So frustrated....

[godaddy]

Are you sure its not the belts? Check tightness.

Otherwise the only other source of squeal would have to be the sleeve bearings, and requires disassembly & lube.

They are tight. It didn't squeal until the charging issue was fixed. Once I got a charge the alternator started squealing like a pig.

[godaddy]

Had that happen a couple times. On my 85 GW when I reassembled everything I put the alternator plug in upside down. It also fried my ignition module.

PO took a lot of stuff out, ignition module, at least the oem one is gone. Might need to track the wires back to the driver side fender....

Could it be as easy as the key cylinder on the column? Just coincidence that it went out with theses other issues?

[REDONE]

Wait, the ignition module is gone? What makes it fire, an MSD? If so your alternator is producing "feedback" current through the ignition which is enough to power the coil.

I don't have this issue because I switched to a voltmeter I've been told, but the fix is in the MSD instructions. You have to solder in a diode someplace. I have the diode that came with my MSD and the instructions some place. Let me know if you need me to dig them out and stuff em in an envelope for you.

[FSJ Guy]

Wait, the ignition module is gone? What makes it fire, an MSD? If so your alternator is producing "feedback" current through the ignition which is enough to power the coil.

I don't have this issue because I switched to a voltmeter I've been told, but the fix is in the MSD instructions. You have to solder in a diode someplace. I have the diode that came with my MSD and the instructions some place. Let me know if you need me to dig them out and stuff em in an envelope for you.

X2. If you're running a stock system with an MSD box, you'll most likely need the diode.

[godaddy]

Ok still learning so ignore my ignorance and let me explain what I see. I have an HEI distributor that is powered by one red wire coming from the driver side fender wall that has a relay. I need to go trace this back from the starter relay on the passenger side wall.

I worked late last night and have been in meetings all day, so I am just getting started on tracking down this issue.

The starter relay on the pass side fender wall has 5 prongs and then a connection for hot wire from the battery. Where can you get a replacement for one of those and could that be the issue? I am catching hell trying to find a replacement for that part. I found the 4 prong on BJs and can find 3 and 4 prongs but not one that has 5 prongs. I took pictures and went to napa and they provided a NO-GO. Same with local Vatozone. Anyone have a part number for that piece?

[REDONE]

The normal should be 4 prong. A big one from the battery, a big one to the starter, a little blue one from the (key) ignition (Activates the relay to send juice to the starter solenoid) and a little red w/ black tracer one that bypasses the resistor in a stock ignition set up.

With HEI you can forget about hooking into the starter relay for your ignition. All you need to do is power your HEI from the 10 AWG (guage) RED wire with a WHITE tracer coming out of your firewall connection. Splice your HEI into that sucker and you should be good to go. I don't know what your PO stuck in there for a starter relay, I'm not familiar with any that have 5 terminals and while I might be wrong, I'm pretty sure it's not stock.

[dan01ster]

I believe the 4 post is used on the std transmission vehicles, while the 5 post is used for automatics. My J20 (auto) uses the 5 post...there's a small male pushon plug on the bottom side of the solenoid.
I recently purchased one from NAPA under the "Echlin" brand name for $37 cdn.
The model number on my receipt is ST83.
Hope that helps. The p/n may be different in the USA.

[dan01ster]

Here's something else I just found ...

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=467761%3E

[REDONE]

That might make sense. Do you guys with newer trucks have a relay that looks like a metal box with all the terminals coming out of what would be the lid? (Dodge style) or is the plastic can style? I've still never seen a 5 terminal. Even the dodge style has 4, a big post that hooks to both the battery and the starter, a "hot-in-start" terminal that activates the starter solenoid, a 12v in from the key and a neutral safety that must be grounded in order to operate. I went through every relay in the Napa catalog just now and couldn't find a 5 terminal in either style which explains the OPs experience at the parts stores...

[dan01ster]

It's interesting how sometimes the automotive world and aviation world cross paths along the way. Here is part of a post from an aviation forum.
They even talk about AMC.

