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  #81  
Old 06-09-2016, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikkormat
Off topic, what's my best option for 9.25-9.5:1 compression on a .20 over 91 360?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikkormat
Are you sure it is 9.25:1? If it is, the answer would be no in my opinion unless, you are rebuilding it anyway. Then, the cost of 343 pistons are the same so it is a free bump in compression

Is a point of compressison even worth the effort? I'm looking for 300 useable rear wheel HP and gobs of tourqe in a Jeep with 3.08 gears and 31's on 87 octane.
If you are going to run 87 octane, the lower the compression the better.

I've heard that the late model heads can be milled to reduce the chamber size. Is that true?


Any cylinder head can be milled to reduce the compustion chamber size but I wouldn't recommend doing it for that reason. The only reason I get them milled is to get a fresh gasket surface and usually it is only .005" to .010". If you go much more than that you might run in to issues with the intake manifold fitting correctly. The intake may actually have to be machined as well to fit. At that point all you are doing is adding machining cost for little gain in compression
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  #82  
Old 06-09-2016, 06:25 PM
Nikkormat Nikkormat is offline
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It's worth mentioning that for me 87 is mid grade. Not regular. High altitude and what not.

Do you expect this motor at 9.5:1 to use premium?
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  #83  
Old 06-10-2016, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikkormat
It's worth mentioning that for me 87 is mid grade. Not regular. High altitude and what not.

Do you expect this motor at 9.5:1 to use premium?

Quote:
Originally Posted by https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/octane.shtml

What is octane rating?

Gas pump showing octane options
Octane rating is the measure of a fuel's ability to resist "knocking" or "pinging" during combustion, caused by the air/fuel mixture detonating prematurely in the engine.

In the U.S., unleaded gasoline typically has octane ratings of 87 (regular), 88–90 (midgrade), and 91–94 (premium). Gasoline with an octane rating of 85 is available in some high-elevation areas of the U.S. (more about that below).

The octane rating is prominently displayed in large black numbers on a yellow background on gasoline pumps.

https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/octane.shtml

( Just some general information about octanes for everyone to read. )

Higher elevation has less dense air, so less pressure when it fires. Less of a need for higher octane then.
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Last edited by Gulrok : 06-10-2016 at 12:39 AM.
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  #84  
Old 07-19-2016, 09:43 AM
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Very nice write up. I am curious how it runs! I like the idea of building a 360.
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  #85  
Old 07-19-2016, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikkormat
It's worth mentioning that for me 87 is mid grade. Not regular. High altitude and what not.

Do you expect this motor at 9.5:1 to use premium?

I run premium in all of my AMC engines even the ones with 8.5:1 compression ratio. There seems to be so much variation in fuel these days I would say it depends on where you live in the country and where you buy it. Not a fuel expert at all but the idea of this build is to stay below 10.0:1 so that you can still buy pump gas and then maybe play with the timing to see how low of octain you could get away with.
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  #86  
Old 09-19-2016, 06:01 AM
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Finally back on this project again...
When I started installing the push rods and rocker arms in I noticed that it was really hard to turn over. Naturally I thought that I had a valve train issue but no.... It turns out that the casting on the new water pump was hitting the vibration damper. I just ground some of the casting off of the water pump at the two lower bolts and problem solved. The irritation is, I shouldn't have to check for stuff like this..

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  #87  
Old 09-19-2016, 08:18 AM
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x1000
Parts should just fit! I had a discussion via email about this, they need to fix this IMHO.
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=169721
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  #88  
Old 09-19-2016, 09:01 AM
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Yea, I just might start sending original stock old ones to this guy to rebuild. At least they would bolt up with no issues and I don't have to deal with different hub heights. I haven't tried him yet but I know of a couple guys who have.
Dan Bailey
4706 Detroit St
Dearborn Hts, MI 48125
313-530-2893
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  #89  
Old 09-19-2016, 09:15 AM
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GMB makes a nice one that is aluminum, the housing appears to be a quality piece. It fits without modification, and the hose sizes are actually correct.
Their cast iron offering is horrible quality though.
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  #90  
Old 09-19-2016, 10:01 AM
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I normally use the aluminum water pumps. GMB lists 2 sifferent ones through Summit but, they are identical. The hub height is 3 3/4 which is 1/4" longer than the older cast iron ones used on the older AMC cars with the 3 bolt vibration damper so, you have to find just the right water pump pulley to make it work. In this case the cast iron pump was supplied to me..
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  #91  
Old 10-03-2016, 02:52 PM
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It runs! Coolant changed 3 times, oil changed once, now I just need to run another gallon of gas through it.


Here is the contamination from the first oil change. This is pretty good, it includes all of the particles that were in the oil filter as well.

Last edited by SC/397 : 10-04-2016 at 11:11 AM.
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  #92  
Old 10-13-2016, 06:17 AM
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Changed the water out for antifreeze, re-torqued all the head bolts and now it is ready to go down the road. She is done!
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  #93  
Old 10-28-2016, 09:41 PM
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Higher compression pistons

My machine shop ordered Chevy 350 pistons at .010 over, machined the valve reliefs and also changed the connecting rod configuration to match the pistons. Might have done this cheaper if I'd read these threads! Compression ratio was calculated to be 10.5 to one, that was Ok, since Minden is at 4200 feet. Now the car is moving to Phoenix (1,086ft).
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  #94  
Old 01-22-2017, 12:03 AM
Nikkormat Nikkormat is offline
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So how much power do you think it has?
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  #95  
Old 01-23-2017, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikkormat
So how much power do you think it has?
If the question is for the 343 piston build... my guestimate based on a similar build is around 300 HP and 370 #/Ft of torque. For what it is worth, I have a request to build another one so this time I will order the 343 kit to see what we get.
The first engine in the dyno thread is my reference for the horsepower rating.
http://rebsamcandjeep.proboards.com/...&scrollTo=1573
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  #96  
Old 01-23-2017, 04:40 PM
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What are your thought on the 343/360 passing smog? That is an issue we here in Calif have to address. Once I get my J10 running I am looking to do the howell EFI (smog legal of course) but will probably be ready for a rebuilt engine as well.

Thanks and I enjoy reading about all your engine rebuilds. I think when I'm ready, I am going to send you a bunch of $$$ and have you put one together for me.
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  #97  
Old 01-24-2017, 08:33 AM
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According to the discussions here, it should be OK.
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180781
I am not the one to ask but others on this forum seem to have a handle on it.
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  #98  
Old 01-25-2017, 11:53 AM
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Thanks!
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  #99  
Old 06-14-2017, 07:25 PM
Tte531 Tte531 is offline
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Hey i wanted to check in with you and see how your build was running? She still humming along? anything you think you might do differently?

This is exactly what im going to do here with mine, in fact ill be doing it over the next couple weeks. Managed to get some good time off.
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  #100  
Old 06-15-2017, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tte531
Hey i wanted to check in with you and see how your build was running? She still humming along? anything you think you might do differently?

This is exactly what im going to do here with mine, in fact ill be doing it over the next couple weeks. Managed to get some good time off.

The engine was built for a 74 Javelin/AMX and he hasn't put in yet.
And no, I wouldn't change anything. I learned some things about crappy parts now so I know what to look for next time. If I ever get caught up I will buy a complete 343 kit for the 360 and record all of the trials and tribuations in putting that together.
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