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  #1  
Old 04-28-2009, 04:39 PM
spark691 spark691 is offline
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Parking brake woes

Well, bit by bit the project progresses... Funny thing about these things, they seem to go from one minor headache to another, and just when you think you have one solved, a new one pops up!

Anyhow, the current set of woes is, per the title, with the parking brake. Getting the parking brake bracket back onto the parking brake cable in the rear drum to be specific. That d**m wire wrap/spring just will not give enough to get the bracket on... Any ideas? Is the wire wrap crucial to the working of the brake? Could some of it be cut off to provide more space to fit the bracket in? Thats the only thing I can seem to think of that might work... I dunno.

The other question also pertains to the e-brake system, namely, should you be able to pull slack through the system from the ends of the cables at the brake drums? I've let the parking brake cables come all the way off the equalizer, and still, no slack... is my cable frozen somewhere along the line?

Any help/pointers you guys can give me would be much appreciated... I'm ready to climb the wall here...

Thanks all!
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Old 04-28-2009, 05:03 PM
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mathman mathman is offline
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Not sure how much the brakes changed among models but - what vehicle do you have???
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2009, 05:27 PM
spark691 spark691 is offline
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We're working on an '86 Grand Wagoneer.
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Old 04-28-2009, 11:25 PM
spark691 spark691 is offline
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No ideas anybody?
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Old 04-28-2009, 11:39 PM
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lkmarsh lkmarsh is offline
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I'm not quite clear on whats going on. Are you saying the cable that goes through the backing plate won't move in it's sleeve? These cables do corrode in their sleeves, and since most people won't use the P brake, the wheel cables freeze up. Pictures might help. Just don't cut any springs yet. Other than this, do the brakes work alright?
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Old 04-29-2009, 12:09 AM
spark691 spark691 is offline
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*grins* sorry folks, I may not have been quite clear enough... The brakes are entirely dismantled (or at least the passenger rear is.) They are going to be rebuilt, with new shoes, new drums, and new hardware. Everything disassembled with no difficulty. I can take some pictures in the morning, but maybe I can pirate a pic I saw here on the site to help describe my problem for the time being.

I am trying to attach this bracket back onto this cable, which, as you can see from the picture is wire wrapped. (this isn't my jeep btw, this pic belongs to another site member -- hope its okay to use it!)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/53079777@N00/3484738621/

Now, in our case, the wire wrap is corroded and rather stiff, and after a day of trying without success to strong-arm it into compressing enough to mate the cable with the bracket, I am about ready to cut a length out of the wire wrap... is there any reason I shouldn't do this? Does the wrap provide back-pressure on the cable? If this is a totally unacceptable way to get fix the problem, then what is the best way to go about doing so?

Now, for part B:
One of our ideas was to loosen the parking brake cable under the truck at the equalizer... the thought being that if we were able to get some slack in the cable at the drum, then all our problems would go away. This of course, didn't work... which raises the question, does the fact that we couldn't pull slack through cable system indicate that the cable is fused to the casing somewhere along the line? Or is it normal for the system to be too stiff to allow slack to be seen at the ends of cables? (If this is still too vague I can try to get some pictures of what I mean tomorrow, but its rather late here on the east coast, so I am going to desist for the time being.)

Hope this helps clear some things up... many thanks for your patience!
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  #7  
Old 04-29-2009, 02:02 AM
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mathman mathman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spark691
I am trying to attach this bracket back onto this cable, which, as you can see from the picture is wire wrapped.

That's not "wire wrapped" that's a spring. It's designed to make sure the cable doesn't come off of that bracket in operation. Cutting it might cause a problem with it coming off, not to mention you lose the 'flat' on the end of the spring. Easiest way to hook that up is to disconnect the other end of that cable and pull the inner cable out far enough to install the cable in the lever. If the cable won't pull out with the other end disconnected you have additional problems and need to do some work on the cable.
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Old 04-29-2009, 06:42 AM
spark691 spark691 is offline
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Thanks mathman, glad I asked before going at the thing with a grinder!

