1963 J-200 SLOOOOOW Build

[63J200atLSU]

GOOD NEWS!

So I've got a fuel tank on the way, already have all the lines and a new sending unit that I guess the PO never got around to installing because the tank was bad... New valve cover gasket also on the way, should be able to curb some of the oil seepage out of the valve cover (also got the cam bed/valve cover lug ready for a helicoil fix on the front lug that's stripped out of the cam bed). Also installing new points and a new condensor to complete my ignition rejuvenation. Ran a full bottle of seafoam through the carb (my neighbors were having a crawfish boil at the time, they really loved that...) on Saturday, the ole 230's running pretty smooth now, although I have a minor timing and mixture issue to address.

The big news, and most of you will be happy to know this, is that my lady's brother informed me that he has a MIG welder that he's not currently using and is really just taking up space that I can pretty much use for the duration of this project. So Walter's headed into the garage and the front clip, fenders, and doors are all coming off and getting de-rusted. No rolling bondo container plans anymore, as of 3/7.

Brake lines. I'm assuming somebody on here, probably EVERYBODY on here has done these. I'm thinking the easiest thing to do would just be to buy the steel brake lines and bend them myself pretty much starting from the t between the front and back lines. PO included some pre-bent lines, and they match up with some rusty lines that are no longer on the truck, but don't seem to line up with any of the brake lines on the truck, one of which is broken (right where it comes back under the cab) and the rest are pretty bad. Any suggestions here? I'm really interested in being able to utilize the amazing stopping power of a 4-drum system...

You guys are saving my sanity by providing so much useful info, and probably saving my relationship by virtue of the fact that I haven't spent the savings account or burned the house down... Yet.

Pictures of the interior work coming soon.

Also, still looking for some vent window hinges/handles, both sides. Thought I'd found some, but can't get any responses outta some folks. Moving on...

[racegas]

Which chrome paint did you use on the grill?

[63J200atLSU]

rusto

Which chrome paint did you use on the grill?

Just used rustoleum (there's two different types of rustoleum chrome, one just says metallic finish, one has a picture of furniture/mirror frames on it... It's just metallic finish)

I took it down to the bare metal, then primed it with grey automotive filler/primer then sanded it down with 400 grit. I actually touched it before it was dry like an idiot, and now I've got to redo it, so I'm going to prime it, fine sand it, prime it again, sand it again, and THEN paint it, and not touch it for 24 hours. That should take care of any smaller marks on it.

Really, the trick with any kind of painting, besides the preparation, is the actual painting motion. Don't know how much you've done, but the basic rule is never start or stop spraying on the piece you're working on, or else you'll end up with runs. Thin layers are the way to go, build up really slowly, be patient, primer is always necessary, and if it doesn't look right, take it down again and start over. Good luck!

[toddthewelder]

That's good that you found a welder to use. If you need any tips using it check out weldingtipsandtricks.com he has a youtube channel and tons of videos

[63J200atLSU]

That's good that you found a welder to use. If you need any tips using it check out weldingtipsandtricks.com he has a youtube channel and tons of videos

Thought you'd appreciate that, Todd! And thanks for that, I'll absolutely be needing to practice a good bit before I melt my truck into a little rubble heap!

[63J200atLSU]

The truck stops!

Ran all new hard lines from the master cylinder to all four wheels. Figured if I was going to go through the trouble, might as well get em all. Also, the old master cylinder was locked up in the fully depressed position. Probably need to soak it in diesel for about a month and use another master cylinder to push it open so I can see what's what. For the time being though, my truck has brakes and I'm thrilled.



I realize my drive shaft is still flipped around... Haha...

[toddthewelder]

Slow progress is still progress. Mine has come to a complete halt waiting on back surgery

[63J200atLSU]

Slow progress is still progress. Mine has come to a complete halt waiting on back surgery

Yeah, I hear ya. I was just excited to get a chance to work on it over spring break. But seeing as now I don't have to push it in the driveway and I can stop it from running into things, I'm pretty happy. Good luck with your back surgery man, back stuff is the worst!

Question. I can find a large amount of the headlight switches around. I really also need the plug from the harness. Mine is ten kinds of twisted up. Any thoughts?

[toddthewelder]

Yeah, I hear ya. I was just excited to get a chance to work on it over spring break. But seeing as now I don't have to push it in the driveway and I can stop it from running into things, I'm pretty happy. Good luck with your back surgery man, back stuff is the worst!

Question. I can find a large amount of the headlight switches around. I really also need the plug from the harness. Mine is ten kinds of twisted up. Any thoughts?

Thanks, it's no fun at all. Chances are if anyone has one it will be in the same sad shape the one you have is, you may be better off making a new one. Can you take a picture of what you have, I'm not even sure I know what the ones in the early J-trucks look like.

[63J200atLSU]

Well... Poo.

