Disc Brakes, Hydroboost and Proportioning Valves

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  • shaky
    232 I6
    • Aug 16, 2015
    • 31

    Disc Brakes, Hydroboost and Proportioning Valves

    My 1971 J-4600 currently has drums front and rear on 5-lug Dana 45 and Dana 60 axles. I'm considering removing the entire brake system and replacing everything with disc brakes all around, stainless lines and a hydroboost conversion to get rid of my vacuum booster. I'm planning to go with BJs for the front kit and TSM for the rears.

    I'm hoping for some opinions on proportioning valves. If I'm reading correctly, the junction under the driver's feet my FSM calls the "front tube tee" will need to be replaced with a prop valve that will work with the discs. Would it be better to go with a later model prop valve that will handle this function automatically? (I'm planning to install new, not a part from the boneyard.)

    Or would it be easier or more effective to install an adjustable proportioning valve instead? And do I understand correctly that if I use one of those adjustable valves like the ones BJs sells, the front and rear lines would then be completely separate, with the primary outlet from the master cylinder routed to the front and the secondary to the rear?

    I haven't done a brake project this involved before, so I'm just trying to get it all straight in my head before I start ordering parts and taking things apart.
  • crazydog
    350 Buick
    • Nov 19, 2005
    • 865

    #2
    On my Cherokee, I used the Cadillac Eldorado Hydroboost and master cylinder. I used the stainless steel brake lines and prop valve from BJ's. The front brakes are the larger piston GM calipers with EBC pads and stock size rotors. The rear has the kit from some online vendor that I can not remember.

    Everything works very well. I have no complaints.
    1979 Cherokee - Built 401, NV4500, Dana 300, 6" BJ's Lift w/ Bilstein 5125 Shocks, Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 35X12.5R15, Front Brake Upgrade w/ GM 2500 Calipers & EBC Pads, Rear Disc Brake Conversion, Z&M Jeeps Dash Insert w/ VDO Series 1 Gauges, Tad Rack, Ramsey Hidden Winch w/ REP8000, Hydroboost, CS140

    1967 J3500 - Making plans

    Comment

    • shaky
      232 I6
      • Aug 16, 2015
      • 31

      #3
      Originally posted by crazydog
      I used the stainless steel brake lines and prop valve from BJ's.
      Did you use this prop valve...



      or this one?



      They seem to function differently and require different routing of the lines, and I'm not sure which is the better way to go.

      Comment

      • SJTD
        304 AMC
        • Apr 26, 2012
        • 1953

        #4
        I think both of those have separate front rear systems.

        I would go with the adjustable unless the other is designed for the combination of caliper piston diameters and rotor sizes you're going to use.
        Sic friatur crustulum

        '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

        Comment

        • firedog
          232 I6
          • Nov 03, 2014
          • 129

          #5
          hydroboost from BJ's is awesome. on stock brakes on my '90 GW, put my face into the dash just about first stop i tried after the install.

          they werk reeeeeel guuud.
          1990 Grand Waggy / Howell TBI AMC 360 / DUI Performance distributor / BJ's 6" lift ' / 35" Kevlar MTR's / 4.56 gearing / E2 lockers front and rear / Sway bar disconnects / Hydroboost brake system / HD UJoint rag-joint eliminating steering shaft / and various other real nice goodies

          Comment

          • itselliot
            350 Buick
            • Aug 28, 2010
            • 1042

            #6
            rear disc



            These guys made a set of caliper brackets for my D60....call them as they do not list the brackets on the web. The brackets will allow use of Chevy 2500 calipers and rotors.
            If the PM's are full,...try e mail!
            [email protected]
            616 four 03 44 0 five
            '78 J-20 401 Q/T not quite stock anymore....Frame off Resto Mod..Super Cab nearing completion. SOMEDAY
            "90 GW 360/727/229/3:31s 2" lift (SOLD in 2015)
            '78 CJ7 Built from Scratch over a 7 year span.

            Comment

            • crazydog
              350 Buick
              • Nov 19, 2005
              • 865

              #7
              Originally posted by shaky
              Did you use this prop valve...



              or this one?



              They seem to function differently and require different routing of the lines, and I'm not sure which is the better way to go.
              I used the non- adjustable one. The stainless brake lines fit perfectly.
              1979 Cherokee - Built 401, NV4500, Dana 300, 6" BJ's Lift w/ Bilstein 5125 Shocks, Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 35X12.5R15, Front Brake Upgrade w/ GM 2500 Calipers & EBC Pads, Rear Disc Brake Conversion, Z&M Jeeps Dash Insert w/ VDO Series 1 Gauges, Tad Rack, Ramsey Hidden Winch w/ REP8000, Hydroboost, CS140

              1967 J3500 - Making plans

              Comment

              • nottayota
                232 I6
                • Sep 10, 2012
                • 43

                #8
                brake hydroboost

                I'm so glad I found this thread. I have a 68 Wagoneer that I am upgrading my braking system on as well. I have to replace the Booster and Master cylinder as well. I put in front and rear dana 44 axles off a 79 Scout Traveller truck and I want to install a hydroboost as well as new brake lines. Thanks for the advice!
                '68 Kaiser Wagoneer, Buick 350 .. no school like old school.

                Comment

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