On Oct 28, 2:30 pm, rich wrote:
My homebuilt's master contactor is going bad. Sometimes when I turn it
on it doesn't make connection. It's got 1700 hours on it, so I'd just
as soon replace it. But the way the builder wired it, he's has
positive power from the battery going through the master switch to the
small terminal on the contactor. (cole-Hersey type) But the master
contactors, such as Spruce sells, are set up to actuate with ground
power going to the small terminal. They also have plastic around their
mounting feet so their case doesn't make ground. A starter contactor
would work perfectly with the way the plane is wired. I just wonder,
are starter contactors made to withstand continous use, like a master
contactor does? And how can one tell the difference in the two, they
look identical? And if not, can the master/continuous duty type be
made to work with postitive power to the small terminal?

The builder wired that contactor to make it safe. If you have
it set up so that battery power feeds though the cabin to the master
switch, you have a fire point since there will be no fuse in that line
from the battery. A fuse can fail with age and let you down. Cessna
uses the hot-terminal idea, and grounds the contactor's other terminal
through the master so that there's at least some resistance in the
line, limiting the current.

A master contactor is a continuous-duty solenoid. A starter
contactor is an intermittent-duty solenoid, and usually has its coil
wired internally to ground so that it wouldn't work as a hot-terminal
master anyway.

Dan
Gotta be careful of the "usually"
The definitive test is coil resistance. Most starter solenoids are
around less than16 ohms. There are quire a few insulated base 4
terminal "starter" solenoids. Echlin/Napa ST41, ST56, ST67, ST71,
ST73, ST75, ST77, ST83, ST94, ST96, for starters. Mostly used in Mopar
and AMC applications.

The St56 is 3 terminal unit designed for "ground enable" apps

Most constant duty solenoids run 16-30 ohms - and there are a fair
number of THEM with gounded bases.(st35, ST87, ST97

The 4 terminal constant duty units a ST36, ST80, ST85,

The large ST35 and ST36 are the only continuous duty units rated at
14-16 ohms. All the smaller ones are 16-25 ohms.

The ST80 and ST85 are the common ones - the 85 differeing from the 80
only in having copper contacts (much to be preferred)

[godaddy]

Give me an hour or so....

I am going to take pictures in a short while. Going for a ride in my girl. I do have an automatic tranny.

When I key the ignition off it shuts all electrical stuff off. Also I tried shutting the waggy down by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and it kept running. I had to disconnect the power supply to the HEI at the relay on the driver side.

Pictures to follow....

[dan01ster]

Shoot Redone...I just dropped off the "J" at the shop a couple of hours ago to have them replace my rear main seal and some other stuff....so I can't run out and have a good look at it.
Looking at my receipt and I see it was 2 yrs ago that I bought the current unit...so memory is a bit vague.
I'm gonna have to see if I can find a pic somewhere before I spout off here ...but it does have 5 posts. Lemme see what I can find.

[dan01ster]

LOL...so here is another post from a mopar site courtesy of our pals Google.

"Yes , Echlin ST-83 from NAPA . This is a Jeep relay that looks like a Ford,except that it has an extra terminal for the neutral safety switch. I put a strap across the starter terminals, then just ran one wire from the ST-83 to the starter. This way the starter wire is only hot when cranking, and you only have one wire going to the starter. I used a rubberized clamp on one of the bell housing bolts to neatly hold the starter wire. Works great."

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=5030236&an=0&page=1533

So it looks like my auto truck has the 5th terminal for the neutral saftey switch...and I'm guessing the standard Ford is a 4 post.

Still looking for a pic though.

[dan01ster]

OK...here it is...a good post from JEEPForum.com and there is a photo of the unit from top side. the small 5th post would be on the bottom side (below the silver top cap in pic).

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/correct-starter-solenoid-1317098/

So...yup, that's what they're talking about... the same one I have... Echlin ST-83 AND I bought it at my local NAPA store.

[REDONE]

I found it !!!!!





Here's a direct link incase the img code is dead.

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/StarterRelay.jpg