So today, I ran a compression test on the engine, what I got back was saddening and perhaps explains why the engine hasn't exactly been running like the sewing machine I know it can be... The cylinder results are as follows.
1 - 175
2 - 175
3 - 30
4 - 170
5 - <5
6 - 150

So I have exactly one cylinder in what would normally be considered the acceptable range. Poured a little marvel mystery oil in 3 and 5 to try and diagnose the issue further, ran the compression test again with identical results, so that would generally rule out rings I suppose. I also took a long wooden skewer and put it through the 3 and 5 spark plug holes and turned the engine over by hand to see if the piston was even moving i.e. check that the connecting rod wasn't broken... Both were moving... Took the exhaust manifold off, from the exhaust ports, I could see that the #3 exhaust valve was black black black.

So now my question is this: if all the valves are moving freely, what are the chances that there is so much carbon buildup on the exhaust valves where they seat that it could cause the cylinder to lose all compression? Anybody have any thoughts on where to go with this?

Also, anybody have a good link for a 230 head gasket? It seems to be a discussion of debate over at m715zone as to wether the civilian and military 230 head gaskets are interchangeable...

[joe]

Also, anybody have a good link for a 230 head gasket? It seems to be a discussion of debate over at m715zone as to wether the civilian and military 230 head gaskets are interchangeable...

No links but I would try Kanters via phone. They have 'some' stuff for the Kaiser 230's...some. Otherwise I'd net search for some of the major gasket manufacturers an "call them" Often they make gaskets for motor A but not for B. The orig manufacturers 'may' still be making them for the S.AM or OZ market but since minimal US demand don't list it in the vendor books supplied to the US auto parts houses. You could try sourcing Kaiser 230 stuff on Latin American sites. The 230ohc and it's variations were used/sold a lot longer down there, specifically Argentina than they were here? I have no idea on the differences regarding the Civi or Mil versions of the 230 other than the motor mounts.
On a side note: yeah you got serious comp issues in at least a couple cyls. Head gaskets generally blow in one spot 'maybe' affecting two side by side cyls, so I doubt it's a head gasket issue. Have you done a wet comp check after the dry comp check? I'm not buying a bad head gasket can cause multiple cyl low compression but I'm NOT a mechanic. Any water in the oil, oil in the coolant issues? If not I'd guess not a head gasket issue...rather just an old lack of previous maint motor. Common back in the day for the OHC 230's to be run low on oil and the top end gets oil starved, in turn wiping out the cam and cam bed. Keep researching, diagnosing. measuring before just "click here/add to cart" shotgun maint. Save your money for fixing what's really wrong.
Welcome to the world of running/diagnosing/fixing/parts chasing a motor that hasn't been built in near 50 years. It's a very basic simple old school motor but there ARE rules even(especially) when buying a cheap project vehicle. Keep banging away diagnosing before breaking out ands lapping down the plastic.

edit: PS, how many miles on the motor?

[63J200atLSU]

Little update

Not a whole lot to report here, but thought I'd post some pictures as I take clean up the 230. Pulled the head on Monday (that is one heavy son of a b...) and nothing is obviously broken, cracked, bent, sticking or otherwise damaged. Looks like a couple of te cylinders are running rich or maybe have some oil that's leaked in somehow. I'll post more pics in the next couple days. As always, your thoughts and suggestions are welcome!

[63J200atLSU]

Sit rep

So finally got most of the things knocked off of the ole honey-do list, back to work on the truck yesterday... It is indeed two bent valves, presumably from when the engine jumped time at some point in the past, as I believe it was one tooth off for a long time. Found a set of all 6 NOS intake valves for $40 shipped, planning on getting this done later this week.

Also, anyone have any experience with getting a really REALLY stuck thermostat housing unstuck? Seems like someone in this truck's life got their JB Weld and Permatex mixed up somewhere along the line. It is SOLID... My only thought is to use a razor blade/box cutter and just kinda work my way in there a little bit at a time... Would welcome your suggestions though!

[toddthewelder]

Heat it up with your torch then bump it with a hammer, should come off.
You may have to do it a few times

[63J200atLSU]

All buttoned up and headlights oh my!

Just posting the progress, got the cylinder head all cleaned up, new valves and polished the seats, everything seems to check out. Currently waiting on an upper radiator hose. Apparently at some point the radiator had just water in it and rusted not only the thermostat but also the inner spring of said radiator hose. Twas ugly. Project of today was the headlights. Believe it or not, got this pair off of ebay. Apparently, they're for an RV, but that didn't bug me too much as I didn't even have to drill new holes and they came with bulbs and bezels for $39 shipped. If anyone is interested, I can find the seller on eBay and post a link.

Serehill is shipping me one of his harnesses to keep from melting all of my switches in the future and to get a brighter light from these guys. Cannot wait. Next up: floor pans. It's a good summer, friends.