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  #441  
Old 02-24-2020, 09:23 AM
Wagoneer Taylor's Avatar
Wagoneer Taylor Wagoneer Taylor is offline
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Hey Marc, I feel for ya. I used to get all hot and bothered when my dad would get on me about keeping a car clean. But I quickly figured it out once you have put the time and energy (not to mention money) into something you expect to have it taken care of accordingly.

Sadly the getting these rigs back on the road is only the beginning, next is working out the gremlins that lay dormant from lack of use.

You'll get this stuff figured out, we've seen you do it before!
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1977 Jeep Wagoneer (Wedding Wagon)
Soon to be a 401!
"Soon" is a relative term, also cracked cylinder put a hurt on me
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  #442  
Old 02-24-2020, 12:12 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Nah, I am good with it. I am 90 percent sure it is just the safety switch connector coming loose. The window is up so it is not a big issue, I just have to crawl back there and pull the access panel and hook it back up or jumper it.

Honestly, finally having it at a point where I can just hop in and take a ride is refreshing and re-motivating. It has taken me almost 2 years to get here. Even before I tore it apart, I could drive it but it kinda sucked. Gutless, stinky, dirty, rattley but bad@$$ and loud. It feels good to finally only be dealing with gremlins and not self imposed casualties, mistakes, and a never ending list of failure prone cheapnese parts failing.
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  #443  
Old 02-24-2020, 01:04 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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Location: Benson. NC
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it happens on almost every build,.....

the one thing, or several things that make you question the whole idea...

I just had a 360 built, installed on frame
body panels, etc installed, it was really coming together when,.....

then the motor fails while idling,....wore the cam lobe down in minutes....

so,....another rebuild, going to be re installed this week.

glad it happened while the mechanic had it, and not me.

dave
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
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  #444  
Old 02-28-2020, 12:36 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLSAKS
...I just had a 360 built, installed on frame
body panels, etc installed, it was really coming together when,.....

then the motor fails while idling,....wore the cam lobe down in minutes....

so,....another rebuild, going to be re installed this week.

glad it happened while the mechanic had it, and not me.
OOOOHH NNOOOO DAVE!! On your red Honcho?!?! Since it happened under their watch, it's their problem, right? This is awful to hear. I wonder if you got a cam from the same lot as full size jeeper's first cam? Was yours a Comp Cams 270H?
*********************************
Earlier this week my midget and I pulled my stock governor out cleaned it, weighed the weights, and documented our results. Then we weighed the weights ashpastrockdweller sent, then we ground down on the outer weights on the spare governor and documented those weights and re-installed it. Here are the weights we wrote down:

The way you read this:
Start: spare weights sent from ashpaltrockdweller as sent
Stock: weights pulled out of my rig
Try 1: The weights I installed
combined: inner weights+outer weights+springs, per side
Outer: Primary heavier outer weights=These effect less than WOT 1-2 shift point. The heavier they are the later it shifts
Inner: Secondary small inner weights=these impact the WOT shift point for 1-2 and 2-3. The heavier they are, the sooner they shift. The springs also play into this but I left the stock springs in there.
For now I just messed with the outer weights; Trial and error. I felt like if I messed that up, it would be less noticeable and more enjoyable if I did it right. You'll notice we shaved off about 3.3 grams of metal. It made a slight difference in the 1-2 shift point but it feels good. I am going to leave the outer weights alone now. Next time I open the governor up (probably in May), I'll pull about .4 grams out of the inner weights.


I drove it to work yesterday so I could drop it off at the exhaust shop. Ever since I swapped my chassis, the exhaust does not hang correctly. It does now! No more rattle on the transfer case, no more rattle on the front bump stop, no more rattle on the rear shock! Woo Hoo!

I decided to do a tuning run on my way home from work. I’m in first gear LOVING the sound of 5k+ RPMs! I look down and it’s a little warm on temp gauge. I do 2 or 3 more “pulls” and look down and it’s getting really hot FAST! I look over to my digital dash on my laptop and I’m at 230 degrees! Oh crap! Go to pull over, no power steering. Ah! Threw the belt. Of course I did. I HATE THIS POS SERPENTINE KIT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
Hope you kept all the v-belt pulleys and hardware. Cuz you’re gonna be putting it all back on.
getting close... really close. Grrrrrr....

I pull over, pop the hood to let it cool, and decide to trek back on foot to find the belt. I get about 100 yards down the road and look back to see if I left the hazards on. There’s my belt hanging under my rig. Awesome.
Head back and put it back on as I listen to it gurgle and boil. I noticed my belt is barely too long. When I have it alllll the way tightened it is almost tight enough. Guess I am buying another $45 belt.
Good news is the data looks pretty good. High RPMs still need more fuel but the O2 sensor readings look good and everything seems to be working correctly so that’s good.
Got home, wrote a new BIN, and installed it.

