Should I drive it this winter?

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  • ZackN920
    350 Buick
    • Nov 18, 2015
    • 945

    Should I drive it this winter?

    Does anybody else drive their FSJ in the winter? Opinions/thoughts?

    Here's my deal. I never got the Cherokee finished like planned, so that leaves me with 1 vehicle for use this winter(the burban). Usually I have 2. I'm trying to decide if I should say "fudge it" and drive the Crapwagon if needed, this winter. What are your thoughts.


    A lot of you have already seen my progress on it. What will most commonly come in contact with slush has all been previously addressed and had rust preventive measures already taken. I'm not to, to worried about the floors (after all the work I did) and the wheel wells. They were well prepped after repairs made. Most of you know that I also cleaned up, replaced/added metal and repainted from the woodgrain trim down. When I did that there was a couple of layers of undercoating put on(paintable stuff) and then painted over in the end. I *think* that it should be well prepped. I don't think I should have to worry but the feeling is there and I just want to know what others think. If I do keep it out, it will be getting washed whenever temp goes above 32-34* for a day. Probably wash it by hand (with spray wand) because the auto washes do a crap job of under body spraying/cleaning.


    I still haven't welded the frame but it seems to be holding out fine. Hasn't rusted anymore than it was when you all last saw it. After driving it around in the weather that we got in the last few weeks, I've noticed that none of the crap has collected in the "problem area's". (skid plate area+behind the rear wheels by the spring mount)


    Should I worry? Should I just take it off the road and be down to 1 vehicle (for winter duty)? Do ya think it wouldn't rust or rust much more over the coarse of winter with what I have done? What have been your experiences (especially if you've done rust preventative treatments)? I'm starting to think that I'm just too worried about this crap. It can't possibly get as bad as it was when I first got the ol crapwagon.

    Hell, these things were meant to be drivin' in crappy weather (and apparently meant to rust away too)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

    AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
    Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
    ...in pieces for more rust repair...
  • Mass
    232 I6
    • Sep 26, 2017
    • 95

    #2
    I know I'm not qualified to talk about snow since I live in Texas but I know the term "winter beater".. isn't the point to sacrifice a lesser car to the rust gods? .. wagoneer>suburban

    Again since I'm in Texas I feel like I'm talking folk lore but don't you guys start Flintstoning a new car after a few years?
    89' GW 6BT Cummins

    Comment

    • FSJunkie
      The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
      • Jan 09, 2011
      • 4040

      #3
      HA! You're in Illinois. That is where cars go to die.

      Avoid driving it. That's the best thing. Only drive on clear days when the roads are dry. There will be salt on the roads but it's not so bad if the salt is dry because it sticks to the road. It's when the road is wet and the salt becomes salt water that your car is in danger. The salt water will get sprayed up into everywhere in your car by the tires. It gets into the cracks and crevices and never dries out because it's too cold. It just rots away everything.

      Keep it dry, keep it clean, keep the paint touched up, and keep it waxed. Be diligent! Wipe the car down with a damp cloth once a week. Wash it by hand with soap and water if it gets really salty or muddy. Get that crap off it ASAP! Salt causes rot, mud holds salt, water causes rot, and all three together are murder. Remember to wash off the undercarriage if it gets salty. Do it by hand to get all the areas. Watch the wheel wells especially. Watch for the white salt residue and wash it off ASAP wherever you see it. Wax the paint and chrome once a month. Unwaxed paint will get eaten by salt. Unwaxed chrome will get pitted by salt.

      I kept my Jeep rust free while I lived in Kansas for four years by doing all that. I was out in my driveway washing it in 30 degree weather with snow on the ground. I kept the water from freezing by using hot water and it helped keep my hands from freezing too.
      '72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

      I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.

      Comment

      • ZackN920
        350 Buick
        • Nov 18, 2015
        • 945

        #4
        Funny how you mentioned "lesser car". I think my insurance thinks the Wagoneer is worth LESS than my Suburban. Its cheaper than the Burban and they have the same exact coverage. Currently the Wagon body is solid now, while the burban is … holy in the rear quarters and rusty on the doors. Probably fix that next summer...

        Actually, this Wagoneer is the only vehicle I have personally seen with the floors rotted out. Damn thing had to have lived in a swamp before I got it... The terrible zeibart undercoating also did the wagon in. That's why my frame is as bad as it is.


        Oddly enough, my Suburban was never undercoated in its life. The floors are perfect and its going into its 25th winter... I cant believe its 25 years old... (build date 12/93)
        The frame don't look good, but that's just rust colored. No chunky scale, and still thick as can be. I just changed all the brake and fuel lines underneath the burban this fall so I know It quite well underneath.

        The Dakota has always been solid underneath, same situation as the Burban-never undercoated other than oil bath. Haven't driven that through a winter since 2012.

        The Cherokee was undercoated at the factory. Its still solid underneath as well, but it had the rockers replaced before my ownership.


        My dad's current vehicle an 02 Grand Cherokee is solid under it too and no undercoating, same with his last vehicle. Body is taking its toll, rockers are darn near gone under the plastic, fenders are rotted out, dogleg on the passenger side is rusting out...

