.

Did a new jumper between A2 and A3, have now 5V on A3 ant the fuel is at half.
Will try tomorrow the oil and temp gauge when engine is running an warm.

Unserstand now what the preowner did.
The CVR in the temp gauge was defect and 12 V was on A3

He put in the green ohmic resistance before pin 11 ignition and the complete board has only 6,7V
With the soldered jumper wire he goes with the 6,7V from 15 to A1, A2
He scratchted the printed circuit left and right from A3 and separated this way the 12 V (A3) from A1 and A2.
SOOO much here... Let's see if I can catch up:
Sorry, bud! Been slammed with work and getting my truck back on the road! hopefully this post will help!
If you have 5.3 at A1 and A2, you should have working oil and fuel gauges. If they are not, then the next step for those gauges is to start troubleshooting their senders. 12v at A3 is bad! You have to find where that 12V is coming from. I am going to guess from inside your temp gauge.

"So I removed the connection between pin 15 and I."
12V comes in on pin 15, follows the foils on the circuit board to pin I on the temp guage. Somehow, you have to remove that 12v. On mine I did that by opening up the Temp gauge and installing shrink wrap on the inside of the post. Right now, your 12V is going into your temp gauge and messing it up.

I think you are spot on, too! What you said makes PERFECT sense (about what the previous owner did). You are fixing it correctly, though! nice job!!! You're thread (this one) is really fun because you are going through it well and logically! keep it up!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
I want recognize my jeep and have to check all because they are so many mistakes from a unprofessional rebuilt.
Im on the 1978 manual . page 201
this wiring is differgent to the wiring diagramm on page 399 and mine.


I have the following
electronic modul:

blue wire; distributor
white wire: distributor
green wire: coil minus
yellow wire: coil plus
yellow splice to 50 dash connector
yellow splice to voltage regulator white wire

voltage regulator
F black - Alternator
S white - to yellow electronic modul
S white . not connected
A yellow- starter soleniod
A yellow- not connected
I grenn- not connected

Starter soleniod-

big connectors
starting motor, the other is Battery and red 55 to ammeter(OK)
small connectors
light blue 14 from dash board , neutral safety, igniion switch (OK)
the other small one is not connected ! no red 13E to the coil plus connector!
Is ist necessary to complete this?

no capacitor jumper from coil plus1

alternator
BAT to 12 red dash connector and ammeter, ignition switch (OK)
black wire tor voltage regulator black (F)
in the circuit diagramm is the alternator FLD to green voltage regulator
By mine is gren not used and the alternator on black. mistake??

there was a 3. wire from the alternator case to the electric choke with around 6V without fuse.
have disconnected them and put the e choke to wire 13 red as in pic below above.
have now 12 V when ignition is ON and the choke opens faster.
A inline fuse will be added.

What is true or false here?

regards and stay healthy!!
If I remember correctly, You have a Prestolite distributor, right? If so, yours will be pretty different than this. This diagram is the Duraspark setup.

It's kind of hard to verify wiring like this, via forums like this. Is there a particular function that is not working? I do think your choke wire is messed up. It should have 12V on it when the key is on.
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  #125  
Old 04-06-2020, 01:42 PM
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wincher wincher is offline
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nice to hear from you!


gauges:
fuel is in the middle. should be ok.
oil is down, temp is down.
after grounding the wires at both senders both gauges go to full or hot.
cant meassure a ohmic resistance from the oil gange

the error must be in the two senders.


front seat belt re-tractors down the on the floor ? I have no idea what a re-tractor is... At my opinion the seat belt timer is missing, the connector is without function
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Last edited by wincher : 04-06-2020 at 01:49 PM.
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  #126  
Old 04-06-2020, 01:54 PM
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the transfer case is leaking, i want to buy a seal kit.
and I will test the chain length, i need the fluid ..
i cant get a licence plate . corona closed agency.
so it is time to do further repairs on the old big installation site.
Will look at rockauto or bjsoffroad for parts..
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  #127  
Old 04-06-2020, 09:34 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
nice to hear from you!

gauges:
fuel is in the middle. should be ok.
oil is down, temp is down.
after grounding the wires at both senders both gauges go to full or hot.
cant meassure a ohmic resistance from the oil gange

the error must be in the two senders.

front seat belt re-tractors down the on the floor ? I have no idea what a re-tractor is... At my opinion the seat belt timer is missing, the connector is without function
Yep! Another quick check; you should have 5V at the connector to the senders when the key is on. If you do, a) make sure you have a really good engine ground and b) order a new sender.