Son got home from an appointment and we decided to wrench a little. He crawled over the back seat, removed the tailgate access panel and reached in to re-attached the safety switch connector. Window works. Opened the window, opened the tailgate, put a jumper in the connector (cuz my switch does not work anyway) and buttoned it all back up.

Moved on to the headliner. Took the rear piece down and was STOKED on the almost rust free interior of my roof!! I was nervous it would be bad around the well nuts since they leaked but nothing! Woo Hoo! Those spots you see in the picture are just dirt/dust and will wipe off.

There was a mouse nest up there...

...and I broke one of these little plastic elbow thingies. Anyone got one? Are they the same between Cherokee and Wagoneer? I put up a wanted ad in the classifieds here.

I thought this was funny; This is all the "sound deadener" that was up there! Good job AMC! Not only is it so small it's pretty much useless, it had also fallen off the roof onto the headliner.

Next up is removing the front headliner and installing my heat/sound barrier on the roof. I will probably burn a couple more BINs between now and my next long business trip but that's all I have planned for the next few months. I will be out of town the entire month of April so I will spend most of March with the boss and my midgets. I am sure I will wrench a little but nothing juicy.
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  #445  
Old 03-05-2020, 10:04 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Last weekend the wife had a project for me to do so we went out to pick up some finished plywood from a local wood shop. I convinced the wife we should take the Jeep since the plywood would fit inside. Had a nice drive out there (about 15 miles one way) and a nice drive home. I could tell she was diggin the cruise. Jeep was earning it's keep.


Then I headed out for a bidness trip Monday morning and got home last night. LLLLllllong story but this happened when I was gone:

I know that's a bad picture but it is the front of the driver side flare. I don't feel like typing the details out of what happened but I am not mad about it. Guess I'll be ordering some BJs flares sooner than I expected.

My son also broke the turn signal stock today. It was already compromised from an earlier mistake he made (he grabbed it thinking it was the tilt handle) when he was learning to drive. I just ordered a new stock and turn signal switch and will install them tomorrow.
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Last edited by rang-a-stang : 03-06-2020 at 11:02 AM.
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  #446  
Old 03-06-2020, 08:15 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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Well that sucks. Can you hammer that flare back into shape?
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  #447  
Old 03-06-2020, 11:05 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Not really because I don't want to hose up the inner part of the flare any more than it already is. I'm going to leave it so my midget has to look at it every time he gets in/out of it. I was planning to replace the flares when I got to Idaho in 2022 anyway but I guess I'll do them this summer instead. It's not rubbing, it's just ugly. I won't be looking at it for a couple months anyway so, I'll leave it there as a reminder for him.
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  #448  
Old 03-06-2020, 02:23 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Not really because I don't want to hose up the inner part of the flare any more than it already is. I'm going to leave it so my midget has to look at it every time he gets in/out of it. I was planning to replace the flares when I got to Idaho in 2022 anyway but I guess I'll do them this summer instead. It's not rubbing, it's just ugly. I won't be looking at it for a couple months anyway so, I'll leave it there as a reminder for him.

What's the reason for the move to Idaho, and where specifically? I just made the permanent move from the SF bay area up here a few months and love it. Did a mission up here in 2018 so was kind of familiar with the area by the time the company decided to move ops up here, so I felt comfortable getting the hell out of CA.
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  #449  
Old 03-06-2020, 02:32 PM
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chubbinius chubbinius is offline
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That's a bummer on the flare, but at least you know how it happened. Had my Wagoneer out two weeks ago for a quick stop at Home Depot, came out to three nice scrapes into the paint on the passenger side front door.
(No note, or apology left. Parking lot camera video didn't show anything of value either as it was opposite side of the camera)

The rear window is very handy when putting them to work...hauled a bunch of eight and ten foot long 4x6 redwood posts in mine when my son was working on his Eagle project.
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  #450  
Old 03-06-2020, 02:45 PM
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Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
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I can only say that it's time to let your son work for his own car!
Or tell him that he has to start using your Jeep in a more careful way!
When my brother and I just got our license and got to drive our dad's older classic car we never trashed or messed it up.