        Now im just rambling on too much. I think im just too worried about it. I'd really only need to be concerned if I had just left it alone instead of repairing the metal like i did.



        EDIT- I took to log to post this, Thanks for the post FSJunkie!
        Last edited by ZackN920; 11-30-2018, 11:39 PM.
        1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

        AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
        Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
        ...in pieces for more rust repair...

        Comment

        • FSJunkie
          The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
          • Jan 09, 2011
          • 4040

          #5
          At least your Jeep has improved later rust preventative coatings. My Jeep has none of that. They didn't even prime the metal on mine before painting it. The metal may be galvanized but there is no primer; just one heavy coat of color on top of steel. I'm not joking. My Jeep has it's original factory applied paint still. They didn't even paint the upper half of the doors on the inside; they were just bare metal. Areas around the tailgate window were so thin they might as have not been painted at all.


          Worst factory paint job I've ever seen. Jeep painters were really cutting corners in 1972. Not even primer!!! Want to know why early FSJ's are so hard to find? That explains why. I think the early to mid 1970's ones were the worst because the factory was struggling to meet demand and were cranking them off the production line as fast as they could. Plus it was the old Kaiser production line and AMC had not integrated their excellent rust prevention measures pioneered on AMC passenger cars. AMC cars had some of the best rust proofing in the industry. It took a decade for that to trickle down to the Jeeps.
          '72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

          I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.

          Comment

          • joe
            • Apr 28, 2000
            • 22392

            #6
            I'm originally from Detroit and the only way to beat the rust monster is buy/drive a winter beater.
            joe
            "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

            Comment

            • babywag
              out of order
              • Jun 08, 2005
              • 10287

              #7
              Originally posted by FSJunkie
              HA! You're in Illinois. That is where cars go to die.

              Avoid driving it. That's the best thing. Only drive on clear days when the roads are dry. There will be salt on the roads but it's not so bad if the salt is dry because it sticks to the road. It's when the road is wet and the salt becomes salt water that your car is in danger. The salt water will get sprayed up into everywhere in your car by the tires. It gets into the cracks and crevices and never dries out because it's too cold. It just rots away everything.
              Growing up in MN I'd say if you care anything about it NO!
              I did the winter beater thing, cheap POS didn't care if it rotted from use in winter.
              One of my 1st Jeeps was a $400 rusted out '78 WT with more rust than steel.
              Could lift body off frame by hand lol!
              Tony
              88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

              Comment

              • Mikel
                • Aug 09, 2000
                • 6330

                #8
                If you care about that vehicle, don't. It's a battle you can't win. You can only delay the inevitable.
                1969 M715 6x6
                1963 J300 Swivel frame

                Comment

                • Driftwood
                  350 Buick
                  • Jun 12, 2000
                  • 959

                  #9
                  I'm driving mine today!

                  1979 Wagoneer

                  Comment

                  • ZackN920
                    350 Buick
                    • Nov 18, 2015
                    • 945

                    #10
                    Thanks for all the opinions/thoughts and even explanations (FSjunkie). Can't believe that they skipped primer in those years...

                    Well, to tell ya the truth, I'm the reason this thing's not in the junkyard. This was a rusted out POS when I got it. I've put a good amount of metal back into it. Along with all the mechanical work that I've done to make it a damn good everyday driver. That being said, its still craptacular. Its got rust under the woodgrain all over (tail gate, every door, front fenders) and the frame is still...so-so. The paint is all bad as well (other than the paint work I did late last year/early this. woodgrain on down)To tell ya the truth, time comes for me to rip the woodgrain off, it wouldn't bother me at all to do a bit more metal work.
                    This isnt no high doller jeep either. Some of you make it sound as if I really have something here. lol Other than being a rare sight (none in my area that I ever see) its not special.

                    Reminds me of a conversation I had with my dad recently-He asked if I could ever see myself restoring it. I said NO. It's a peice of GW that would take too much to do right, and then I would be afraid to drive it. Sure as heck couldnt go to walmart with it, ya almost always get a new dent when you go there!

                    Against best wishes, I think i'll leave it on the road as back up. Plus we havent had any good days. It got cold and its not warming back up.
                    Its had a lot of rust prevenative measures takin recently so it shouldnt be too bad off. I'll keep it clean like I usually do with my vehicles. Unlike other people around here, I dont like all that grime and junk to sit stuck to the vehicle. If I get my welder though... it'll come off the road faster.


                    Hey, anyone else driving an FSJ through the winter. How about some more of you mid west guy's/gals! Havent heard from yall yet!
                    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

                    AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
                    Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
                    ...in pieces for more rust repair...