Congrats!!! That's fantastic that you fixed these!!!
Temp sender is cheap and easy to replace. Oil pressure is pretty cheap and fairly easy to replace so you are in a good place.

Yeah, the seat belt retractor is bolted to your floor just behind the front seats, against the side of your cab. It's the box that collects/rolls up your seat belt when you take it off. There is one wire that is connected to it. If I recall, it runs under the carpet to that box. There is a little plastic door like cover on the back of it and one huge Torx bolt holds the whole thing to the floor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
the transfer case is leaking, i want to buy a seal kit.
and I will test the chain length, i need the fluid ..
i cant get a licence plate . corona closed agency.
so it is time to do further repairs on the old big installation site.
Will look at rockauto or bjsoffroad for parts..
HAHAHAHA!!! Of course it does!!! They all do!!! I have opened mine about 5 times in the last 3 years and ALWAYS use new seals when I put it together yet it still leaks! Drives me nuts!!! I really hope you have better luck than I do!
The case is pretty darn easy to work on and the service manual has most of what you need to know. Some quick lessons learned:
1) To remove the case, it is easier to unbolt the front drive shaft at the front axle and remove the case with the front drive shaft attached. You will also most likely have to remove the low range unit before unbolting the case.
2) You would be VERY wise to make guide pins for installing the case. I bought some expensive bolts, cut the heads off, and used those as guide pins this last time I installed mine. It is VERY easy to mess up the seals when you are man handleing the case to put it back in if you do not have alingment guide pins.
3) I found the easiest way to service the case is to remove it whole, take it apart on your bench, clean everything, replace all the seals, install the half that bolts to the transmission first, then put it back together underneath your truck.
4) Even if you do not have a mile marker part time kit, the instructions for it are online and really good. There are tons of write ups about this case. do your research and it is an easy 6 hour job and not very expensive (except for the chain, that sucks, it's expensive).
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  #128  
Old 04-07-2020, 12:47 PM
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wincher wincher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Yep! Another quick check; you should have 5V at the connector to the senders when the key is on. If you do, a) make sure you have a really good engine ground and b) order a new sender.

Congrats!!! That's fantastic that you fixed these!!!
Temp sender is cheap and easy to replace. Oil pressure is pretty cheap and fairly easy to replace so you are in a good place.

Yeah, the seat belt retractor is bolted to your floor just behind the front seats, against the side of your cab. It's the box that collects/rolls up your seat belt when you take it off. There is one wire that is connected to it. If I recall, it runs under the carpet to that box. There is a little plastic door like cover on the back of it and one huge Torx bolt holds the whole thing to the floor.









HAHAHAHA!!! Of course it does!!! They all do!!! I have opened mine about 5 times in the last 3 years and ALWAYS use new seals when I put it together yet it still leaks! Drives me nuts!!! I really hope you have better luck than I do!
The case is pretty darn easy to work on and the service manual has most of what you need to know. Some quick lessons learned:
1) To remove the case, it is easier to unbolt the front drive shaft at the front axle and remove the case with the front drive shaft attached. You will also most likely have to remove the low range unit before unbolting the case.
2) You would be VERY wise to make guide pins for installing the case. I bought some expensive bolts, cut the heads off, and used those as guide pins this last time I installed mine. It is VERY easy to mess up the seals when you are man handleing the case to put it back in if you do not have alingment guide pins.
3) I found the easiest way to service the case is to remove it whole, take it apart on your bench, clean everything, replace all the seals, install the half that bolts to the transmission first, then put it back together underneath your truck.
4) Even if you do not have a mile marker part time kit, the instructions for it are online and really good. There are tons of write ups about this case. do your research and it is an easy 6 hour job and not very expensive (except for the chain, that sucks, it's expensive).