I know it's a old work truck , but just hate to see this happen, even more with a good looking classic car!
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  #451  
Old 03-06-2020, 11:27 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticRob
What's the reason for the move to Idaho, and where specifically? I just made the permanent move from the SF bay area up here a few months and love it. Did a mission up here in 2018 so was kind of familiar with the area by the time the company decided to move ops up here, so I felt comfortable getting the hell out of CA.
Because CA is crazy and getting crazier. The wife and I both love the weather up there and the cost of living is much better. We bought a house south of Meridian about 10 minutes and West of Boise about 10 minutes. If my son was not so well plugged in at school, getting such good grades, doing so well with his sports, and had such a good attitude we would just pack up and go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chubbinius
That's a bummer on the flare, but at least you know how it happened. Had my Wagoneer out two weeks ago for a quick stop at Home Depot, came out to three nice scrapes into the paint on the passenger side front door.
(No note, or apology left. Parking lot camera video didn't show anything of value either as it was opposite side of the camera)

The rear window is very handy when putting them to work...hauled a bunch of eight and ten foot long 4x6 redwood posts in mine when my son was working on his Eagle project.
Bummer! Crankyoldman had a similar story from his truck! Fresh bumps and scratches, no notes. Congrats on your son working toward his Eagle Scout!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heep-J4000
I can only say that it's time to let your son work for his own car!
Or tell him that he has to start using your Jeep in a more careful way!
When my brother and I just got our license and got to drive our dad's older classic car we never trashed or messed it up.

I know it's a old work truck , but just hate to see this happen, even more with a good looking classic car!
You make a valid point but this flare was not him being careless or wreckless. I honestly think he heard me when I balled him out about the dash and the seat. He has been much better about being careful with it. I really think he respects it now. He also gets super excited when we work on it. He likes it when it has problems because he gets to fix it. I expected him to wreck this truck as most teenagers do; I didn't expect a slow degradation like this. The flare is a bummer but not a big deal.
*********************
Turn signal stock/Cruise control switch showed up today. Here's what I got:

I took my multi-meter and checked it in accordance with this check and it all checked out:

My turn signal switch is waiting for me to pick it up tomorrow. I'll borrow the steering wheel puller from McParts when I pick it up and get it all put together. I'll take some good pictures.

I also had some time to kill tonight so I pulled my passenger side power seat bottom out off the shelf and started lubricating it and getting it ready for install. When I first applied power to it, it was really slow. After a ton of light oil and cycling, it works pretty well now. I have the factory harness for it so I might hook the passenger side up this weekend. Maybe. Look at all the areas where it takes oil...

Two of the motors measured 1.4-1.5 ohms across the leads and the third one was about 2.2 ohms. It was also a little slower than the other two so it might be on its way out but it works for now so I'll stab it in. I got these seat bottoms on Craigslist years ago (mwood has the seats that were bolted on to them in his Cherokee). The passenger seat bottom bolts in but the driver side one does not so it will not go in before I go on my next bidness trip.
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  #452  
Old 03-09-2020, 02:34 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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I bought a new passenger side mirror from McParts this weekend and will install it this week. I got Pilot part number MI-015. It looks VERY similiar to the stock factory passenger mirror. It's chromed plastic and feels as cheap as it was but I am not too worried about it. Pics when I install it.

Saturday I swapped the turn signal switch and stock. I bought Duralast SW324 because it had a lifetime warranty. The AC Delco part was the same price but only had a 2 year warranty. Fit and finish was good. I took tons of pics so I could be sure I put it back together in the right order. I figured I would post them all here since I took them. Tons of pics to follow. Most you all won't care about but they are here.
Here's what broke (if you look behind the remant of the turn signal stock, you can see the crack I mention in a few pictures below):

Unhooked the negative battery terminal. I lowered the driver side of the A/C vent but you don't "need" to. It made things easier, though.
Pull the horn button off. I grab at the top of the button and peel toward you and down'ish. There are 3 knubs that hold the button to the horn switch that you have to pull off.

Remove the 3 screws you see and remove the top of the horn button

Remove the nut and washer holding the steering wheel on (I do not have a pic for this). Remove the next 3 screws on the horn switch and remove the second half of the horn switch

Install your steering wheel puller and pull the steering wheel off. I used a borrowed tool from McParts but it was hashed. One bolt had been stripped and the bolt had broken off while the other bolt head was severely damaged. I guess I got what I paid for.


Remove the steering wheel

Remove the trim ring you see. It just comes off (no tools needed)

Install your lock plate tool and depress the lock plate off the retainer clip

Using a pick and small pry bar, remove the small retainer clip

Pull the lock plate off

Remove the horn slip ring holder

Remove the horn slip ring holder spring

Remove the hazard light switch knob (just unscrew it)

Unhook the wiring connector at the bottom of the column

Unhook the cruise control connector

Cut the cruise control connector off the switch harness and tape a small rope or cable to the harness. The rope should be a good 5 feet long.