                    Comment

                    • dbabicky
                      258 I6
                      • Dec 31, 2011
                      • 339

                      #11
                      I say drive it !! I'm not afraid to drive mine in the winter. That's what I bought it for........TO DRIVE IT !!! If you want a garage queen buy a hot rod. A really cool go fast muscle car that isn't worth a on winter roads to begin with, but is fun as heck to drive in the summer.
                      1975 J-10,360,TH400,QT,
                      1998 Wrangler,TJ,4.0L,5spd
                      2000 Chevy K3500,454 Auto
                      2009 GMC Canyon,3.7,Auto, 2.5" lift/leveling kit
                      all with a looney DAV behind the wheel.
                      "Old age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill"

                      Comment

                      • ZackN920
                        350 Buick
                        • Nov 18, 2015
                        • 945

                        #12
                        Thanks for the words dbabicky! Great to see another trooper that's using one of these Jeeps for it's original intended purpose!


                        Hmm, re-reading the thread, it looks like I was really rambling on! Overthinking things...

                        Yea, I'm leaving it out as back-up. Got it washed this weekend and the lower half all waxed now. It's looking spiffy sitting in the back of the driveway. Shined my tires while at it. The thing looks awesome with the white letter tires all bright again. Filled up with gas after the wash and got to say, i'm not to thrilled with the winter blend mpg I'm getting. Then again, maybe I should take it out of 4X4 when I don't need it...
                        1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

                        AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
                        Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
                        ...in pieces for more rust repair...

                        Comment

                        • dbabicky
                          258 I6
                          • Dec 31, 2011
                          • 339

                          #13
                          I run Premium non-ethanol fuel in everything I own. I do that year round. I don't know if some places give you that option or not.
                          1975 J-10,360,TH400,QT,
                          1998 Wrangler,TJ,4.0L,5spd
                          2000 Chevy K3500,454 Auto
                          2009 GMC Canyon,3.7,Auto, 2.5" lift/leveling kit
                          all with a looney DAV behind the wheel.
                          "Old age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill"

                          Comment

                          • rang-a-stang
                            Administrator
                            • Oct 31, 2016
                            • 5512

                            #14
                            I'd drive the 'Burb and keep the G-Wag road worthy, just in case. You have alot of work in the NotCrapwagon and it would suck to get some salty sludge up in a place you can't hose out. Then work on getting the Cherokee ready to go. When it is, slide the G-Wag out of just in case status, put the burb in Just in case status and drive the Cherokee...

                            The closest I have to "experience" was living in Spokane for 6 years but that is not long enough to really establish a process for avoiding rust. We used to spend about an 2 hours with a hose at the end of the spring hosing out truck out (64 Chevy) and it was pretty rust free when we sold it (again, only 6 winters though, and i am not sure they salted in Spokane like they do in Illonois).
                            Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                            (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                            (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                            79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                            (Cherokee Build Thread)
                            11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                            09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                            00 Baby Cherokee

                            Comment

                            • ZackN920
                              350 Buick
                              • Nov 18, 2015
                              • 945

                              #15
                              Originally posted by dbabicky
                              I run Premium non-ethanol fuel in everything I own. I do that year round. I don't know if some places give you that option or not.
                              I honenstly dont re-call any in town that offer non-ethanol. and I won't pay the $.80 per gallon premium for that stuff. To me, Its not worth it for a standard engine.



                              Originally posted by rang-a-stang
                              I'd drive the 'Burb and keep the G-Wag road worthy, just in case. You have alot of work in the NotCrapwagon and it would suck to get some salty sludge up in a place you can't hose out. Then work on getting the Cherokee ready to go. When it is, slide the G-Wag out of just in case status, put the burb in Just in case status and drive the Cherokee...

                              The closest I have to "experience" was living in Spokane for 6 years but that is not long enough to really establish a process for avoiding rust. We used to spend about an 2 hours with a hose at the end of the spring hosing out truck out (64 Chevy) and it was pretty rust free when we sold it (again, only 6 winters though, and i am not sure they salted in Spokane like they do in Illonois).
                              HA! the NOTcrapwagon! I like that
                              Naw, if I get the Cherokee done it will go into "just in case" status and the burb will stay the main winter driver for this season. I'm doing body work on the Cherokee right now, and would like to limit the salt contact to the fresh paint/clearcoat. Especially since I can't wax it for awhile afterword's.

                              Wow, 2 hours straight just hosing. So far I've strictly washed the wheel wells (and corresponding splash zones)out twice now. Little cold, but not too bad. Washed the body once and did that wax job. Still lookin good but I've only driven sparingly. In our experience, rust is a slow going problem for our vehicles. Always tried to keep them clean in the winter and I've never had any terrible rust through yet. For the most part bubbling/pealing paint with a rusty surface underneath on average. There is a point I get sick of it and just start doing body work. So, I guess I've never given them the chance to rust to hell. Truck has gotten it, the Wagon has gotten it and my Cherokee is still getting it(long story with that). Next will be my Suburban and my dad's WJ. Both them will be next summer. At the rate I'm going, the Cherokee will hopefully be done with paintwork by the new year.


                              So far, this winter has been garbage for me. We got 2 or 3 snows in November. Haven't seen any since and its all melted/ been washed away by now. Good for me being able to drive the Wagon whenever I want but bad for me at the same time. P's me off because I make some money from the stuff. Grounds keeper in the summer, (small time) snow removal in the winter. Should open a general repair shop but I don't know enough about business for that
                              1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

                              AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
                              Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
                              ...in pieces for more rust repair...

                              Comment

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