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  #1  
Old 07-03-2012, 08:29 PM
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Southern Gorilla Southern Gorilla is offline
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Question A/C options

Silly me decided to buy a truck with no A/C. I definitely plan to add it at some point. But I'm undecided exactly how to go about it.

I've looked at the aftermarket systems. But I'm not convinced they are up to the task of cooling the cavernous interior of an FSJ. I know many of the newer, larger SUVs have front and rear A/C. But I have no idea how that works or if it would be feasible to swap a junkyard system into a Cherokee. Seems those new systems would have all sorts of electronics to keep them under control.

Does anybody run one of the aftermarket A/C systems?

Would a reproduction stock system do the job?

Would a junkyard retrofit be any more complicated to install than an aftermarket system?

What about a hybrid system? Use the aftermarket vents and controls with a junkyard compressor, evaporator, etc.

Keep in mind I live in Texas. It gets warm here. And I hate sweating to death waiting for the A/C to cool the cabin.

On the plus side, starting with no A/C means I can build the right system from the start without having to tear out the old one first.
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It's not an SUV. It's an SEV: Surface Exploration Vehicle.

'76 Cherokee NT
360/T-18

Trailers belong behind trucks, not under them.

Why? Because nobody in the history of 'wheeling has ever said, "good thing I put those smaller tires on my rig."
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  #2  
Old 07-03-2012, 09:04 PM
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mrtazwrench mrtazwrench is offline
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Not saying it's the best, but I put together a system with used parts for my J-truck with used parts, I converted to R134, does well in my J-truck cab, not sure if it would be lacking in a wagon.
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Chad
Quote from Bubbles, on Trailer Park Boys...
"Let's see that red blue green **** sucker build one of these without duct taping it together!"
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3&l=76427b95fd
88 wag
87 J20
82 J20
Parts vehicles: 4 Wags, 4 J20's, 2 J10's, 2 J4K's
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  #3  
Old 07-03-2012, 09:12 PM
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Southern Gorilla Southern Gorilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtazwrench
Not saying it's the best, but I put together a system with used parts for my J-truck with used parts, I converted to R134, does well in my J-truck cab, not sure if it would be lacking in a wagon.
Was it just a matter of getting the big pieces from the junkyard and then having lines made to fit? What did you do for controls? I'm leaning towards the junkyard option just because it seems more my budget.

I believe I may solve the power issue by shopping in the right type of junkyard. Any A/C system that can cool the cab and bunk of a semi should be able to cool a Cherokee. That's assuming such a system could be made to fit.
__________________
It's not an SUV. It's an SEV: Surface Exploration Vehicle.

'76 Cherokee NT
360/T-18

Trailers belong behind trucks, not under them.

Why? Because nobody in the history of 'wheeling has ever said, "good thing I put those smaller tires on my rig."
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  #4  
Old 07-03-2012, 09:13 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
 
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If I was to do a system again, I'd do the following;

1 - Get a Sanden compressor bracket from a late model GW.
2 - Buy a NEW Sanden compressor/clutch.
3 - Get the biggest aftermarket unit that would fit behind the dash, and lose the heater box under the hood & ac unit from under/behind the dash.

My '88 needed just about everything. I replaced every part with the exception of the evaporator/under dash housing.
I bought all new parts, had new hoses made, new compressor, new condenser, new drier, new expansion valve.
For the money I wound up spending I could have had a brand new more efficient aftermarket system for a little more.

My system works great, and it is very comfortable even in triple digits.
However it cannot be compared to the newer more efficient systems in today's cars.
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected


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  #5  
Old 07-03-2012, 09:17 PM
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Southern Gorilla Southern Gorilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
My system works great, and it is very comfortable even in triple digits.
However it cannot be compared to the newer more efficient systems in today's cars.
If you got everything new, what is coming up short? Do the evaporator and housing make that big a difference?
__________________
It's not an SUV. It's an SEV: Surface Exploration Vehicle.

'76 Cherokee NT
360/T-18

Trailers belong behind trucks, not under them.

Why? Because nobody in the history of 'wheeling has ever said, "good thing I put those smaller tires on my rig."
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  #6  
Old 07-03-2012, 09:53 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern Gorilla
If you got everything new, what is coming up short? Do the evaporator and housing make that big a difference?