Thanks for your encouraging words!
I have to do all this allone. I know only one guy with a chief, and he has one in very good state and is 800km away from me in Hamburg
So we talk only over phone and whatsapp , but he has not to do all that repair.
to 1) I have to dismount the low range unit under the car ?

to 2) I have a hydraulik gear jack and a lifting ramp. can i make the guide pins with metric screws? or wich size must the pins have? a friend has a turning machine...
to 4) the part time kit is interessting. but this is a step in the future maybe.


I fear that i have to do the engine to. complete seal kit for crankshaft, oilpan, cylinder head, valve covers.... and i hope i need not more like piston rings ....
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Last edited by wincher : 04-07-2020 at 01:42 PM.
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  #129  
Old 04-08-2020, 01:31 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Thanks for your encouraging words!
I have to do all this allone. I know only one guy with a chief, and he has one in very good state and is 800km away from me in Hamburg
So we talk only over phone and whatsapp , but he has not to do all that repair.
to 1) I have to dismount the low range unit under the car ?

to 2) I have a hydraulik gear jack and a lifting ramp. can i make the guide pins with metric screws? or wich size must the pins have? a friend has a turning machine...
to 4) the part time kit is interessting. but this is a step in the future maybe.


I fear that i have to do the engine to. complete seal kit for crankshaft, oilpan, cylinder head, valve covers.... and i hope i need not more like piston rings ....
1) As originally installed, there is a large C-Clip that holds a planetary gear on the transmission output shaft. You cannot take the case off the trans with that C-Clip on there and you cannot take the C-Clip off the planetary with the Low Range unit on there. It's pretty darn easy to remove the Low range unit, just a little messy. Probably a 15 minute job if you have never done it and there are no special tools needed. It's also relatively light and you can easily man handle it out of there.
I have read some people will re-install the low-range until/planetary without the C-Clip but I always install it.
2) Yeah, that jack will help a lot but it is still a bit awkward. The case (without the low range unit) is not tooo heavy, it's just an awkward shape. You could use metric pins if you re-tapped the holes to metric, I guess. I don't remember the size, sorry about that. If I recall, they are all the same size, so if you pull one bolt out, you could use that bolt to find the correct size to make your pins.
4) For sure! I Have never opened the stock QT diff pack so hopefully someone else will be able to help you out there if you have problems.
Oh, One more lesson learned
5) I used about 4 cans of brake cleaner on cleaning mine up. I bought 6 cans and used most of them. If you need parts, use the want ads on this forum. If you try to buy them new or use EBay, you are going to get raped. Most of us have spare QT parts laying around we love to ship off for cheap.

I have been fighting fluid leaks since the day I bought my truck and it still leaks. Take one leak at a time. Before you do the rear main seal, though, verify it is not leaking out the back of your intake manifold. When it leaks out the rear of the intake manifold, it drips down the head, down the side of the block, and drips off the bottom of the engine or sometimes it just dribbles down the back of the block to the oil pan. Often times it looks ALOT like a rear main seal. I would do your valve covers just because (that's a 30 minute job, it's cheap, and you can almost certainly bet they leak). Then, go clean your engine off and see where the next leak is coming from.
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  #130  
Old 04-11-2020, 06:56 AM
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wincher wincher is offline
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Today I did a washing of the car and the underground and the engine.


have ordered this sealing kit for the Transfer Case and 4 bottles crown TCL-1 fluid
We have a tool for parts cleaning with a barrel an a pump, dont know the word for it.

I am optimistic




engine starts und runs good with the 70x47 rods.

But only a a few meters on the yard


The transmission linkage is still not right.
As before i have Park ok but Reverse is on N, Neutral is on D, Drive is on 2..... The reversing light is correct when the car drives reverse
Why is such a long path from P to R??
have adjusted the linkage beginning with N..
any tip? have to check them sometime.



