Seatbelt Bolt Replacement

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  • Richie_Tenenbaum
    230 Tornado
    • Sep 15, 2017
    • 9

    Seatbelt Bolt Replacement

    I?m attempting to get the seatbelt bolts out on my 88 Grand Wagoneer. So far I have only managed to get the front driver side male bolt out.

    I don?t want to put the torx bolt back in.

    What do I buy instead? Where do I get it?

    In case you couldn?t tell, I?m not a car guy. This is a new project I?m getting in to
  • Paveland
    230 Tornado
    • Jun 17, 2018
    • 11

    #2
    Take the one you have out and take it to any home repair shop (Lowe?s, Home Depot, ACE) or a tractor supply and find a grade 5 or 8 bolt that is the same size and thread pitch. If you hav questions just ask someone that works there. Happy hunting.
    - 82 Cherokee, Ford 5.0, ZF-5, NP208, Dana 44, AMC 20 w/4:10 gears

    Comment

    • SJTD
      304 AMC
      • Apr 26, 2012
      • 1953

      #3
      Yeahbut, aren't they shouldered?
      Sic friatur crustulum

      '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

      Comment

      • asphaltrockdweller
        350 Buick
        • Jul 09, 2009
        • 1218

        #4
        Originally posted by SJTD
        Yeahbut, aren't they shouldered?
        Yes they are, and they are also a weird thread too.
        I would try a fastener type company, or (and I know a lot of people hate this thought) try team grand wagoneer.
        They used to sell the OEM bolt?

        BTW.
        I just got an order from Team Cherokee (same company), and everything shipped really fast. I found a bunch of NOS parts for my XJ there.
        (Ristow)fram!....that deserves a ratchet upside the head.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Paveland
          Take the one you have out and take it to any home repair shop (Lowe?s, Home Depot, ACE) or a tractor supply and find a grade 5 or 8 bolt that is the same size and thread pitch. If you hav questions just ask someone that works there. Happy hunting.
          I would never consider a grade 5 bolt for seatbelts, definitely at least a grade 8. Fastenal or the like should be able to get you a bolt. I'm pretty sure it's a standard thread pitch, just likely a fine thread. You can get flanged bolts in any pitch/tpi, but you may need to order them. As mentioned, just take your bolt in and match it up.


          aa
          1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

          Comment

          • threepiece
            350 Buick
            • Sep 17, 2005
            • 1433

            #6
            Seatbelt attaching screws are special. They are usually supplied by the manufacturer/supplier of the belt assembly. As far as I know both foreign and domestic makers use a 7/16"-20 thread, it is I think the only English thread found on late model cars and trucks.

            I might look at any vehicle in a salvage yard for a replacement. There are many different styles but all have the 7/16"-20 thread.
            FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
            We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
            We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
            Resistance is not futile yet.
            Are you and your children connected yet?

            Comment

            • Richie_Tenenbaum
              230 Tornado
              • Sep 15, 2017
              • 9

              #7
              I took 2 of the bolts into the local fastenal. He said he couldn't find anything like that because of the shoulder.

              He did say that it is a 7/16 20 thread bolt.

              What is the danger in buying a grade 8 7/16 20 thread bolt that is the same length as the original bolt?

              TeamGrandWagoneer does sell a bolt set but I don't really want to purchase torx head bolts unless I absolutely have to.

              Comment

              • SJTD
                304 AMC
                • Apr 26, 2012
                • 1953

                #8
                I see no problem with a standard bolt IF you put a spacer in there that functions as the shoulder. How else would you be able to torque it properly?

                You weren't going to just use a big washer and mash it down on the belt mount/carpet/pad were you?
                Sic friatur crustulum

                '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

                Comment

                • SOLSAKS
                  304 AMC
                  • Jul 25, 2016
                  • 1781

                  #9
                  i think the top of the OEM bolts are thicker
                  than any hex head bolt you can buy.

                  i would think that plays a part in their safety
                  as far as the mechanism/belt pulling out over the top of the bolt.

                  my motto is the engineers who designed the vehicle
                  know more than i do, so i usually do not change what they designed.
                  especially when it comes to seat belts.

                  if you are having trouble with the torx head
                  just clean threads well, and go slow.

                  if i can do it you can do it.

                  just my opinion, use factory bolts.
                  SOLSAKS - dave
                  1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
                  1982 J-10 Fleetside
                  1988 grand wagoneer
                  2004 RUBICON jeep
                  Benson, NC

                  Comment

                  • Richie_Tenenbaum
                    230 Tornado
                    • Sep 15, 2017
                    • 9

                    #10
                    Thanks.