Noisy York compressor, big leaky inefficient under dash unit(housing), loud blower motor.
Cools fine.
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected


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  #7  
Old 07-03-2012, 10:03 PM
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Southern Gorilla Southern Gorilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Noisy York compressor, big leaky inefficient under dash unit(housing), loud blower motor.
Cools fine.
Hah! So it does the job but drives you insane. I'll have to remember that. I'm wanting to make the interior refined, maybe even luxurious. So noisy bits need to be avoided.
__________________
It's not an SUV. It's an SEV: Surface Exploration Vehicle.

'76 Cherokee NT
360/T-18

Trailers belong behind trucks, not under them.

Why? Because nobody in the history of 'wheeling has ever said, "good thing I put those smaller tires on my rig."
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  #8  
Old 07-03-2012, 10:51 PM
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FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
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When those your compressors cycle on, the idle speed drops about 50 RPM and it creates more vibration through the car than the entire running engine does. Driving on the highway the compressor makes the whole car surge when it first kicks on. has anyone ever placed something heavy in your hands while you are standing and you react with a surprised grunt of sudden exertion? It's kinda like that. You train yourself so when you feel the compressor cycle on, you give the engine a little more pedal, because if you don't, the vehicle will slow down a couple miles per hour.

If you are getting ready to pass someone on a rwo lane rural highway, you turn the A/C off to free up about 10 horsepower.

In stop and go city driving it is better to just turn it off, because without the extra flow through the condensor, it struggles at temperatures above 90.

On extremely hot days if the A/C hasn't been on in awhile, it is good to set the thermostat to maximum and cycle the compressor on to start cooling, but leave the blower turned off. This way the A/C system can cool the evaporator down before it cools the air. Otherwise, it takes a very long time for the A/C to produce cold air from trying to cool both air and evaporator at the same time.

It is very hard to cool down a hot vehicle, but once cooled down, the system works great to maintain it.

--This is in my barely insulated (stock) Wagoneer (big interior) with factory window tinting (barely functional). I'm sure later models do better. I flat out envy the J trucks with A/C. i bet it gets arctic cold in there very fast.

Those yorks do make alot of noise. On first starting up the system, they sound like a woodpecker going it's hardest at a tree trunk. Then later on it quiets down to barely audible with the hood down, other than the "tink.........chunk!" of the clutch cycling.
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1972 Custom Wagoneer:
AMC 360 MC2150, THM400, Dana 20, 3.31 gears.

1965 Rambler Ambassador 990:
AMC 327, Borg-Warner Auto.


1973 AMC Ambassador:
AMC 360 MC4300, TC-727.

Last edited by FSJunkie : 07-03-2012 at 10:54 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-04-2012, 06:21 AM
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mrtazwrench mrtazwrench is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern Gorilla
Was it just a matter of getting the big pieces from the junkyard and then having lines made to fit? What did you do for controls? I'm leaning towards the junkyard option just because it seems more my budget.

I believe I may solve the power issue by shopping in the right type of junkyard. Any A/C system that can cool the cab and bunk of a semi should be able to cool a Cherokee. That's assuming such a system could be made to fit.

I put in all used with new dryer and expansion valve, pre 86 have controls on the units.
__________________
Chad
Quote from Bubbles, on Trailer Park Boys...
"Let's see that red blue green **** sucker build one of these without duct taping it together!"
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3&l=76427b95fd
88 wag
87 J20
82 J20
Parts vehicles: 4 Wags, 4 J20's, 2 J10's, 2 J4K's
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  #10  
Old 07-04-2012, 10:31 AM
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TexasJ10 TexasJ10 is offline
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I tore all the original heater box and a/c stuff out of my j10 and went with the smallest vintage air in cab unit, the sanden compressor and the largest condensor i could fit in front of the radiator. Unfortunately there is hardly any room under the dash in these things and while it cools alright in a j truck, i doubt it would do the job in a wag. I like not having the huge heater box in the engine compartment but i am still looking for something better to put under the dash. While it would be more complicated to install, i think a junkyard rear unit would be the way to go in a wag along with the original under dash amc unit and a larger sanden or seltec compressor and upgraded condensor. I would also insulate the roof and tint the windows. It makes a big difference.
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* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
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  #11  
Old 07-04-2012, 12:04 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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What's the advantage of losing the heater box?

