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Old 03-21-2011, 06:07 PM
leostevo's Avatar
leostevo leostevo is offline
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Join Date: Jan 27, 2009
Location: Okaloosa County, FL
Posts: 322
Electric Fuel Pump Installation w/ relay

Well, I did this install a few months ago and was recently asked to do a write up. The following is a telling of how *I* did the install. This has not been endorsed by the product or auto manufacturers and I offer no guarantee that this is the best method of installation. This may very well cause your vehicle to inexplicably burst into flames setting into motion a series of events that will be the annihilatioin of the entire human race.

I just thought all of that should be said first. Use your own common sense, make alterations to these plans to better suit your needs and automobile. Ultimately, you are responsible for the installation and any resulting effects.

Parts Needed:
-Carter Rotary Vane Fuel Pump : PN GP4070 : $75.95
-Summit Racing Fuel Block Off Plate : SUM-402035 : $3.95
-Summit Racing Fuel Pump Relay : SUM-890023 : $24.95
-Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) Toggle Switch : $3.00-$5.00
-1 New Stock Fuel Filter
-1 New Fuel Filter w/ 1 inlet and 1 outlet
-Assorted Rubber Grommets
-Assorted Electrical Connectors
-~6ft rubber fuel line
-Heat Shrink Tubing w/ heat source

Tools you will need:
-Drill
-Assorted Metal Drill Bits
-Pliers/Crimping Tool
-Small Tubing Cutter
-Assorted Wrenches

Synopsis:
We will remove a section of the hard fuel line along the inside of the driver's side frame rail. This is where we will install the new pump, with a fuel filter between the fuel tank and new fuel pump. We will also wire in a 30amp relay with switched signals from the oil pressure switch and an always HOT source. We will also remove the manual fuel pump and block off the hole in the timing cover.

Process:
**Read and understand all of the instructions thoroughly.**

**Disconnect the battery, before doing any electrical work**

1. The fuel line is clamped to the inside of the driver's frame rail; loosen these clamps to free the fuel line. Using the tubing cutter (to prevent burring), cut and remove a section of metal fuel line between the tank and engine mount. I believe I removed a section about 3-4ft long. I installed a crimped section of fuel line on the cut ends to prevent dirt from getting into the fuel lines. This is where the common sense comes in. . . Remove only what you need to.

2. Now mock up a mounting position for the fuel pump. The pump comes with a 90* angle bracket with multiple holes for different mounting positions. I mounted mine on the inside of the frame rail just rear of the brake proportioning valve. *The pump must be mounted with the inlet/outlets at the top, as close to the tank as practical and below the fuel level. DO NOT MOUNT THE FUEL PUMP ON THE INNER FENDER.



3. When you decide on the mounting location, drill pilot holes for the self-tapping screws which were supplied with the pump. Mount the pump bracket with the grounding wire between the bracket and the frame rail. I think I stacked 1 or 2 flat washer between the frame rail and mounting bracket to give enough clearance for the rear brake line between the bracket and pump body.

4. Mount the fuel pump to the bracket with the supplied hardware, as per the instructions. Install the fuel inlet/outlet fittings.

5. Install the rubber fuel line with the 1-inlet/1-outlet filter prior to the fuel pump. This will save your fuel pump when your tank is tossing dirt toward the motor. Finish the plumbing of this section by running a rubber fuel line from the pump to the front cut on the metal fuel line.





6. Now follow the metal fuel line toward the front until it turns into the rubber line that feeds the manual fuel pump. Remove all of the hoses from that point forward. (rubber and metal lines connected to the fuel pump, including the return line from the fuel filter)

7. Remove the manual fuel pump and any gasket material remaining on the timing cover. *Be careful not to scratch the timing cover sealing surface*

8. Install the block off plate and new gasket. I purchased new, shorter, bolts to replace the manual fuel pump mounting bolts. I can't say that this was completely necessary but I didn't want to risk interference because of the thinner mounting depth.

9. Run new rubber fuel line to the top of the intake and install the new 1-inlet/2 outlet (stock style) fuel filter. Then run new rubber fuel line from the outlets on the fuel filter to the carburetor and to the metal fuel return line.

**NOW THE PLUMBING SHOULD BE COMPLETE**

10. Cut the gray ground wire to ~ 5" and crimp-on the grounding connector. Save the cut wire, we will use it later. Mount the relay on the driver's side inner fender, sandwiching the ground wire.



11. Run the purple wire to the positive fuel pump pigtail.

12. The yellow wire is the signal source. My instruction will differ from the relay instructions. For now, run the yellow wire thru the firewall into the cabin.

13. Run the red 10ga power wire toward the battery. I routed mine through the engine harness looming along the firewall. Install the 30amp breaker on the passenger's inner fender, near the battery. Make a connection from the relay to the circuit breaker, trimming any excess wire. Use the excess wire between the starter solenoid and the unused terminal of the circuit breaker.



14. The yellow wire in the cabin will be connected to center pin on the SPDT switch. Two connections remain, each will be sources to turn on the relay. For safety reasons, the primary source will be the oil pressure switch. To find the proper wire, either consult the wiring diagram for your model vehicle or perform the following test:
With the ignition in the on position, pull the harness off of the oil pressure switch and test each side for voltage. The side of the harness that does not have power will be the source for the switch. Tap into that wire and run it to one of the empty connectors on the SPDT switch. This is where the wire trimmed off in step 10 comes into play.
The other connection will come from any "Always On" 12V source. I used the hood light wire.
*Doing it this way ensure that both sources are fused. It also allows priming (for easier starts) and disabling the fuel pump (for security).



15. Use the rubber grommets to protect any wires that are running thru the firewall and use the heat shrink tubing to protect any exposed metal on the electrical wiring. Mount the switch where ever is convenient for you.

16. Plug the power and ground pigtails onto the top of the fuel pump.

17. Reconnect the battery and test both sides of the switch. Check for fuel leaks.

Now, enjoy!

-Steve

ps - This installation would work with any style electric fuel pump. Just adapt it for mounting your pump. Plumbing and wiring the relay would be identical.
__________________
1990 Grand Wagoneer "Daddy Wagon"

AMC360/TF727/NP229

Edelbrock Performer Intake, Headers, Cam, 1406 Carb, Mallory HEI. No smog. Rusty's 4" all springs. '89 GW wheels, custom painted and wrapped in Maxxis Big Horn 31x10.50, dual 2.25" exhaust outside the frame rails.

Last edited by leostevo : 03-21-2011 at 06:11 PM.
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