Cut the old turn signal switch connector off BUT DON'T CUT THE LAST WHITE WIRE (like I did here). This is where I was comparing old connector to new connector and verifying wiring. The wires all match except the horn wire colors. They wires were routed correctly, just the wrong color. DO NOT CUT THE WHITE WIRE.

Stick a tool in the connector like this to remove the white wire from the connector. This tool (or a straightened paper clip) will depress the locking lug and allow you to remove the pin/wire.

Connect another, about 5 foot rope or cable to the cut off end of the turn signal switch

Unscrew the screws that holds the turn signal stock on and pull the harness out of the column from the steering wheel side, letting rope feed through the column. Unscrew the 3 screws holding the turn signal switch to the column and pull it out, letting the rope feed through the column.

Here are the 2 switches next to each other. They appeared identical other than the color.


I noticed that not only was the stock broken but the switch was cracked, too. I know the pic is fuzzy; you'll have to take my word that it was cracked.

At this point, you should see this:

I found it was MUCH easier to remove the wires from the connector for the turn signal switch (with my little tool), then connect the wires to my rope before pulling it down through the column. I tired it once with the connector still on and it got stock about 1/4 of the way down.
I soldered the white wire I cut, put the wires back into the new connector, and then broke the new connector.
Took the wires back out of the now broken new connector, put them into the old connector, and hooked it all back up. Reassembly is the opposite of assembly. The cruise control switch comes with a new connector and it's labeled for easy assembly.

The new turn signal switch is much more crisp. I was so used to the old slopped switch, I assumed that was just they way they were.

Hopefully mirror pictures tomorrow. Another BIN tonight on the way home from work and I need to get the front half of the headliner down. Time is running out before I leave for a month...
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  #453  
Old 03-10-2020, 11:07 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Did anouther 5k+RPM run last night. it really sounds nasty. It runs well to 5,500 RPM now.
Except it chucked the belt again. I contacted Gates today to see what the next size smaller belt would be.

Earlier this weekend, my son called me saying it wouldn't start. He faced-timed me and I heard the tell tale scream of a starter gear spinning without engaging the flex plate. There is no hammer in my tool kit in there so I grabbed a hammer from my tool box and headed out to him. I went down to smack the starter with the hammer and saw that the starter had come loose. I re-tightened the upper bolt but the bottom bolt had stripped out. Cool! But at least he was back on the road, temporarily until I could fix it.

Last night I pulled it in the garage, removed the starter and re-threaded the stripped hole for a 7/16" coarse thread bolt vice the 3/8" coarse that was in there. Also threw a lock washer on there. Done.

Installed my new passenger mirror, too. I am happy with it; It's good enough for my turd. I matched the up and down location to the driver side mirror (just below the decal line) and put it in a place where I can open the vent window more than all the way. I can see about 80% of the mirror from the driver seat but really this is a dummy mirror so my truck looks balanced. Only 2 small holes in the door, also, so if I decide to change mirrors again, later, it should be easy to weld those little holes up.

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  #454  
Old 03-10-2020, 11:43 AM
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Wagoneer Taylor Wagoneer Taylor is offline
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Join Date: Dec 17, 2018
Location: OR
Posts: 329
Holy cow so much to comment on!

Too much in fact so I will stick with exellent work all around and amazing walk through on the steering wheel, wish Id had this when I did some stuff on mine and broke my plastic beauty trim ring collar.

Love the Mirror, reminds me I need to get going on finding a matching set for my rig.

All around inspiring stuff for me!
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Soon to be a 401!
"Soon" is a relative term, also cracked cylinder put a hurt on me
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  #455  
Old 03-10-2020, 03:37 PM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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Join Date: Jan 10, 2016
Location: Burbank Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Except it chucked the belt again. I contacted Gates today to see what the next size smaller belt would be.




Sounds like you might need to put a straight edge on the pulleys again to check alignment. What size is the belt now? I can look in my old Gates book to see what it shows. Text it to me.
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  #456  
Old 03-10-2020, 05:33 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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Check the idler bearings. They fail constantly. I had a idler fall off and had to get a tow home. Put the stock belts on and be done with it.
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Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #457  
Old 03-15-2020, 12:29 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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I ordered a belt from Amazon and it was slightly too short. Exchanged belt shows up tomorrow. Current belt (that is barely too long) is a K0601080 (108.75"). I ordered a K061058 (106.25") and it was too short. So the one that is coming is K061073 (107.75")

I'll straight edge the pulleys again when I pull the engine out in a couple weeks. I did check the idler bearings and they feel good.