Happy Easter!
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  #131  
Old 04-11-2020, 08:07 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Today I did a washing of the car and the underground and the engine.

have ordered this sealing kit for the Transfer Case and 4 bottles crown TCL-1 fluid
We have a tool for parts cleaning with a barrel an a pump, dont know the word for it.

I am optimistic

engine starts und runs good with the 70x47 rods.

But only a a few meters on the yard

The transmission linkage is still not right.
As before i have Park ok but Reverse is on N, Neutral is on D, Drive is on 2..... The reversing light is correct when the car drives reverse
Why is such a long path from P to R??
have adjusted the linkage beginning with N..
any tip? have to check them sometime.

Happy Easter!
HAPPY EASTER INDEED!!!!

I am, too (optimistic!)! When you are replacing the seals on the input side, there are 2 seals there and they face opposite directions. Pay special attention when removing them so you know which way to install them, and when installing them so you don't start a new leak between the trans and the case.

You have 2 input seals, then one seal for each output. When you seat the seal on the rear output (to the rear axle), it sits about 1/2" in the lip. Not flush.
Here is where I was working on that leak:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=187381

Also, not all cases use the huge O-Ring seal around the halves. I think only cases made in 1979. So when you take yours apart, you may or may not have one. If you do not have one, use RTV instead. I have also never disassembled a Low Range Unit. I take it off, clean it out with some break cleaner, and put it back on. I am not saying you should not disassemble yours, I just never have.

Is there anything in the manual about shift linkage adjustment? I never had to mess with my shift linkage other than unhooking it to remove the trans and hooking it back up when I was done. It has always been where I wanted it to be.

When you say
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
engine starts und runs good with the 70x47 rods.
But only a a few meters on the yard
Do you mean after a few meters it does not run good, or do you mean, you have only driven it a few meters on the yard and it does run good?
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  #132  
Old 04-12-2020, 08:04 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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Try putting the shift linkage in low(1) and then adjust your shift linkage. Also be very careful when installing the transfer case back into the rear of the transmission, you do not want to let it hang there you must support the transfer case and carefully slide it onto the transmission so you do not tear the seals, use a friend or a jack to support the transfer case. Your shift linkage in the steering column may also be worn out which will not allow the pointer to align with the indicator.
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  #133  
Old 04-12-2020, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
HAPPY EASTER INDEED!!!!

Quote:
I am, too (optimistic!)! When you are replacing the seals on the input side, there are 2 seals there and they face opposite directions. Pay special attention when removing them so you know which way to install them, and when installing them so you don't start a new leak between the trans and the case.


Yes I have seen it on TSM 2D33 Fig 2D-50
the rear seal stops at the neelde bearing or before?
Only anywhere behind the seal bore?
The front seal the same?

have no special tools like in 2D-51


You have 2 input seals, then one seal for each output. When you seat the seal on the rear output (to the rear axle), it sits about 1/2" in the lip. Not flush.
Here is where I was working on that leak:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=187381

Quote:
Also, not all cases use the huge O-Ring seal around the halves. I think only cases made in 1979. So when you take yours apart, you may or may not have one. If you do not have one, use RTV instead. I have also never disassembled a Low Range Unit. I take it off, clean it out with some break cleaner, and put it back on. I am not saying you should not disassemble yours, I just never have.


RTV is a fluid seal?



first I will test the torque for the diff cones. ... release should be between 80to 170 foot pounds
And how to test the chain without plunger indicator tool?
How many inches from the case to the chain when pressing someting in und

tension the chain?


Is there anything in the manual about shift linkage adjustment? I never had to mess with my shift linkage other than unhooking it to remove the trans and hooking it back up when I was done. It has always been where I wanted it to be.

When you say

Do you mean after a few meters it does not run good, or do you mean, you have only driven it a few meters on the yard and it does run good?




I have only driven it a few meters on the yard before the garage... moved in a circle and rear ..
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  #134  
Old 04-12-2020, 10:35 AM
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fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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In case you haven't seen the QT TSM yet, there is a link to the 77 version here:

http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac

In 79 a few changes were made:
1 - The long rubber seal (o-ring) for the case halves was deleted. RTV is used to seal there.
2 - The paper gasket between the tranny adapter and QT was deleted and a groove was made for a rubber seal (o-ring) there. I imagine you can use the paper gasket there but I'm not sure of that.
3 - The vent is no longer a cap style. The vent on the Edrive shifter inspection plate has a nipple and uses a 3rd metal tube to vent up at the firewall in an upside down J shape.