                    I guess I'll go ahead and order the replacements from tgw.

                    I have no idea how I am going to get some of the stripped heads out.

                    I would really like to get all of my carpet out and clean up any rusted metal. These bolts are such a bear.

                    Comment

                    • SJTD
                      304 AMC
                      • Apr 26, 2012
                      • 1953

                      #11
                      One nice thing about Torx drive bolts is that you have a built in centered hole to line up the bit if you have to drill it out.

                      Use a small drill and with a little luck it'll loosen up.

                      How'd you strip the head?
                      Sic friatur crustulum

                      '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

                      Comment

                      • Richie_Tenenbaum
                        230 Tornado
                        • Sep 15, 2017
                        • 9

                        #12
                        I guess my T50 didn’t fit perfect and it rounded it out a little bit when I used a short cheater bar.

                        I shattered to torx heads

                        Comment

                        • TexasJ10
                          360 AMC
                          • Jan 03, 2002
                          • 2774

                          #13
                          I had problems getting mine out just like you are. I ended up twisting and breaking several torx bits. Those bolts are hard to drill as well. I ended up welding a nut on the top and using a hex socket. I guess the heat of welding and the long breaker baris the right combo.
                          * 1981 stepside, 360, 727, 208, almost stock daily driver.
                          * 1982 Laredo j-10, 360, 727, in rough shape and in the process of being rebuilt with 401, NV4500, Klune,
                          . NP205,d60 front, d70 rear, fender work and minimal lift. It will probably take 10 years
                          * 1973 jcab mounted on 1983 j20 frame. 360/t18/208 d44/d60. Almost completed

                          Comment

                          • asphaltrockdweller
                            350 Buick
                            • Jul 09, 2009
                            • 1218

                            #14
                            HEAT & PB BLASTER!

                            You have to remember most of those bolts stick down bellow your Jeep, and are filled with road grime and rust.
                            Use a torch, and heat the heck outta them first. If you can, get underneath your Jeep, and use a small steel brush on the threads before you try to loosen them. I just had to do this with my little XJ.
                            Yeah buy the set from TGW.
                            Good luck with them, but like I said I just got an order from them, and it was perfect. Have I had problems with them in the past 8 years...............
                            Once!
                            But they corrected it after a while.
                            It is more than I can say from lets just say................. Other beloved FSJ vendors.

                            OH!
                            P.S.

                            Go to Harbor Freight and buy a set of their impact 1/2" torx sockets.
                            It will make this job more manageable.
                            (Ristow)fram!....that deserves a ratchet upside the head.

                            Comment

                            • threepiece
                              350 Buick
                              • Sep 17, 2005
                              • 1433

                              #15
                              Originally posted by asphaltrockdweller
                              HEAT & PB BLASTER!

                              You have to remember most of those bolts stick down bellow your Jeep, and are filled with road grime and rust.
                              Use a torch, and heat the heck outta them first. If you can, get underneath your Jeep, and use a small steel brush on the threads before you try to loosen them. I just had to do this with my little XJ.

                              OH!
                              P.S.

                              Go to Harbor Freight and buy a set of their impact 1/2" torx sockets.
                              It will make this job more manageable.
                              Some good advice on removing those bolts here. I will add that heating a second time works even better. I usually heat one bolt or nut then heat a second one. After heating the second bolt I reheat the first one then attempt to turn it. Remember there is plastic and Nylon on the other side that can suffer heat damage!
                              I believe seat belt bolts are not actually Torx drive but something similar. I use a Snap-On tool I believe it is FTX500. It is much like Torx but the peak of the splines are flat as opposed to a radius of the Torx.
                              FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
                              We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
                              We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
                              Resistance is not futile yet.
                              Are you and your children connected yet?

                              Comment

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