Now that is a thing of beauty, what are you plans for the ACpump? Are you going to keep the stock one and add an oiler to the line?
1970 Jeep Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build
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"Decide what to be and go be it." - The Avett Brothers
1964 J-200 "Alice" Build Thread:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=150066
1979 CJ-7 (s) - Status: Dismantled Hibernation
1981 J-10 - Status: Parts? Daily Driver? Lawn Ornament?
1993 Cherokee Sport - Status: Sold (408,000 miles)
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Thanks.
I plan on changing the AC compressor over to a York 210. Right now I'll use the stock one for the serpentine belt.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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I think im going to have to copy you...on everything that your doing haha! love the intake work especially and how beautiful the engine came out, couldnt get any cleaner looking, looks perfect. But why are you using the stock auto trans "cooler"? ive heard it heats the fluid up more than it helps, maybe something to look into.1968 Gladiator Thriftside
12v p-pump cummins
Nv5600/Nv241dhd, D60 front, D80 rear
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Mudball- I really waffled back and forth about using the transmission heat exchanger. Ironically, I decided to use it for the really heavy heat situations. I'll be running another large trans cooler located between the intercooler and the radiator. Trans fluid stays in pretty good condition for along time at temperatures in 190 degree operating range (The water thermostat temp) . During routine uses the fluid may get heated up to that, then get cooled going through the second cooler. During really heavy uses the fluid temp may leave the trans in the 230 degree range, pre-cooled to 190 degrees, then cooled further going through the second cooler. Regardless, the trans fluid should always enter the second cooler at a more consistant temp.
If I find this theory not to be true in the real world I'll remove the heat exchanger.
lobie- I need to fabricate the exhaust manifold extention to relocate the turbo, so that won't go on until the cab is in place. I've got a nice pretty BD Super B with 4" downpipe waiting to move into its new home.Last edited by Resbum; 08-23-2012, 07:49 AM.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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Should be a nice upgrade. I figured you were going to upgrade. I found a HE351VE for next to nothing and did some research. It seem many have had good luck putting them on 12v's. Going to start fabbing it up to the manifold this wknd.77 Wagoneer | 6.0 | TH400 | NP205 | Sterling 10.5 | Dana 60
07 6.7 Cummins 2500 4wd
lobie4x4.com
CFSJC
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Originally posted by lobieShould be a nice upgrade. I figured you were going to upgrade. I found a HE351VE for next to nothing and did some research. It seem many have had good luck putting them on 12v's. Going to start fabbing it up to the manifold this wknd.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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I originally posted this picture of how I intended to relocate the turbo 8" forward. Since then, I changed my mind for several technical reasons and went a different route.
It's been an extremely long 12 days to do what should have been only a three days process to fabricate the relocator. It's now become the first part of my build I am thoroughly sick of, but I'm on the home stretch.
Here's some pics of the early fabrication.
I've also got quite a bit else done since my last post, so I'll post some updates as soon as I get the loose ends taken care of.Last edited by Resbum; 09-08-2012, 05:17 AM.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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Originally posted by ResbumIt's now become the first part of my build I am thoroughly sick of, but I'm on the home stretch.www.bjsoffroad.com - BJ's Off-Road - Your Full-Size Jeeps Parts Specialist
1987 Grand Wagoneer - 5.3 Vortec, 4L60E, NP242
1979 Cherokee Chief - 6-inch BJ's Off-Road Lift Kit, TPI Chev 350, 700R4 with NP208 and 4.56 gears, 35x12.50R17, Rhino Front End, J-Truck Rear Axle, GoMango Orange.
1979 Cherokee Chief - 5.3 Vortec, 4L60E, Quadratrac, Alpaca Brown Paint, new stock interior
1976 J10 Longbox - 258, T18, Dana 20 - Sniper Fuel Injection
1967 M715 - 454 Chevy, TH400, 1100R16 Michelin XZL Tires, Stock otherwise (sold)
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Originally posted by TPICherokeeDoug, if you are sick of it, just bring it by and I'll keep it for you. I will even keep this thread going for you.Last edited by Resbum; 09-08-2012, 06:10 AM.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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Originally posted by MikelVery nice, but aren't you going to lose a lot of energy in such a long exhaust path before it hits the turbo?
Bare with me for a moment here. This may seem off-topic, but it's not and I do get back around to your comment.
A little info about automotive history in the USA. Ten years before you could buy a turbocharged 2002 Subaru WRX in the US it was available, and very successful, around the rest of the world. Even then, the one we got in the States was underpowered compared to the ones around the rest of the world. Another example is the old Toyota Pickup and 4Runner. Anywhere else on Earth a person could buy one that came with a turbo diesel engine, even in Canada. Those engines never did make it to the US. These are just two examples, but ones I have personal experience with.
Why did these two cases happen? Because the US government makes our DOT and environmental laws so overly complex and expensive that it's not profitable to the automakers to jump through all the hoops to import those engines here.
Now my personal experience. I bought a 1999 Subaru Impreza RS and turbocharged it. When I was finally happy with how it ran it launched so hard it would got through first gear so fast that I'd bang the engine off the rev-limiter before I could shift to second gear. For those that don't know, Subaru uses flat-four engines like the old VW Bugs and Porsches. Because of this design it's almost impossible to have somewhat short, equal-length exhaust runners. In this case the shortest was around 1 1/2 feet and the longest was over 4 feet.
While I was building and refining this engine the one thing I did that had the biggest single affect on engine performance was change exhaust runner diameter. I bought an aftermarket header that had 1/4" bigger runners. That header introduced a very considerable lag in turbo response and I took it back off and sold it to a guy running normally aspirated. He absolutely loved it, but it sucked @$$ on a forced induction engine. Why? Because the larger diameter tubes slowed down the gas velocity. I ened up running the stock Subaru exhaust wrapped.
Here is a must read for anyone who likes to gain knowledge through reading. Corky Bell's book, "Maximum Boost". http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-.../dp/0837601606
It's an incredible resource about turbocharging.
The four things I took from it about spool up while building the Subaru is heat, velocity, compressor blade selection, and flow restriction. Match those and you're in the ballpark.
For my truck:
Heat- The hotter a gas the more volume a given amount will occupy. My extension is going to be ceramic coated and wrapped and I'll have very little heat loss through it. This is also why I had the Cummins manifold ceramic coated.
Velocity- It's the product of heat and volume. Because I won't lose much heat that won't affect velocity. The outlet of the manifold and inlet of the turbo both have two port-matched rectangles. I chose round tubes that have a very similiar cross-sectional area to those rectangles, so I shouldn't lose velocity going through larger volume tubes.
Compressor blade design- Both the BD Super B turbo and Colt cam I chose have quicker spool up over stock. Even if I have some loss through the turbo relocator the turbo and cam will probably make up the difference.
Flow restriction- My original plan had the gasses making two tight turns in opposite directions. That is more disruptive to flow than having the gasses make a longer, more gradual, 360 degree loop.
With all of that long-winded typing behind me I can say I don't really expect the turbo relocator will have much adverse affect on performance. If it does I'll just have to live with it since there's no way I can run a turbo without it.
ResbumOriginally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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