My J20 has a York compressor, but none of the under-dash AC stuff other than the evaporator hanging down. Thinking of an aftermarket replacement... Is the Sanden that much quieter/better? Maybe I'll use the York in the CJ-6 for OBA.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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  #12  
Old 07-04-2012, 02:08 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
What's the advantage of losing the heater box?

My J20 has a York compressor, but none of the under-dash AC stuff other than the evaporator hanging down. Thinking of an aftermarket replacement... Is the Sanden that much quieter/better? Maybe I'll use the York in the CJ-6 for OBA.

The Sanden is much quieter, and more efficient than the ancient York design.

Losing the heater box + aftermarket unit = dehumidified air when desired for uber-fast defogging of the windows.
Also allows better heat distribution in cold temps. vs. just floor/top dash vents.
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected


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  #13  
Old 07-04-2012, 04:07 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
The Sanden is much quieter, and more efficient than the ancient York design.

Losing the heater box + aftermarket unit = dehumidified air when desired for uber-fast defogging of the windows.
Also allows better heat distribution in cold temps. vs. just floor/top dash vents.

Any suppliers besides Nostalgic Air? Their selection of heat + AC units seems limited.

Found Vintage Air - others?
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, KOs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D

Last edited by tgreese : 07-04-2012 at 04:23 PM.
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  #14  
Old 07-04-2012, 04:50 PM
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Southern Gorilla Southern Gorilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
Any suppliers besides Nostalgic Air? Their selection of heat + AC units seems limited.

Found Vintage Air - others?
I've found a couple in my searching.

These folks seem to be more about tools and parts than complete systems.
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=01&Category_Co de=seltec

If I understand it right, this system has two evaporators to set up front and rear air like newer SUVs. http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...em-p-4292.html
__________________
It's not an SUV. It's an SEV: Surface Exploration Vehicle.

'76 Cherokee NT
360/T-18

Trailers belong behind trucks, not under them.

Why? Because nobody in the history of 'wheeling has ever said, "good thing I put those smaller tires on my rig."
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  #15  
Old 07-04-2012, 04:59 PM
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mrtazwrench mrtazwrench is offline
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Vintage Air is the one I hear the most about.
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Chad
Quote from Bubbles, on Trailer Park Boys...
"Let's see that red blue green **** sucker build one of these without duct taping it together!"
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3&l=76427b95fd
88 wag
87 J20
82 J20
Parts vehicles: 4 Wags, 4 J20's, 2 J10's, 2 J4K's
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  #16  
Old 07-04-2012, 05:40 PM
Mr Carts Mr Carts is offline
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Here is are kits for $495.00

http://www.ebay.com/sch/coolacstuff/m.html?hash=item3f198121bd&item=271010832829&pt=Vi ntage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&rt=nc&_t rksid=p4340.l2562
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  #17  
Old 07-04-2012, 10:16 PM
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TexasJ10 TexasJ10 is offline
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I think there is a place called hot rod air too. Most of the units are pretty similar in function and cost, but getting something that fits under/in the dash is limited.
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* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
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  #18  
Old 07-04-2012, 10:32 PM
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TexasJ10 TexasJ10 is offline
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Whoops! Hot rod air isn't around anymore.
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* 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
* 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
. NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
* 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed
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  #19  
Old 07-04-2012, 10:39 PM
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Southern Gorilla Southern Gorilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasJ10
Whoops! Hot rod air isn't around anymore.
I thought I remembered them from some time ago. Oh well.
__________________
It's not an SUV. It's an SEV: Surface Exploration Vehicle.

'76 Cherokee NT
360/T-18

Trailers belong behind trucks, not under them.

Why? Because nobody in the history of 'wheeling has ever said, "good thing I put those smaller tires on my rig."
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  #20  
Old 07-05-2012, 10:47 AM
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Carnuck Carnuck is offline
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I picked up a portable 110V AC unit and put it in the back seat with the exhaust out the back side window and run a power inverter.

I'm not alone (warning! Link may show some skin ads)
http://thethrottle.thechive.com/2011...e-26-pictures/
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MOVING SOON! Crusher alert!

Pics of parts for sale stuff: http://tinyurl.com/jimsclads


FOR SALE Honcho Sportside running project 360/T18A/NP208 $1200
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=163937
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