I was worried that all might not be right with the parking brake... bummer. The brake system on this Jeep will be practically brand new by the time we're done here! I suspect the "needing to do some work on the cable" means replacing it, correct? Or is there a way to free parking brake cables? I suppose one other question should be asked... what is the best way to disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake drum? Does that little retaining clip just need to be snapped off so that one can pull the end of the cable through the slot in the brake back? Or is there more effective, less destructive way that I'm missing?

Last edited by spark691 : 04-29-2009 at 11:20 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-29-2009, 02:55 PM
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mathman mathman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spark691
I suspect the "needing to do some work on the cable" means replacing it, correct?

That would probably be the best long-term solution. I have sprayed some kind of penetrating liquid inside the housing and worked the cable in and out until it seemed to be free. Lot of work to get it 'clean' and works best if cable is off the vehicle first. If new cables are available I'd go with them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by spark691
I suppose one other question should be asked... what is the best way to disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake drum? Does that little retaining clip just need to be snapped off so that one can pull the end of the cable through the slot in the brake back? Or is there more effective, less destructive way that I'm missing?

You're probably missing something. I've seen three different mounting options. One is a C-clip type, similar to the small clip on the pivot point for the parking brake lever inside the drum. That style would be just spread apart until it can be removed. The second style is a spring clip on the end of the cable. Snap that off and the cable won't stay in the backing plate. That style can be removed with a pair of pliers around the cable to compress the end of the spring until it fits inside the hole through the braking plate. It then just pulls out. On reassembly just shove it back in the hole until the clip 'locks'. Of course, if you have a new cable, destroying the old one isn't a real concern. BUT, it would be better to not destroy it until you get it out and can match it to the new one to make sure they match. Nothing like thinking you have a new replacement and destroy the old one only to find out the new one is incorrect and the replacement to match your old one is unobtainable. The third one was just a press fit of the cable housing into the backing plate - that one was on my Datsun pickup so I doubt it applies here.
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  #10  
Old 04-29-2009, 07:48 PM
andy d andy d is offline
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Ive been lucky with the E brake cables. It is part of the gas tank coffin, frame rail boogy, a job that I am getting better at after doing it 4 times, I replace the brake line and free up the cable while I have the tank out.
If yur waggy is like mine, the various fluid leaks keep the front of the cables well lubed They tend to get sticky by the backing plates. I remove the cables from the backing plates, then I clamp a vise grip onto the clevis and yank. Usually the cable frees up and I lube it and pull it back and forth a few times.
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  #11  
Old 04-29-2009, 10:57 PM
spark691 spark691 is offline
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Well after much head scratching, a little "applied force" and the occasional bloodied knuckle, we got the first of the cables off the GW... yeah, this thing is shot... there are several places where it is so corroded/frozen that the cable and casing are more like an iron bar than two separate pieces... it wouldn't even flex in these places... looks like some replacements are in order.

Andy; yeah, removing the skidplate looks like its going to be a real treat... oh well, like you, we are going to be replacing the brake hardline at the same time as popping in a new e-brake cable, so hopefully we can finally get the back end of this bad boy buttoned up, and move onto the front brakes, and then finally the engine itself! (Which hopefully will need nothing more than a tune-up... *fingers crossed* )
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2009, 02:44 PM
spark691 spark691 is offline
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Alright, well, the new cables came in, 61 1/2 inches supposed to be a direct replacement on a 86 GW, the passenger rear drum was rebuilt with new parts, all is looking great... then I go to re-attach the the right side parking brake cable, and it looks to be about a foot too long... I checked and rechecked, and autopartswarehouse.com was definitely selling me replacement rear brake lines for an 86 GW... what shall I do here? Just find a way to take up the slack with a more circuitous path to the brakes? The biggest problem is that when the cables bend, it gets very difficult to pull any slack through them to get the rear cables re-attached to the middle cables... *sigh* I suppose if this were easy everyone would do it. Any ideas?
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