That said... After 41 years, the QT could have been swapped out for a 73-78 unit too.
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88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s with a few Evil Twin & TT's Fabworks mods
76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
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  #135  
Old 04-12-2020, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by fulsizjeep
In case you haven't seen the QT TSM yet, there is a link to the 77 version here:

http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac

In 79 a few changes were made:
1 - The long rubber seal (o-ring) for the case halves was deleted. RTV is used to seal there.
2 - The paper gasket between the tranny adapter and QT was deleted and a groove was made for a rubber seal (o-ring) there. I imagine you can use the paper gasket there but I'm not sure of that.
3 - The vent is no longer a cap style. The vent on the Edrive shifter inspection plate has a nipple and uses a 3rd metal tube to vent up at the firewall in an upside down J shape.




That said... After 41 years, the QT could have been swapped out for a 73-78 unit too.


Hi,
i work on my Chief like a 1978 model. Have the glas fuses, 3 part bumper, razor grill. But my VIN is a 1979...


I use the QT pages of the 1978 TSM and know the jubilejeep pages, but have not compared all pages. 1978 should be fitting or not?
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Old 04-12-2020, 02:04 PM
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fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Hi,
i work on my Chief like a 1978 model. Have the glas fuses, 3 part bumper, razor grill. But my VIN is a 1979...


I use the QT pages of the 1978 TSM and know the jubilejeep pages, but have not compared all pages. 1978 should be fitting or not?

That's kind of weird but not surprising. All the QTs physically fit across the years (73-79). That is not an issue. I have a 79 TSM but as far as I can tell, not much changed in the QT section. Some other things did change during the 79 FSJ production, like door and tailgate latches. I think the same applies to how far the front doors opened up.
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Ran when parked.
http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac
88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s with a few Evil Twin & TT's Fabworks mods
76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
http://eviltwinfab.com http://www.ttsfabworks.com
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  #137  
Old 04-13-2020, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiley-moeracing
Try putting the shift linkage in low(1) and then adjust your shift linkage. Also be very careful when installing the transfer case back into the rear of the transmission, you do not want to let it hang there you must support the transfer case and carefully slide it onto the transmission so you do not tear the seals, use a friend or a jack to support the transfer case. Your shift linkage in the steering column may also be worn out which will not allow the pointer to align with the indicator.




Thanks for that tip wiley!
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Old 04-13-2020, 06:50 AM
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for the QT chain i have found this on jubileejeeps.



To check the tension of the chain, insert a screwdriver in the chain-inspection hole at the bottom of the case after the fluid is drained. Push up on the bottom of the chain to see how loose it is; if there's more than a half inch of slop, the chain should be replaced.
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Old 04-17-2020, 11:54 AM
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some news:


1) have installed a new crown temp sender.
with engine warm he has 28 ohms (looks for me ok. )

gauge is still at total cold.
with grounding the wire it goes to hot.


2) have E-Drive bulb!!
I used the bulb socket from the fasten belt bulb and did the wiring ...
turning the emergeny drive swith clockwise i hear a air noise and the bulb goes on! Yeehaa!!


3) the reduction shifts easy, with running enginge an Trans on N
And it works.


4 )after a few minutes driving at the yard a few turns i raised up the car.
it seems the transfer case is not so leaky as suspectet.
- the shift lever of the reduction: I have a new seal kit in front of me.

It is only one o-ring included, and i think it is for the control diaphragm

Why is the o-ring for the shift lever not included?
what is the correct size?
can i change them from outerside without remove the Reduction unit?


5) a further leakage is from the vacuum shifter cap.


6) a furhter leakage is the governor cover. can i remove it without drain the ATF? Will make a new gasket (gasket paper.)
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Old 04-17-2020, 11:57 AM
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