Exhaust Studs

[ThisGuyUKnow]

Can someone point me in the right direction to purchase exhaust studs for a 360? I am getting rid of the hedman headers that came with my jeep and going to original manifolds. The hedmans used bolts so the engine has no stud installed. I have heard it is not a good idea to use bolts over studs, though i dont know what the reasoning is.

If these can be purchased at the parts stores, what is the PN or threading I need? TIA

[Ristow]

you'll have a whole lotta fun removing those manifold in the engine bay with studs. you may not be able to remove them at all. bolts are what is used,and what you should use.

[ThisGuyUKnow]

you'll have a whole lotta fun removing those manifold in the engine bay with studs. you may not be able to remove them at all. bolts are what is used,and what you should use.

there are no studs installed now.. So with the factory manifolds use bolts? Can I use just regular grade 8 bolts from the hardware store or do i need to find a source for flanged bolts? The bolts that came with the hedmans are too short to bolt on the factory header.

[serehill]

yeepers

That is correct & that is what they came with bolts. Mike is right you will not be able to install or remove them.

[joe]

SS bolts with a smear of anti-seize will work just fine.

[grandjeeper]

Any downside to stainless?

SS bolts with a smear of anti-seize will work just fine.

Stainless wouldn't be a grade 8 equivalent, would it? More like a grade 5 or so.

Does this even matter at 15-25 ft-lb for the exhaust manifolds?

[joe]

You're just hanging manifolds not scaffolding. SS will be fine.

[jeepfan93]

X2 I've always used SS. Never a problem.

[Billygoat]

I am confused, i have studs on my 401 that I just installed this weekend.
Trying to figure out why I should not have been able to install the manifolds?

Yes I had to unbolt the bracket by the T-case to lower the Y pipe.
The studs were way easier, slide the gasket on, slide the manifold on.
No trying to line up holes.

[ThisGuyUKnow]

I am confused, i have studs on my 401 that I just installed this weekend.
Trying to figure out why I should not have been able to install the manifolds?

Yes I had to unbolt the bracket by the T-case to lower the Y pipe.
The studs were way easier, slide the gasket on, slide the manifold on.
No trying to line up holes.

Billy did you buy new studs? If so source and PN?

[tgreese]

I am confused, i have studs on my 401 that I just installed this weekend.
Trying to figure out why I should not have been able to install the manifolds?

Yes I had to unbolt the bracket by the T-case to lower the Y pipe.
The studs were way easier, slide the gasket on, slide the manifold on.
No trying to line up holes.

You thinking of the studs for the pipe end or for the cylinder head end? At the cylinder head, they may make the manifolds impossible to remove.

On a 258, a couple of studs in the head are really helpful, for alignment. They also keeps the gasket in place during manifold installation.

[Billygoat]

You thinking of the studs for the pipe end or for the cylinder head end? At the cylinder head, they may make the manifolds impossible to remove.

Yes in the heads, and I must have a magic truck, because they went on, so I figure they will come back off. - It was tight by the steering shaft, used a few cus words, it is best to bring the manifolds up from underneath.

(I also have no problems with #8 spark plug and pull the 360 and put in the 401 with the fiberglass heater core box in place and never broke it - so I must just be really good {no BS on any of it)

Billy did you buy new studs? If so source and PN?

I used 3/8" x 2-1/2" cup point set screws - Fastenal 25549
The socket head makes for easy install - used serated flange nuts.
That is on a 74 401 - all the holes were the same.
On my 83 (which has factory bolts) the center 2 are 3/8"-UNC and the end 4 are 5/16"-UNC

[Ristow]

there you go,it's confirmed it can be done.


but like i said....

I had to unbolt the bracket by the T-case to lower the Y pipe. It was tight by the steering shaft, used a few cus words, it is best to bring the manifolds up from underneath.

sounds fun.


i know some struggle with the rear bolts. i don't have that much trouble. those studs will make a simple gasket change a bigger job. but you rarely need to do it twice with manifolds.

[serehill]

intertesting

I can't see removing 50% of the exhaust system to replace a gasket as easier than aligning a bolt hole. I leave the front & rear bolt in. There is also a little more clearance from the firewall on a Cherokee/J series than a waggy. Good luck. Or at least that's my experience.

[ThisGuyUKnow]

I can't see removing 50% of the exhaust system to replace a gasket as easier than aligning a bolt hole. I leave the front & rear bolt in. There is also a little more clearance from the firewall on a Cherokee/J series than a waggy. Good luck. Or at least that's my experience.

I guess I really need to change my Sig. I sold the 79 Cherokee and picked up a 360 powered CJ. I have yet to see it run though. Got to get these manifolds installed.

Looks like the majority says go with bolts so I will pick up some grade 8 bolts from the hardware store.