We have had a ton of rain here lately and it is super nice. So of course my boy had to go out and exercise it a little! hahaha! He was lightly feathering the throttle (I asked him not to let it rev up too much until I get the knock sensor on). This Jeep is changing my kid in a good way; brings a tear to my eye. Makes me proud! I am pretty convinced he will always own a Jeep from here on out. Good thing the wipers and washers work!
Dirt Doughnut video

Today I went underneath to hook up the QT switch and saw the chassis bracket where the shift linkage connects/pivots had come VERY loose. Not sure how it stayed on there with the bolts that loose. I had to remove the 1/2" bolts and drill/tap the holes for 7/16" bolts because they were so stripped out. Got the xfer case into 4WD but there is vacuum leak in the hard line down to the shift motor and it will not pull enough vacuum to pull it out of 4WD. So I swapped the hoses to take it out of 4WD and made a note to check the hard line when the engine comes out again. Told my son to stay out of the mud until then.

While I was underneath he pulled the forward half of the headliner down.

Again, no hidden rust. Yessssss... Funny, we found 3 factory well nuts up there that had obviously fallen through the roof and were never crimped by AMC. The rubber was ROCK hard but other than that they were perfect.

I knew I would enjoy working on the Jeep with him, but it is SUPER awesome working on it with him. We chat and just have a nice time. He is mature enough where I can point out what to do and he does it mostly himself and I can tend to other things. He feels like he is contributing to the build and learning about tinkering and he really likes that. I like that he is doing more than just holding a flashlight and getting me tools.

Also noticed the radiator has a pinhole leak right in front of the fan. Added to the list of things to fix when the engine comes out.

Here it is with it's new mirror.


With this whole coronavirus BS going around, the government is cutting travel like mad. My big trip this month hasn't been officially cancelled yet but it probably will be by close of business on Monday. My son is home from school for the week (high school is cancelled for at least a week) so if I get word my trip is cancelled on Monday, I am going to pick up my buddy's engine hoist and start pulling the motor out ASAP. There isn't a huge single reason to pull it out; it's a TON of little things (like the 3 I just mentioned in this post) that would be much easier to do with the engine out of the way.
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  #458  
Old 03-15-2020, 08:38 AM
SOLSAKS's Avatar
SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
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cool video !
dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
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  #459  
Old 03-15-2020, 09:29 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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Location: Burbank Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
I ordered a belt from Amazon and it was slightly too short. Exchanged belt shows up tomorrow. Current belt (that is barely too long) is a K0601080 (108.75"). I ordered a K061058 (106.25") and it was too short. So the one that is coming is K061073 (107.75")




I'm reading this thinking, why doesn't he just move the alternator a tad to make the belt fit? Then I go look at your pics and realize your Alt bracket is different from the one I had. Too bad yours wasn't slotted like mine. Post #54.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...=178154&page=3
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Old 03-16-2020, 12:40 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLSAKS
cool video !
dave in NC
Thanks Dave! Once I get a knock sensor on it and can dial in the timing and what not, the doughnuts should get much better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkilby
I'm reading this thinking, why doesn't he just move the alternator a tad to make the belt fit? Then I go look at your pics and realize your Alt bracket is different from the one I had. Too bad yours wasn't slotted like mine. Post #54.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...=178154&page=3
Oh yeah. Yours is different. I don't think I would be able to swing it in, even if mine was slotted. This alt (CS144) BARELY fits in the bracket I have.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Driftwood
Wait....What.....Why are you pulling the motor?
I was gonna drop it on a pallet and donate it to a retired Coastie up in Nampa but I guess if you don't want it....sheesh! LOL!

When I was in the final throws of getting it running, I was just trying to get it running and didn't do a lot of little things like:
-Wire up the fan on the trans cooler
-Wire up the trans temp gauge
-Conduit all the wires under the hood
-Wire up the offroad lights on my bumper
-Hook up my carbon canister
-find where the oil leak is coming from
-Add a wire from my new fuse blocks to the cab for power seats and seat heaters
etc.
I have about 15 things to do, about $150 worth of work. Some things will take less than 5 minutes, some will take a couple hours, total. I do not plan on opening up the motor at all (unless I find I need to to fix my oil leak). In fact, it will probably not even come off the engine hoist.

Nothing all that big, and nothing that requires the engine to come out in and of itself, but if I pull the engine out, it will make all the little tasks a
lot easier. Engine will probably only be out for a couple nights.
*********************************
K061073 (107.75") worked. With the belt tightened, the power steering pump is at midway in the adjustment slot. I probably could have gone a tiny bit smaller but, meh, good enough for government work.
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